Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a vibration issue but I'm not sure it's the same as A lot of people on this thread have.

 

First I will list my specs and then my problem.

 

Truck: 2016 GMC SLT Crewcab 4x4

Motor and Trans: 6.2L w/8 speed, Max Trailering with the 3.42 rear gear

Modifications: Rough Country 2" front leveling, 3" rear block, 275/65 20 BFG TKO's on stock rims

 

My Issue: I have a vibration that starts at around 51mph and then peaks at 54-55mph and stops around 59mph. Here is where I think my vibration might be different than a lot of other people in this thread. Mine seems to get worse when applying light throttle and it gets better when I coast or put the truck int neutral while I'm in the speed range of the vibration. I have had my tires balanced 4 times and the last 2 were road force balanced. Given the fact that my vibration can be altered by throttle/acceleration I'm beginning to believe that my issue might be my torque converter.

 

Has anyone had an issue similar to what I am experiencing?

 

Also, are there common variables for trucks with vibration issues? Are they all 5.3's or 6.2's or both or do they all have 6 speed or 8 speed transmissions or some other group of common factors?

Posted

Hey guys, I too am highly annoyed with the vibrations in my truck and have been scouring the web looking for answers. Sadly I don't know the cause of these high speed vibrations but I saw something today that caught my eye. I'm driving my girls chevy cruise (low vantage point) going about 75-80mph and I'm driving alongside a 2014 or 2015 CC Silverado Z71 (stock wheels and tires). I look over at the rear wheel and that son of a bitch was oscillating laterally (front to back). Bad enough for me to see it with the naked eye. I immediately look at his front wheel to make sure I wasn't seeing things and the front wheel was spinning normal in place. I would estimate that the oscillation was about an inch or so in either direction. I don't know if this is a result of faulty leaf springs or what. but maybe me saying something will trigger you guys to have your trucks looked at from another vehicle, at speed, to see if this is a common occurrence with everyone that has vibration issues. Then maybe a solution can be figured out for this stupid issue.

 

My main vibration complaint is at 30mph. for whatever reason my truck shakes in between 25-30mph ONLY on acceleration.

 

Any help on that would be greatly appreciated lol

  • Like 1
Posted

It really depends on the speed I can feel it at every speed but its most noticeable above 68 MPH. After 70 is where it shifts from being more in the steering wheel to the seat and center console to about 75 then it goes back to the steering wheel and pedals and kind of back and fourth between the 2 locations depending on the speed. The vibration is also the least noticeable when the fuel tank is either almost empty or completely full after filling up. It's like the fuel in the tank is doing to same thing as the water bottle in the cup holder.

 

Have you had the steering "thrust" bearings replaced?

Posted

Just wanted to add my experience to the list. I had a 2014 Silverado 1500 with vibrations issues, after 2 years and new tires they were mostly gone. I thought it was a fluke, and at the end of the day having to buy new tires for a leased truck with 20k miles.... sucked. I replaced it with a 2016, which ended up having much more significant vibration. If I had seen this thread I would never have leased another, but I didn't. I live in an area with horrible roads, so can't really test for vibration without driving about 30 miles to find a smooth stretch of interstate. In the past, I never owned a vehicle that couldn't be balanced.

 

So here's my story.

 

I'm in Florida, and have the wheels road force balanced at Discount Tire after my first shaky trip from Michigan, did not work. Truck has been shaking since day 1.

 

Back in Michigan, ask dealer for a road force balance, they do a spin balance and charge me for it. Does not work, and I call them and tell me so.

 

200 miles later, I'm back at the dealer and they do a road force balance, and charge me AGAIN. I call them on it, and they credit me for the spin balance. Does not work.

 

I contact GM corporate, and they have me bring the truck back in, spend a week with it, and tell me that 2 of my tires are bad and have to be replaced and that one of my wheels has a "flat spot" that somehow is my fault, and they offer to sell me 2 tires and a wheel for about $1000. I decline, feeling that since the problem has been there since new, it should be their responsibility, and also fearing that it won't help.

 

After this unsuccessful episode, I contact GM again by email and get no response.

 

So I have given up, and will live with the shaking for the remaining 2 years, 22k miles on the lease, turn the truck in, and will not buy another GM product again.

 

Disappointed.

Look on the bright side, at least you and a few others on here are only in leases. A lot of us have bought these pieces of $hit.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey guys, I too am highly annoyed with the vibrations in my truck and have been scouring the web looking for answers. Sadly I don't know the cause of these high speed vibrations but I saw something today that caught my eye. I'm driving my girls chevy cruise (low vantage point) going about 75-80mph and I'm driving alongside a 2014 or 2015 CC Silverado Z71 (stock wheels and tires). I look over at the rear wheel and that son of a bitch was oscillating laterally (front to back). Bad enough for me to see it with the naked eye. I immediately look at his front wheel to make sure I wasn't seeing things and the front wheel was spinning normal in place. I would estimate that the oscillation was about an inch or so in either direction. I don't know if this is a result of faulty leaf springs or what. but maybe me saying something will trigger you guys to have your trucks looked at from another vehicle, at speed, to see if this is a common occurrence with everyone that has vibration issues. Then maybe a solution can be figured out for this stupid issue.

 

My main vibration complaint is at 30mph. for whatever reason my truck shakes in between 25-30mph ONLY on acceleration.

 

Any help on that would be greatly appreciated lol

Vibrations at these speeds are typically linked back to out of spec ring and pinions. More specifically a pitch line run out issue on the ring gear. Too much variation on the back lash between the pinion teeth and ring gear teeth this is why you feel it during acceleration. Thanks for the info on the rear, I have been considering trying some lateral track bars on the rear this would definitely take care of front to rear movement now to convince someone to drive next to me at 80 mph and see if the wheels are moving front to rear before investing in some track bars.

Posted

 

Have you had the steering "thrust" bearings replaced?

Nope haven't had anything changed in the steering, Is this something you have done?. I've read posts of people having a new improved steering bushing design installed which didn't help.

Posted

 

Have you had the steering "thrust" bearings replaced?

Here's something I noticed just recently though. My neighborhood is at the end of dead end street and everything just got repaved perfectly smooth and very little traffic. I let the truck idle in drive for a good 1/8th mile we are talking like 3 mph or so. There's a rough spot in something that is turning. Rough enough it'll shake water in a water bottle in the cup holder. Feels like a bad spot in a bearing. Problem is everything feels fine on the jack stands and spins smooth, if its a wheel bearing it's like it needs the weight of the truck on it before it becomes noticeable. If its somewhere in the drive train its like it needs a load to work against. Whatever it is I'm sure it will continually get worse until it fails then I'll know for sure whats causing it. Not sure i'll keep the truck long enough to find out I drive about 30 miles a day at speeds above 70, after 2 years I'm pretty tired of wasting time and money trying to fix it and making payments on a truck that I hate driving.

  • Like 2
Posted

Here's something I noticed just recently though. My neighborhood is at the end of dead end street and everything just got repaved perfectly smooth and very little traffic. I let the truck idle in drive for a good 1/8th mile we are talking like 3 mph or so. There's a rough spot in something that is turning. Rough enough it'll shake water in a water bottle in the cup holder. Feels like a bad spot in a bearing. Problem is everything feels fine on the jack stands and spins smooth, if its a wheel bearing it's like it needs the weight of the truck on it before it becomes noticeable. If its somewhere in the drive train its like it needs a load to work against. Whatever it is I'm sure it will continually get worse until it fails then I'll know for sure whats causing it. Not sure i'll keep the truck long enough to find out I drive about 30 miles a day at speeds above 70, after 2 years I'm pretty tired of wasting time and money trying to fix it and making payments on a truck that I hate driving.

 

I agree with the bad bearing scenario somewhere. I have replaced my front wheel bearings already with no difference to mention. It must be in the transmission somewhere which means $$$$ and no fix. I drive 110 miles a day to work and have surpassed 65k miles and while it does seem to be getting worse, I'm not sure anything is going to fail if it hasn't already. My truck just feels like I'm driving a truck with 200k + miles on it and like you, it literally sets me into a terrible mood everyday mostly because GM tells me that its supposed to drive like an embarrassing POS.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm probably going to sell my truck and drive a beater until further notice. Can't justify being unhappy for this much money every month.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

 

I agree with the bad bearing scenario somewhere. I have replaced my front wheel bearings already with no difference to mention. It must be in the transmission somewhere which means $$$$ and no fix. I drive 110 miles a day to work and have surpassed 65k miles and while it does seem to be getting worse, I'm not sure anything is going to fail if it hasn't already. My truck just feels like I'm driving a truck with 200k + miles on it and like you, it literally sets me into a terrible mood everyday mostly because GM tells me that its supposed to drive like an embarrassing POS.

 

I was thinking trans too, so I started to watch and take notes. The other day the truck was cold, trans temp at 20c. The shake was present with the trans cold as soon as I pulled onto the highway and hit 110kph (65mph), when the trans got up to its 75-88c operating temp, I did another highway run with no (bad) shake. The next day when the trans was cold, it was smooth, then when the trans was at OP temperature, the truck shook violently at 65mph. In my particular case, trans warm up or temperature had no play on the vibration. It does it with a warm or cold trans., at random when ever it feels like it. Not ruling out the trans, but to me a bad TC would produce the same symptom every time regardless.

Edited by L86 All Terrain
Posted

Nope haven't had anything changed in the steering, Is this something you have done?. I've read posts of people having a new improved steering bushing design installed which didn't help.

 

Negative I have not had it done yet, just trying to check issues off the list.

Posted

Ok people was reading the complaints today and just one poster hit the nail on the head !!!!!!! Pay attention people look at the transmission , I talked to a local repair man and he agreed there should be a balancing shaft in the trany somewhere [ computer controlled to boot ] , has to be ! One day my Silverado was shaking so I stopped and put in 4 wheel drive automic then took off and then switched back to 2 wheel drive and no shake ! Now this only fixed the shake for a few days but it did work for me !

I traded the junker off last week for a Toyota Prius four touring and man what a car , 188 miles and 55.4 MPG

 

 

OOOOPS

 

Almost forgot this is farml1234 as I have been banded from posting here and other investor message boards by the GM a$$holes

 

Good luck people I do feel sorry for you , as for me I took the easy way out

Posted

Almost forgot I golf with a guy that had a 2014 GMC , the shaking was not that bad but he bailed for a Honda car ! Do not think he will ever drive GM again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...