Jump to content

Lease quote questions...


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all!

I am new here because we're interested in leasing a 2016 GMC Sierrra 1500 Denali. We have visited some dealerships and we got quotes for $398 with $998 down plus tax, title, and licensing fees. This is with OUR GM Employee discount and competitive lease rebate. Does this all sound like a good price? We never leased one before, so we don't know what to expect.

Thank you all!

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

There are so many more variables in the leasing equation than there are in the straight financing equation that it is impossible to determine this with the information you provided.

 

Also, leasing is very very sensitive to the lease contract vs. your driving needs/habits (in terms of mileage per year).

 

Depends on the residual, mileage allowance, mileage overage charge, money factor and other things.

 

For example, if you average 50,000 miles per year of driving, and the lease you refer to provides 10,000 free miles per year, this is most likely an awful deal for YOUR NEEDS.

 

It is very difficult from a cash flow diagram perspective to determine parity between leases. With straight financing, it is easy to determine parity between two finance deals.

 

There is a pretty strict "truth in financing" law. There is no "truth in leasing" law. That's just a fact.

 

My recommendation: Educate yourself on leases--- what all of the variables are and your good understanding of it. A quick google search should provide loads of good information on how lease deals get configured. Also, understand your driving requirements. Do you consistently drive the same mileage per year?---- or is there a significant chance that a eminent life change may all of a sudden require you to drive 2x the mileage next year than this year?

 

There are never guarantees, but this must be considered. If the lease is paid monthly, there is a hidden finance charge called the "money factor", for which there is no law indicating that it has to be explicitly exposed. Yes, you are financing the lease amount for the duration of the lease (monthly), and they charge interest for that. Do NOT rely on the dealer to explain this. Chances are the guy doing the deal has no clue. He is a software operator, not an accountant/mathematician.

 

Speaking from a strict mathematical/financial perspective, leasing (for a private individual) is almost NEVER beneficial over financing outright. That being said, a lease can put you in a pretty nice vehicle for what appears to be a reasonable cost per month. I made the point of mathematics because, no matter how you twist it, leasing is money that is "gone", period. Financing still gives you the benefit of building equity and more flexibility/independence on a future vehicle swap. This is more true with a truck, as they tend to hold their value better than almost any other class of vehicle today.

 

Back when leasing first became extremely popular (some 20 years ago, i believe), the big three finance companies didn't call leasing "fleecing" for nothing. It was a new way for car companies to sell a vehicle to someone that truly couldn't afford it outright. Sounds harsh, but that's the truth.

 

Just some stuff to consider. I am not passing judgement on leasing. For fleets and businesses, leasing can make a tremendous amount of sense and save money. There are tax benefits, and other implications regarding fleet maintenance, depreciation and the like. For individuals, it is SELDOM that a lease makes financial sense when viewing the entire transaction at face value--- as opposed to a straight finance.

 

Better off financing slightly used than leasing new (IMO only).

Posted

Leasing is renting the vehicle. When you move out of the apartment, you have nothing. If you leave holes in the sheet rock, stain the carpet and drive too many miles, they keep your deposit AND make you pay additional.

Posted

I've leased about a dozen vehicles, it's a great way to go, it has it's pros and cons. That sounds like a really fair deal assuming you're getting 12k miles per year. I'm paying that much for a 48k sticker price LT Silverado.

Posted

 

 

 

 

. For individuals, it is SELDOM that a lease makes financial sense when viewing the entire transaction at face value--- as opposed to a straight finance.

 

Better off financing slightly used than leasing new (IMO only).

Care to elaborate? Except for cases where people keep their vehicles long beyond the finance terms I don't really see much of an advantage as long as you negotiate a good deal. Lets say you do two 36 month leases vs a 72 month buy for arguments sake and you trade in the 72 month buy vehicle in month 73 of ownership. Granted some people get hosed on leases, I've always been able to save about $200 a month over buying, with sign and drive leases. For instance my 48k sticker SIlverado LT lease payment w/ tax, sign and drive is $310 a month 39k total miles over 39 months, to finance the truck at the negotiated price would be right around $600 a month. I don't see how to justify the extra $290 months in my book, I drive the truck, never pay a dime to maintain it outside of a few oil changes. I'd have to keep that same truck for 12 years (assuming zero maintenance cost) to get the monthly cost down to $300.00. However assuming 12k miles per year you're gonna hit 144k miles in that period of time I'm thinking you're gonna drop 3-5k in up keep which adds $25 a month to your operation cost, granted the truck is probably still worth 10k at that point so now you trade it in on a new one and wind up with a payment closer to what you'd pay on a lease however, you're driving older technology after year 3-5 and having to deal with keeping it up. Buying used CPO seems like a good value if I didn't lease new I'd buy CPO but, I sure do like having a new ride every 2-3 years.

Posted

There are so many more variables in the leasing equation than there are in the straight financing equation that it is impossible to determine this with the information you provided.

 

Also, leasing is very very sensitive to the lease contract vs. your driving needs/habits (in terms of mileage per year).

 

Depends on the residual, mileage allowance, mileage overage charge, money factor and other things.

 

For example, if you average 50,000 miles per year of driving, and the lease you refer to provides 10,000 free miles per year, this is most likely an awful deal for YOUR NEEDS.

 

It is very difficult from a cash flow diagram perspective to determine parity between leases. With straight financing, it is easy to determine parity between two finance deals.

 

There is a pretty strict "truth in financing" law. There is no "truth in leasing" law. That's just a fact.

 

My recommendation: Educate yourself on leases--- what all of the variables are and your good understanding of it. A quick google search should provide loads of good information on how lease deals get configured. Also, understand your driving requirements. Do you consistently drive the same mileage per year?---- or is there a significant chance that a eminent life change may all of a sudden require you to drive 2x the mileage next year than this year?

 

There are never guarantees, but this must be considered. If the lease is paid monthly, there is a hidden finance charge called the "money factor", for which there is no law indicating that it has to be explicitly exposed. Yes, you are financing the lease amount for the duration of the lease (monthly), and they charge interest for that. Do NOT rely on the dealer to explain this. Chances are the guy doing the deal has no clue. He is a software operator, not an accountant/mathematician.

 

Speaking from a strict mathematical/financial perspective, leasing (for a private individual) is almost NEVER beneficial over financing outright. That being said, a lease can put you in a pretty nice vehicle for what appears to be a reasonable cost per month. I made the point of mathematics because, no matter how you twist it, leasing is money that is "gone", period. Financing still gives you the benefit of building equity and more flexibility/independence on a future vehicle swap. This is more true with a truck, as they tend to hold their value better than almost any other class of vehicle today.

 

Back when leasing first became extremely popular (some 20 years ago, i believe), the big three finance companies didn't call leasing "fleecing" for nothing. It was a new way for car companies to sell a vehicle to someone that truly couldn't afford it outright. Sounds harsh, but that's the truth.

 

Just some stuff to consider. I am not passing judgement on leasing. For fleets and businesses, leasing can make a tremendous amount of sense and save money. There are tax benefits, and other implications regarding fleet maintenance, depreciation and the like. For individuals, it is SELDOM that a lease makes financial sense when viewing the entire transaction at face value--- as opposed to a straight finance.

 

Better off financing slightly used than leasing new (IMO only).

 

Well I do understand how leasing works. I have leased many vehicles before and it's the perfect option for me since I like new vehicles often and I do not have to worry much about the vehicle because it's not mine. Thank you for all this information but my only real question was if my lease quote sounded reasonable as I have never leased a Sierra before...

Leasing is renting the vehicle. When you move out of the apartment, you have nothing. If you leave holes in the sheet rock, stain the carpet and drive too many miles, they keep your deposit AND make you pay additional.

I understand thank you! I will not be putting a deposit down and I have never had any of those happen in my previous leases but good things to keep in mind.

I've leased about a dozen vehicles, it's a great way to go, it has it's pros and cons. That sounds like a really fair deal assuming you're getting 12k miles per year. I'm paying that much for a 48k sticker price LT Silverado.

Yeah I got the 12k miles. I have leased so many vehicles it's just a great option for me, for others not so much.

Posted

I think this is a great topic. I bought a 15 denali and plan on leasing my next gen truck, but have no idea about leasing. So for a example I got my almost 60k msrp denali for just under 52k, how would that equate to a lease?

Posted

I think this is a great topic. I bought a 15 denali and plan on leasing my next gen truck, but have no idea about leasing. So for a example I got my almost 60k msrp denali for just under 52k, how would that equate to a lease?

 

The answer to that question lies in developing a cash flow diagram for both options, discounting them both back to net present value, and comparing said NPV (net present value).

 

Again, from a mathematical perspective, the NPV on a lease is RARELY (like never) more the the NPV on a purchase.

 

This is not the venue for an engineering economy lecture. It would get boring real quick.

 

The argument above that you do not pay for maintenanceon a lease is true whether you buy OR lease. Both cases have the same warranty if you are looking at an identical vehicle. Thus, that is not an argument FOR or AGAINST leasing. It is an equivalence. If you hold a purchased vehicle longer than the warranty, then you have to factor in equity in the comparison, and the lease has no equity, ever.

 

The "renting an apartment" analogy above is a good one. Essentially, the lease/finance agency holds all the cards. You're paying (more than) the anticipated depreciation on the asset for the time you have it (trust me you are, it's how they make their money), you're financing the lease cost and paying the money factor (more money they are making), AND, you are obligated to cover any damage, etc.. No equity is being built.

 

One can have a little fun by asking a dealer how much the lease would be if you paid the entire lease fee up front. Try it. You'll get strange stares, and they will have to call someone. If the say, "well, take your payment and multiply by the number of months and pay it up front," RUN. It it is a reputable dealer, they will say they have to call the lease/finance agency. If you get a legitimate number on that question, look at the difference between what you pay if you pay all up front, or monthly. That let's you determine the money factor. It will surprise you.

 

Bottom line, if everyone (but the customer) didn't clean up on a lease, they (leases) wouldn't even be offered to us.

 

Again, we all have to do what we find is the best solution for our needs. If you want to lease, and it works for you, then lease. I only encourage everyone to understand the financial instrument, whether it is a finance or a lease.

 

I am not criticizing anyone for their choices.

Posted

Care to elaborate? Except for cases where people keep their vehicles long beyond the finance terms I don't really see much of an advantage as long as you negotiate a good deal. Lets say you do two 36 month leases vs a 72 month buy for arguments sake and you trade in the 72 month buy vehicle in month 73 of ownership. Granted some people get hosed on leases, I've always been able to save about $200 a month over buying, with sign and drive leases. For instance my 48k sticker SIlverado LT lease payment w/ tax, sign and drive is $310 a month 39k total miles over 39 months, to finance the truck at the negotiated price would be right around $600 a month. I don't see how to justify the extra $290 months in my book, I drive the truck, never pay a dime to maintain it outside of a few oil changes. I'd have to keep that same truck for 12 years (assuming zero maintenance cost) to get the monthly cost down to $300.00. However assuming 12k miles per year you're gonna hit 144k miles in that period of time I'm thinking you're gonna drop 3-5k in up keep which adds $25 a month to your operation cost, granted the truck is probably still worth 10k at that point so now you trade it in on a new one and wind up with a payment closer to what you'd pay on a lease however, you're driving older technology after year 3-5 and having to deal with keeping it up. Buying used CPO seems like a good value if I didn't lease new I'd buy CPO but, I sure do like having a new ride every 2-3 years.

 

What happens if you keep the leased vehicle for 73 months? Right, you end up financing the car for the residual. Again, you have to maintain equivalence in the comparison. Again, gotta look at it that way as well.

 

Again, there's financial equivalency, and then there's your personal needs. Again, if it works for you, and you are comfortable, then that is good.

 

Take your example above :

 

" Lets say you do two 36 month leases vs a 72 month buy for arguments sake and you trade in the 72 month buy vehicle in month 73 of ownership."

 

Well, that's a perfect example, and one that I have used on final exams for an engineering economy course. If you are that interested, ping me off line, and we can run the cash flow diagrams for both leases, add them together, and compare that to one 72 month finance.

 

2 leases = 2 deposits (potentially), two finance streams at a (generally unknown) money factor. Also, don't forget the financed vehicle will have equity at the end.

 

My 9 year old Sierra with 120,000 miles on it still got me $13000 when I sold it last month. I believe the price I purchased it for in '07 was $37k, or so. So, (excluding maintenance), that cost to me was $222 per month for those 9 years. I actually ran the numbers, and for that Sierra, with maintenance costs included, the $222 ends up being about $255/month.

 

9 years is three 3 year leases. I seriously DOUBT one could lease three new equivalent cars for 3 years, at a pop, for an equivalent/average of $255 / month out of pocket.

 

True, I didn't have a "new" car every 3 years, but, hey. Again, whatever cranks one's tractor.

Posted

 

Well I do understand how leasing works. I have leased many vehicles before and it's the perfect option for me ................................... as I have never leased a Sierra before...

 

 

 

What does this even mean? You say you leased many vehicles and then in the same paragraph you save you have never leased a Sierra before and don't know what to expect? Its the same process, different vehicle.

Posted

Hello all!

I am new here because we're interested in leasing a 2016 GMC Sierrra 1500 Denali. We have visited some dealerships and we got quotes for $398 with $998 down plus tax, title, and licensing fees. This is with OUR GM Employee discount and competitive lease rebate. Does this all sound like a good price? We never leased one before, so we don't know what to expect.

Thank you all!

 

If you are shopping by monthly payment amount you are doing it wrong period.

 

Only ever shop by your out the door price, you then figured out the lease terms which set the obligation. Your residual value is the out the door - obligation. Your payments are obligation+tax / number of months and interest rate.

 

You need to work the numbers form the top down. NEVER EVER work the numbers from the bottom up for if you are, you have already lost the battle.

Posted

 

If you are shopping by monthly payment amount you are doing it wrong period.

 

Winner!

 

People who think leasing is a good deal are only looking at the monthly payment and not the total cost. Grumpy Aero Guy is right on, but his long explanation of facts may be lost on some.

 

There are only two people who should lease (financially speaking):

1) the guy who has money to burn and wants to be in a brand new denali every 3rd year.

2) the stupid guy who can't figure out the math and doesn't care he is burning money.

 

If you have money to burn, bless you. I wish I was in your shoes.

Posted

 

Winner!

 

People who think leasing is a good deal are only looking at the monthly payment and not the total cost. Grumpy Aero Guy is right on, but his long explanation of facts may be lost on some.

 

There are only two people who should lease (financially speaking):

1) the guy who has money to burn and wants to be in a brand new denali every 3rd year.

2) the stupid guy who can't figure out the math and doesn't care he is burning money.

 

If you have money to burn, bless you. I wish I was in your shoes.

 

heh, I was trying not to state it that bluntly.... LOL

 

kind of like gambling or the lottery: A tax for folks with bad math skills

Posted

if you are budgeted for a car payment and know how many miles you drive, leasing is by far the best option. I've had a car payment since my first car 18 years ago. It all depends on you. If you keep your cars for 10 years than obviously purchase. If you plan on buying out your lease, DON'T, just purchase it now. If you buy out your lease you will lose thousands of dollars in the 3 years. If you get bored with cars (like I do) every 2 or 3 years, lease. Those stupid 20% rebates gm started throwing out don't affect leases what-so-ever.

 

To answer the OP question, yes that's a good lease price. GMC employee discount can lease a Denali cheaper than an SLT. CHeapest i've seen an employee lease for is $350. The residual dropped a bit over the last few months but that is still a heck of a cheap lease on a 60k truck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...