Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

I'm probably going to sell my truck and drive a beater until further notice. Can't justify being unhappy for this much money every month.

Go find a decent priced GMT-800 or even the 95-99 Silverado/Sierra Z71s!

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Sir Dan Enthusiast

Sir Dan

Posted
Posted

Guys trading their trucks for econoboxes is all well and good but what's a guy that needs a truck to do. Chevy shakes, Ford goes "ecoboom", Tundras are ugly, plastic-ey and ride like sh!t, and Dodge is junk all the way around.

  • Like 1
Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

Guys trading their trucks for econoboxes is all well and good but what's a guy that needs a truck to do. Chevy shakes, Ford goes "ecoboom", Tundras are ugly, plastic-ey and ride like sh!t, and Dodge is junk all the way around.

Trading away a headache. I have a 8 yr old Altima that the dealership treats like new. I tell them it's not doing A, and they come back with BCD if applicable. And that's with an extended warranty not purchased from them.

The issue is with trucks that are 3 years old or less. Most under warranty from GM.

I would want happy-ish repeat customers. Even if I miss on the product from time to time, at least they'd know I wanted their business due to a good service experience.

Gofas Enthusiast

Gofas

Posted
Posted

At 29k I put some Mickey Thompson deegan all -terrains on 265/65/18 p-metric.. Drove home on many types of highway surfaces and got the shake at 70. It's the same as before just magnified . I really understand now that I have a shakarado!

Only les Schwab in town seems to be able to tame the shake somewhat with balancing. My old sr-a's i spent 50$ a pop to balance, at least 3

Visits.

. I noticed one thing, 4wheelpRts used clip on weights when les Schwab uses sticky weights. One better than other?

These tires have some back bone to compared to sr-A's, no more quivering like a dog at low speeds on rough surfaces. I am relieved about that. But at High speed no good!

I'm going to see if les schwab can help!

The only reason I went to les schwab is that Ken flower gmc says they don't balance tires! How can you be an automotive dealer and not balance a tire?

I learned you can't just rotate my tires with out a balance or the truck drives like IT!

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Guys trading their trucks for econoboxes is all well and good but what's a guy that needs a truck to do. Chevy shakes, Ford goes "ecoboom", Tundras are ugly, plastic-ey and ride like sh!t, and Dodge is junk all the way around.

Well, you can still get a 5.0 non turbo V8 on a Ford F150 and F250s and up come with the 6.2 liter non turbo V8 standard. And why are Dodge Ram trucks junk? What about the new Nissan Titan?

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's not for the consumer to figure out. Going on 3 years solid and not much hope in sight. Trade out when it makes sense financially.

I really do not know when it makes sense to trade a vehicle anymore. It seems that no matter what you trade in, no matter how good it looks, dealers nowadays will try to steal your trade, even if they sell you a new vehicle at an attractive price. I am old enough to remember that if you traded a car or truck in 1980s and early 1990's dealers were content to make a $ 1000 profit on your trade and they assessed it accordingly. Today they expect to make a $ 4000 to $ 5000 profit (or simply put as much as they can) on your trade and they low ball you insolently on everything you try to trade in. It has gotten so bad that even Kelly Blue book seems to be rigged to maximize dealer profits. Just look at the difference between dealer retail and trade in value! And the same goes for motorcycles and other vehicles. i was absolutely stunned how little several dealerships offered me for a showroom condition 2009 Kawasaki Concours with 6500 miles!

It seems that if you have a vehicle that you like driving and it does not cause you much grief, hold on to it until it is worth no more than couple thousand dollars or so and then donate it to charity.

Edited by pm26
  • Like 1
DLS-001 Enthusiast

DLS-001

Posted
Posted

Well, I'm out.

 

Traded the GMC in on a new truck and I am very happy about it.

 

Good luck guys - I really, really, really hope we do end up finding a solution...

  • Like 1
Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

I'm working on something new that a local shop found on our trucks. If it works, I'll share the part # and what they did to fix it.

  • Like 3
Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted

Well, I'm out.

 

Traded the GMC in on a new truck and I am very happy about it.

 

Good luck guys - I really, really, really hope we do end up finding a solution...

 

Well??? What did you get?

 

I traded out almost 2 years ago and couldn't be happier...but I keep coming back here checking on this thread in hopes that you guys can find a solution. I know how infuriating and frustrating it can be.

lylknutsak Enthusiast

lylknutsak

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wish I had seen this thread while researching my recent purchase.

 

Bought a 2015 GMC Sierra single cab 2WD 6.5' bed with the 4.3L and 3.23 rear end. Didn't notice the vibration driving around at 45 - 50 MPH test driving. After getting on the highway I noticed the vibration in the rear of the truck. At first I thought maybe it was just the short wheelbase being rough on rough roads. Tried different roads with the same results. It's at it's worst around 75-80 MPH. I did notice that the vibration improves when turning even just slightly. The truck is still under warranty with 23,000 miles and I'm in a loaner with the dealer promising to fix the vehicle.

 

After skimming through this post I did not see that GM ever had a fix or did I miss something?

Edited by lylknutsak
Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

I really do not know when it makes sense to trade a vehicle anymore. It seems that no matter what you trade in, no matter how good it looks, dealers nowadays will try to steal your trade, even if they sell you a new vehicle at an attractive price. I am old enough to remember that if you traded a car or truck in 1980s and early 1990's dealers were content to make a $ 1000 profit on your trade and they assessed it accordingly. Today they expect to make a $ 4000 to $ 5000 profit (or simply put as much as they can) on your trade and they low ball you insolently on everything you try to trade in. It has gotten so bad that even Kelly Blue book seems to be rigged to maximize dealer profits. Just look at the difference between dealer retail and trade in value! And the same goes for motorcycles and other vehicles. i was absolutely stunned how little several dealerships offered me for a showroom condition 2009 Kawasaki Concours with 6500 miles!

It seems that if you have a vehicle that you like driving and it does not cause you much grief, hold on to it until it is worth no more than couple thousand dollars or so and then donate it to charity.

 

Well, presumably you approached the dealer about buying a truck and not the other way around. About doing a trade-in, same logic. No one forces you to do a trade-in. You could sell your truck yourself. I think it's useful to keep in mind that buying and selling vehicles is where the art of horse trading now resides. Personally, I enjoy the horse trading aspect of buying and selling. There's a couple of things to be mindful of to make it fun. First, do your homework and know what your current vehicle is worth; that would be wholesale not retail. Also, keep in mind that the dealer is not in love with your old beater like you are. Second, know what the dealers bottom line most likely is. Keep in mind that he has to make a profit too. So, don't try to beat him to a pulp. Third and last, there's lots of car dealerships so don't fall in love with the vehicle you're considering and don't be afraid to walk away if you don't believe you're getting a fair shake. If your offer is close to what he can accept its likely he catch you before you get to the door and accept your offer .

 

Personally, I'm beginning to favor the idea of buying an old truck and refurbishing it. I'm thinking a pre 1970 model would be smart as that's about when manufacturers started to convert to solid-state ignition technology. If I go this route I'll at least have a driver that will survive an EMP blast should Little Kim decide to do something really stupid ...

  • Like 1
Brianskeet Enthusiast

Brianskeet

Posted
Posted

I really do not know when it makes sense to trade a vehicle anymore. It seems that no matter what you trade in, no matter how good it looks, dealers nowadays will try to steal your trade, even if they sell you a new vehicle at an attractive price. I am old enough to remember that if you traded a car or truck in 1980s and early 1990's dealers were content to make a $ 1000 profit on your trade and they assessed it accordingly. Today they expect to make a $ 4000 to $ 5000 profit (or simply put as much as they can) on your trade and they low ball you insolently on everything you try to trade in. It has gotten so bad that even Kelly Blue book seems to be rigged to maximize dealer profits. Just look at the difference between dealer retail and trade in value! And the same goes for motorcycles and other vehicles. i was absolutely stunned how little several dealerships offered me for a showroom condition 2009 Kawasaki Concours with 6500 miles!

It seems that if you have a vehicle that you like driving and it does not cause you much grief, hold on to it until it is worth no more than couple thousand dollars or so and then donate it to charity.

Blue book now is not the blue book it was years ago. It used to be a good guide, but now it is heavily influenced by manufacturers. Same for consumer reports as well; not nearly as trustworthy as they were in the past.

Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted (edited)

As discussed in a previous post. I went to my local 4WP and they told me about an issue they came across. Apparently on the 2WD trucks, the Automatic Transmission Extension Housings is damaged or not properly installed from the factory. The seal leaks (transmission fluid) and/or wears out prematurely and this causes .... wait for it ... our dreaded shake with the 2WD trucks. Definitely something fishy with the transmission and drive shaft. This has worked so far on a GMC and Chevy. The part number is ACDELCO 24224676. $75 for the part plus labor. Did it fix my shake? About 80% there. I can now get up to 90 MPH without the console throwing itself violently. Unfortunately the shudder between 30 and 55 MPH persists. I still have wheel hop, so that is probably attributed to the crap axles and the trash leaf springs. Good luck YMMV.

Edited by Severado
  • Like 2
rhino68 Enthusiast

rhino68

Posted
Posted

I gave up on troubleshooting my truck. My vibration has never been as bad as I've seen some post in here. I'm done throwing parts at it and just going to live with it. I hope the 2019s or new body style will be fixed.

Boostholic Enthusiast

Boostholic

Posted
Posted

As discussed in a previous post. I went to my local 4WP and they told me about an issue they came across. Apparently on the 2WD trucks, the Automatic Transmission Extension Housings is damaged or not properly installed from the factory. The seal leaks (transmission fluid) and/or wears out prematurely and this causes .... wait for it ... our dreaded shake with the 2WD trucks. Definitely something fishy with the transmission and drive shaft. This has worked so far on a GMC and Chevy. The part number is ACDELCO 24224676. $75 for the part plus labor. Did it fix my shake? About 80% there. I can now get up to 90 MPH without the console throwing itself violently. Unfortunately the shudder between 30 and 55 MPH persists. I still have wheel hop, so that is probably attributed to the crap axles and the trash leaf springs. Good luck YMMV.

 

what about 4wd ? same problem ?

 

the problem with this vibration is an expensive fix to recall and apparently not life threatening or causing damage beyond uncomfortable ride

 

it may be expansive due to time or labor or parts no one can tell but GM .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...