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Posted

Wrong area for 2007 truck repairs but sounds like all you need is to replace the fouled spark plug. I could have driven mine for a very long time after it did this but it just did not make me smile in the mornings to go out and fire it up and drive it. Just go ahead and trade it on a 2014 if you have some spare change and stop fooling around with an OLD WORN out piece of crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My bad for posting here.

 

Anyway, I did change the plug and wire. The coil and fuel injector is good too.

 

It's sad that we have to consider a truck that ran VERY good up til now with only 69,000 miles an old worn out piece of crap. LOL!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Mine started breaking at 38k miles so don't feel bad. Had brake issues right off the lot at 50 MILES!! Welcome to 21st century auto making! I'm at 66k miles, and I have a set of Moog upper control arms, and hub bearings I'll be installing once spring ever gets here.

 

Who can blame GM for wanting you to trade it in at 60k miles? They're making money hand over fist off customers who couldn't care less if their $50k truck leaves them on the side of the road on the way to work ..... :crackup:

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

An update on my truck: I took her in and told the guy I thought it was the throttle position sensor and that I knew there was a bulletin out about it. He said it sounded like that was it but would check it all out and call me if it was anything else. He called an hour and a half later and told me my truck was done! All fixed, it was the TPS and it was all covered. So now I have her back and she is running wonderfully!!!

 

Yes, like me my truck is a girl.

Posted (edited)

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You da man oops I meant da GIRL. Glad you got it fixed I liked my 2009 Sierra SLT CC SB Z71 4x4 5.3 3.42 18" wheels but after the dealership scattered pieces including the transmission all over there shop I was done with it. I am sure it would have gone 2 or 300k more miles but when I drove a new one I wanted one. Now arwiltsey I like this little 2014 but it does cost some coin so you might have to cut short some of you mall shopping trips if you buy one haha.

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Edited by MyFavTruck
Posted

I have the same issue. Mine is an 05 GMC sierra quad cab 5.3 It presently has 315,000. Last summer the air would blow heat. I would turn the truck off and restart either going down the road or at red light and would work fine. Then a few weeks later under heavy acceleration the whole thing shuts down and reduced engine power. I recognized if I turn the truck off let sit for a few the service engine light comes on and if I just drive it normal it will eventually go off as well. I have now started dealing with lifter noise and it wants to cut out particularly going up mild hills. Is this all because of the TP sensor?

Posted

Your catalytic converter is stopped up replace it.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Having a similar issue on a:

2007 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Vortec Engine with 69,000 miles

Out Of Warranty

Uses Synthetic 5-30W oil

Change oil every 3000-5000 miles

 

Before I get to the main issues I'm having now, I should address some other issues I started having about 2 years after buying this truck.

 

At around 25,000 miles into owning this truck, it was consuming 1 quart of oil every 2000 miles or so. Nothing was done for this problem since that's within GM's specs. I started an oil consumption test, but the test was interrupted because my low oil light came on when I was out of town and I had to add oil. I also had an issue where my oil pressure would drop and I'd get a warning telling me to stop the engine. I took it to the dealer right away and they told me about a dirty screen or something in the oil pan. I seem to always have this issue now when it's time for me to get an oil change.

 

Anyway, I was driving home from work last weekend and all of sudden, my truck was really rough and I noticed the following warnings:

Service Stabilitrak

Service Traction Control

Check Engine Light

 

The truck would also shift very hard from 1st to 2nd gear. The engine doesn't sound very bad with the engine running at high RPM's, but it sounds like crap when at idle speed or at low RPM's.

 

I also contacted Onstar and they told me I had a P0304 message (cylinder 4 misfire) Oreily's auto parts also did a diagnostic and found the same issue. They gave me a print out stating that there is no known cause for this, but they also gave a list of possible solutions ranging from changing the spark plug, fuel injector and coil to replacing the engine! A little off topic, but when I got to Oreily's as soon as they opened that day, and a guy drove up right next to me with a similar truck having the same issue!

 

I tested my plugs with a spark plug tested and they all seem to be getting fire. I pulled the plugs on cylinders 1-4. Plugs 1,2 and 3 all looked the same with normal wear, but plug 4 was coated with black oil. I assume this why I was losing 1 quart of oil every 2000 miles.

 

I pretty much ran out of ideas on fixing this so I took the truck to the dealer and am waiting for a response on the problem right now.

 

I was told that MANY people are having these issues because of the unusually cold weather we've had here in the midwest. I was also told that this could be a major issue, but from what the mechanics at the dealers have seen in most cases, it's probably a sensor or something very minor.

 

I've talked to someone who told me that replacing his throttle body solved a similar issue for him.

 

Whatever the issue is, I just hope my engine doesn't need overhaul.

Posted (edited)

I ended up having to replace my camshaft and lifters. The job cost came to $4000. I thought that was unfair because I had previously taken my truck in for low oil pressure issues and I was losing a quart of oil every 1500 miles or so. I ended up contacting someone high up the ladder in the quality department at GM. They contacted the dealer and I ended up having to pay 50% of the original quoted price.

 

My truck SEEMS to be running fine now. I haven't had any low oil pressure or low oil warnings as of yet.

Edited by Ess Gee
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

 

I don't see how this is dangerous on the highway. You lose power, you signal, take a look around for an opening, and pull off to the side of the road. What do you do when you get a flat, or run out of gas, or grenade an engine? At highway speeds, the gas pedal will not get out of trouble, it will just get you there sooner.

 

 

How about one fellow I read about while I was researching "Reduced Engine Power"?

He was in the mountains pulling a trailer when his engine dropped to idle speed.

What if he was climbing a grade in traffic?

What if you were in the middle of multi-lane traffic when it happened?

Someone behind you needs to brake hard with someone behind them or change lanes with no where to go.

Accidents waiting to happen.

Edited by douart
  • Like 1
Posted

 

How about one fellow I read about while I was researching "Reduced Engine Power"?

He was in the mountains pulling a trailer when his engine dropped to idle speed.

What if he was climbing a grade in traffic?

What if you were in the middle of multi-lane traffic when it happened?

Someone behind you needs to brake hard with someone behind them or change lanes with no where to go.

Accidents waiting to happen.

 

If the cars following are allowing the proper amount of space between vehicles, they will have lots of time to stop. As will those that are following them. We are playing the "what if" game here, and in my "what if" game, all other drivers follow the rules, and drive defensively.

 

This still goes back to what I posted. What if you ran out of gas in the each of the three scenarios you gave? Or had a transmission failure, or flat tire, or blew the fuel pump fuse? You would still be in the same situation, and still at the mercy of those following.

Posted

 

If the cars following are allowing the proper amount of space between vehicles, they will have lots of time to stop. As will those that are following them. We are playing the "what if" game here, and in my "what if" game, all other drivers follow the rules, and drive defensively.

 

This still goes back to what I posted. What if you ran out of gas in the each of the three scenarios you gave? Or had a transmission failure, or flat tire, or blew the fuel pump fuse? You would still be in the same situation, and still at the mercy of those following.

 

doug_scott, Thanks for your contributions.

 

Your are right, except, where did you ever drive that everyone, or even most, followed the rules?

 

I experienced that before. I was a fairly new Christian leaving a crowded parking lot at a large motel after a Christian meeting and was shocked at the courtesy of the drivers.

 

Your "what ifs" could also be applied to the GM ignition switch problem.

 

And, there are situations where no amount of defensive driving can help.

Did anyone ever change lanes and cut in front of you? "What if" they had had a flat tire and lost control or their engine was shut down by the ECU when encountering "Reduced Engine Power" and they lost power steering?

 

Well, enough "what ifs" from me. I am convinced that if a person ever experiences the problems with "Drive by Wire" and starts researching the problem they will find many examples of dangerous situations that were out of the drivers control.

 

I like "Drive by Wire" but it has problems. For instance, shutting down the engine or just going into "Reduced Engine Power" mode because redundant throttle position sensors do not agree

does not seem justified to me. Plus, the overwhelming method of repair is to start replacing $200/$400 parts with no certainty of a fix.

 

I understand that that could be cheaper than hooking up an oscilloscope and trying to catch a very intermittent error but, it is a very haphazard and uncertain method of repair. Sometimes the symptoms go away and then return at varying intervals.

 

I have been searching for information about how to "Test, Diagnose, or Troubleshoot" the "(TAC)Throttle Actuator Control module" on a 2003 Silverado 1500HD here http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/164583-dreaded-reduced-engine-power/ .

 

Thanks Don

Posted

gm calls it a voluntary emission recall, my daughters car is a spark 2013 26,000 miles same problems chevy trucks are having, but in her recall they dont mention the traction control or stabilitr warning lights, some vehicles have a pcv valve that might wear prematurely, cause of oil consumption fouling #4 spark plug mil light on or flashing rough engine cause engine damage recall replaces pcv clean throttle body plate relean idle and replace # 4 plug. you could have a bad motor get compression test chevy dealers are replacing motors in the spark if #4 is less than 80 fyi

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

"ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK"

 

Has anyone ever came across this before?

 

Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge:

 

2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT

Taupe Gray

5.3 L V8

Crew Cab

 

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks,

 

:confused: R. Ashley

I have a 2011 silverado. My "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, and engine light came on. I almost got rear-ended because the truck lost power. I took it to the deal today and they said that the Throttle position sensor needed replaced. They also told me that GM is aware of this and have a special coverage #11273 extended the warranty. They replace it for free. I then got a number to call GM and complain. Hear it is 1-800-222-1020 Everyone need to call and complain about this so we can get them to more about it. I asked what happens when the extension runs out and this happens again, am I gonna have to pay for a problem that GM knows about? They did not have a answer for me. All she could say is , the dealer fixed it right. I said yes but what happens when this happens again and I do get rear-ended, is GM gonna pay to fix my truck or give me a new one because they can't fix this issue?

Posted

I have a 2011 silverado. My "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, and engine light came on. I almost got rear-ended because the truck lost power. I took it to the deal today and they said that the Throttle position sensor needed replaced. They also told me that GM is aware of this and have a special coverage #11273 extended the warranty. They replace it for free. I then got a number to call GM and complain. Hear it is 1-800-222-1020 Everyone need to call and complain about this so we can get them to more about it. I asked what happens when the extension runs out and this happens again, am I gonna have to pay for a problem that GM knows about? They did not have a answer for me. All she could say is , the dealer fixed it right. I said yes but what happens when this happens again and I do get rear-ended, is GM gonna pay to fix my truck or give me a new one because they can't fix this issue?

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