Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

But softail, you already solved the mystery. It's a drive shaft issue and if everyone just listens to you and has their shaft trued then they won't have anymore vibration. Right ? So why so grumpy lol

  • Like 4
Posted

Post #10240 has links about headlights of another brand of truck. This is a GM forum and the thread is about Shake and Vibrations.

 

RT

 

And here I thought we were all friends and were just trying to help one another.... Shame that people can't help people with other brands.

 

But softail, you already solved the mystery. It's a drive shaft issue and if everyone just listens to you and has their shaft trued then they won't have anymore vibration. Right ? So why so grumpy lol

Posted

Trust me, I was too until this. Been driving GM since the late 70's. Once this happened I want from a Silverado and a Corvette in my garage to a Tundra and an Aston. I'll never go back.

Posted

I just replaced both rear axles with Yukon axles and took it for a test drive on the interstate for about 45 minutes. I set the cruise at 82 mph and that's where it use to shake the worst. I don't want to say the wobble is 100% gone just yet bc it felt like it was there sometimes and I don't know if I'm just super sensitive to it now. It defiantly is smoother at highway speeds after the axle replacement. I will update the issue later after I take an extended trip on the highway.

Posted

So... long story short, picoscope showed a vibration in the speed and rpm range i told them, about 35-50 and 3 weights were added to the driveshaft.... seems to have improved the ride, but after driving the same roads in a 2012 Impala 2017 Silverado crew cab and the wife's 15 Sonic, I am apt to think all the roads here in eastern NC have a certain harmonic on vehicles in the 35-50mph range, unless all 4 vehicles had terrible balance and beatup suspension...

 

I would say my vibration has eased to the point that I am not unhappy with my purchase any longer. I would like to change the rough country shocks to bilsteins though. The truck with a 6" lift and 35" Nitto exograpplers rides very very smooth according to all my passengers as well.

 

And the service department was actually very proactive, just took a lot of unnecessary prodding from myself and the wife. Once they started getting the daily 3pm phone call from one or the other, the ball rolled.

Posted

Been reading through this forum the last couple days to see what others have tried. I have a 2016 Crew 4WD Z71 that shakes really bad at 65-80MPH. I have been working with my dealer and another dealer in a nearby town and they have not been able to fix the shaking. Both dealers insist that it is normal for full size trucks to have some "vibrations at higher speeds" which is just BS. I have owned/ridden in several full size 4D 4wd trucks that ride butter smooth at all speeds on good roads.

 

After 7 dealer visits and being with out my truck for a total of 40 days I am giving up on GM fixing this or making it right. During this time I have driven 6 other trucks that had at least some shaking with 2 of them being as bad as mine. I will never buy another GM product, period.

 

Both dealers have refused to change anything other than tires/wheels. I am on my third complete set of tires/wheels and a few one offs (15 total different tires) that the dealer swapped out. None of those changes made any difference at all. I currently have 20" KMC XD wheels with 285/60 Toyo Open Country tires.

 

Before giving up I would like to start trying some NON OEM replacement parts and would like any advice on what others have used either to correct this problem or just in general.

 

Going to start with driveshaft but not sure where to get one from as there isn't any place local that makes them.

Torque converter?

axles?

rear end?

Do plan to swap out the shocks with Bilstein 5100 shocks. I did have a rough country level kit added but that had no impact on the shaking. I guess it could be removed with the Ride-Height Adjustable Shocks?

 

I am considering a 6" lift but need to fix the shaking first because in the end I will need to trade this off for something else rather soon.

 

I am willing to do about anything to fix it. I don't have a shop or lots of equipment so will need to find someone local that will do some of the work for me.

 

One last thing, the shaking is extreme when pulling a loaded trailer. ATVs or boat...

Posted

Been reading through this forum the last couple days to see what others have tried. I have a 2016 Crew 4WD Z71 that shakes really bad at 65-80MPH. I have been working with my dealer and another dealer in a nearby town and they have not been able to fix the shaking. Both dealers insist that it is normal for full size trucks to have some "vibrations at higher speeds" which is just BS. I have owned/ridden in several full size 4D 4wd trucks that ride butter smooth at all speeds on good roads.

 

After 7 dealer visits and being with out my truck for a total of 40 days I am giving up on GM fixing this or making it right. During this time I have driven 6 other trucks that had at least some shaking with 2 of them being as bad as mine. I will never buy another GM product, period.

 

Both dealers have refused to change anything other than tires/wheels. I am on my third complete set of tires/wheels and a few one offs (15 total different tires) that the dealer swapped out. None of those changes made any difference at all. I currently have 20" KMC XD wheels with 285/60 Toyo Open Country tires.

 

Before giving up I would like to start trying some NON OEM replacement parts and would like any advice on what others have used either to correct this problem or just in general.

 

Going to start with driveshaft but not sure where to get one from as there isn't any place local that makes them.

Torque converter?

axles?

rear end?

Do plan to swap out the shocks with Bilstein 5100 shocks. I did have a rough country level kit added but that had no impact on the shaking. I guess it could be removed with the Ride-Height Adjustable Shocks?

 

I am considering a 6" lift but need to fix the shaking first because in the end I will need to trade this off for something else rather soon.

 

I am willing to do about anything to fix it. I don't have a shop or lots of equipment so will need to find someone local that will do some of the work for me.

 

One last thing, the shaking is extreme when pulling a loaded trailer. ATVs or boat...

 

I just replaced both rear axles with Yukons. It didn't shake when i went for a test drive after i installed them. I'll give a better update whenever I go for an extended drive on the interstate

Posted

 

I just replaced both rear axles with Yukons. It didn't shake when i went for a test drive after i installed them. I'll give a better update whenever I go for an extended drive on the interstate

New axles? What year?

Posted

I had the very same issue as the original OP the dealer told me wheels and replaced all 4 rims that didn't fix it then I replaced all 4 tires that didn't fix it, alignments, among services among services at multiple dealers and no body could figure it out and then my transmission pump finished going out turns out that was the problem the whole time and that's why this shaking only happens when accelerating, I happened to be on expressway so of course the transmission was destroyed in my truck the dealer replaced it with a new one, and I was told by several service guys this seems to be an ongoing problem with these pumps.. so I hope this helps some others because it was a huge headache for me.. let me know if you have any questions it hasn't done it again since the new tranny was installed

Posted

It's hard to believe that a billion dollar company with unlimited engineering resources can't (or won't) figure out what their flagship truck's vibration problem is. They either know and don't want to have a recall or publish TSB's for a couple million trucks,or they would rather piss around handling the problems individually hoping that a customer will just tire of it all, or have the occasional buy-back, have the customer get the same issues with his new buy-back.

 

To a large degree the dealer's hands are tied because they just can't spend money on GM's engineering problems without getting reimbursed for their warranty work. For everyone that posts here about the issue there are 10 more out there that that don't.

 

We can send people to the moon, build multi-billion dollar aircraft carriers, supply 20 million dollar golden parachutes to retiring or fired GM execs, and GM can't or won't fix the flagship vehicle's vibration complaints.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...