Potential 2014/15 1500 Buyer

BIGDOGx · April 15, 2014

I didn't see an issue with the old axles. 110,000 trouble free miles from mine, and I've seen trucks with 300,000 and no issues. The grille shutters are just another thing that will quit working after a few years, trigger a code, and cost $$$ to get fixed. Gadgets like that always go wrong eventually. My .02, if you want a car you can use as a truck, Ram. If you want a truck you can use as a car, GM.

Same here over 70,000 miles and almost ten years of use and I'm still running on my oem brake pads. Only thing I have done rear pumpkin related is change the oil out of it, I really don't even think I will ever need to service the rear brakes as I don't plan on keeping this truck but another year or two. How many other Silverado owners with a rear disc setup can claim over a decade of use and still have no need to service the rear brakes? I know the 00-03 model year owners would of gone through 3 complete overhauls already with how crappy that setup was.

FL335i · April 15, 2014

^I'm going to drive the Ram and the Chevy. See which one I personally like better, seat comfort, steering, etc. and also price. The Ram's have aggressive pricing and a better powertrain warranty IIRC. If I'm paying 5K more for the same trim level truck to get 1mpg more... That math does not work. I just like the fact the GM trucks have direct injection. That is huge to me. My 335i has it, and it's an '07. One of the first cars on the road with DI/HPFP setup. I think it's like going from a carb to FI. IMO. The ram does not have it... that's a problem to me. But at the end of the day I'll drive both, price both and make a decision. I will not even entertain the current F150, as it's way outdated and the cool, powerful tuner friendly Turbo engine is appealing to the gear head side of me... The reliability record is not up to par with GM/Ram and consumer reports confirms what the Ford forums are reporting with the EB engines. The new one comes out and will command a premium and Ford's 5yr/60k powertrain warranty is the worst of the big 3. For me buying a "work" vehicle that can rack up to 30k/yr some years... Warranty is big along with reliability. I do not want any modifications either, so modding the truck doesn't mean jack to me. IE Turbo tuning etc. That's why the obvious choice is either the Ram or GM trucks.

nards444 · April 15, 2014

^I'm going to drive the Ram and the Chevy. See which one I personally like better, seat comfort, steering, etc. and also price. The Ram's have aggressive pricing and a better powertrain warranty IIRC. If I'm paying 5K more for the same trim level truck to get 1mpg more... That math does not work. I just like the fact the GM trucks have direct injection. That is huge to me. My 335i has it, and it's an '07. One of the first cars on the road with DI/HPFP setup. I think it's like going from a carb to FI. IMO. The ram does not have it... that's a problem to me. But at the end of the day I'll drive both, price both and make a decision. I will not even entertain the current F150, as it's way outdated and the cool, powerful tuner friendly Turbo engine is appealing to the gear head side of me... The reliability record is not up to par with GM/Ram and consumer reports confirms what the Ford forums are reporting with the EB engines. The new one comes out and will command a premium and Ford's 5yr/60k powertrain warranty is the worst of the big 3. For me buying a "work" vehicle that can rack up to 30k/yr some years... Warranty is big along with reliability. I do not want any modifications either, so modding the truck doesn't mean jack to me. IE Turbo tuning etc. That's why the obvious choice is either the Ram or GM trucks.

I had the turbo F150 and no mods, and that engine is impressive, best MPG and the power was fantastic. But if your talking a work truck, dumb down the trim level still keep important bells and whistles and save some cash.

benw · April 15, 2014

After owning a 2009 Ram 4x4 Laramie, a 2013 Ram Lone Star, and a 2014 Silverado High Country 4x4, I'd recommend the Chevy.

When I first bought the laramie, I loved it. 6 months in I was experiencing serious quality issues (worn leather, rust, wheel/tire issues). I ended up selling it and replacing it with a new full size Range Rover. I say this because (I didn't know this yet) the RR set a new expectation for the type of quality I'd look for in a truck. After a couple years I began to experience the typical range rover problems and decided to give Ram another shot with all the improvements I had seen in the 1500. The 2013 Rams drive great in dry weather. The infotainment system is one of the best in any class. The power locking tailgate was really nice. But it was very loud to drive. Wind noise was excessive. In 2 wheel drive, there is absolutely no traction if the road is the least bit wet. Also, I got 12 MPG.

After 3 months with the new Ram, I gave up on it and bought the 2014 High Country. Granted the trim levels were different, but that made no difference in the fact that the Chevy drove well in rainy/icy conditions even in 2WD, it was as quiet as the RR, over 16, usually 18 MPG.

I'd reconsider some of the pro/con list you have. For example, the column shifter gives you more room (the chrome around the floor shifter in the dodge will blind you constantly on sunny days). I've gone back and forth with the bush button start on various cars i've had over the past 9 years. It may not be as big of a deal in practice as it seems to be right now. You stop thinking about it after a while. Also, you don't have to drive all the way back to the dealer or find the valet again when you walk off with the vehicle running and the keys in your pocket.

Hopefully some of this helps. Good luck with the decision.

FL335i · April 15, 2014

^ Good points my man.

Btreyu09 · April 15, 2014

Not to mention you have to change the plugs on the Hemi every 30k miles. All 16 of them..

FL335i · April 15, 2014

^HOLY COW. R U SERIOUS. In today's day and age. My BMW has 6 special Bosch plugs that are $10/ea. and get replaced every 40k +/-. Non turbo BMW's do 100k. Every other car I've owned I do NGK OEM Iridium's and do 100k intervals with ease. Another issue is running 89 gas. I'm surprised that's not more publically touted. So on 87 the difference is probably more like -2mpg on the ram. I want to test drive a GM truck with 18's vs 20's too. Really leaning toward 18's. Save cash up front and on replacement tires. I looked up tires at tirerack and I'd be going with Michelin LTX 2's. Little bit cheaper for 18's. And after talking to a subcontractor this morning, who has a 2-3yr old 1500 V8, 3.08 gear... he says it down shifts like crazy on the hwy. If he passes opposite direction of a semi it down shifts. The wind. Jeez. So 3.42 is the way. Plus the newer engine should be a lot better. I'm going to try building a model under the LTZ again see if I can shave this price down.

Ridersfan · April 15, 2014

Above costs if one wants to just buy whichever is cheapest, you need to consider the resale... if you're keeping it 10+ years, resale is irrelevant... won't matter. If you want to drive it 3-4 years, resale is everything. GM resale has always and will always be higher than dodge, hands down. I attend dealer auctions weekly and see it week after week after week. GM trucks bring the best resale, even better than toyota.

kstruckcountry · April 15, 2014

I can back up your tire decision. I put about 2000 miles on a set of LTX AT2 this winter and they are awesome. Really smooth ride and good traction. Yes they are a premium but they're worth it. I would probably have a set myself if they had a slightly more aggressive version.

nards444 · April 15, 2014

^HOLY COW. R U SERIOUS. In today's day and age. My BMW has 6 special Bosch plugs that are $10/ea. and get replaced every 40k +/-. Non turbo BMW's do 100k. Every other car I've owned I do NGK OEM Iridium's and do 100k intervals with ease. Another issue is running 89 gas. I'm surprised that's not more publically touted. So on 87 the difference is probably more like -2mpg on the ram. I want to test drive a GM truck with 18's vs 20's too. Really leaning toward 18's. Save cash up front and on replacement tires. I looked up tires at tirerack and I'd be going with Michelin LTX 2's. Little bit cheaper for 18's. And after talking to a subcontractor this morning, who has a 2-3yr old 1500 V8, 3.08 gear... he says it down shifts like crazy on the hwy. If he passes opposite direction of a semi it down shifts. The wind. Jeez. So 3.42 is the way. Plus the newer engine should be a lot better. I'm going to try building a model under the LTZ again see if I can shave this price down.

I have the stock 18s and tires and they work great. You should be able to get a solid 30k out of them if not closer to 40k or more depending on what you are doing. Tire cost are high, but if your looking at 30-40k I mean your talking at least 3-4 years before needing new rubber.

As for 3.08 gearing I test drove one and the thing could not get out of its own way. Considering the tow rating on with that gearing you would be better off getting the V6 with higher gearing.

redwngr · April 19, 2014

Console shift can be had in an LTZ for cheap or is in included I forget.

Really??? Never seen or heard that before. Pictures??

Definitely a console available with bucket seat LT, and LTZ, standard on High country, but I thought the shifter was/is always still on the column.

chuckl1218 · April 19, 2014

Yes, shifter is on the column.

MikeNH · April 19, 2014

No trim offers a console shifter.

'01LS1 · April 19, 2014

Not to mention you have to change the plugs on the Hemi every 30k miles. All 16 of them..

I *think* they updated that in 2013. But pretty sure through 2012 the manual stated to change the plugs in the hemi at 30,000 miles.

Relying purely on past forum info, do not think they changed anything other than the recommended interval due to buyers concern. Go figure.

There are several things I like on the Ram trucks, but rear coil suspension is not one of them. Also seems like their sheet metal is extremely thin.

Just lightly push & it will wave back at you. Have read where people have left finger imprints on the hood closing it. While all mfg's are trimming down weight

to meet the communistic EPA regs, there is a balance that has to be found between durability & economy.

Do NOT know how the grill shutters work, but have to admit my first concern is 2-3 years of road debris/salt corrosion hitting the front of a vehicle & ceasing

their operation. Additionally concerned if the ecm closes them in a worst case scenario? Am sure in years to come they will be fine, but like the AFM system

on GM trucks, they go through several iterations of improvement. As far as the clunk on the GM Eaton rear ends, always thought that was u-joints? Was thinking

when those get replaced with units you can grease, the clunk went away. Maybe am wrong there?

Found a link to some more detailed info on the GM trucks that am pretty sure that sales guy will not mention...

http://www.trucktrend.com/features/consumer/163_1402_a_closer_look_at_gmcs_light_duty_pickups/

Sooperdave · April 19, 2014

Since your coming from a BMW, I think there is only one winner here.... A GM truck hands down. Once you test drive both you will understand. I cruised around last night with my folks having a very casual conversation with the radio on low and you could hear everything and everyone talking perfectly. It is without a doubt one of the quitest vehicles you will ever drive. I'm not biased as I will buy anything that suits my needs. I think Dodge has come along way and they do look pretty sharp but after almost buying an F150 Eco... til I drove it, which turned me back onto the GM trucks, I'm just glad I did. Best 1500 truck on the road!