Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Guys they confirmed this is the latest edition of the condenser  new part number # 84496856, just drove a 2018 built in May of 2018 had this condenser on it with the foil in the corner.

Edited by 05SIERRAMAN
Posted

Just bought a 2016 2500hd and it leaking water into the floor was told the case holding the evaporator coil was busted. Is This the same issue or part of it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
On ‎7‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 11:41 AM, dwall2259 said:

Just bought a 2016 2500hd and it leaking water into the floor was told the case holding the evaporator coil was busted. Is This the same issue or part of it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This appears to be a different issue.  The evaporator is located inside the truck, the condenser is in front of the radiator in the engine compartment.  the case that holds the evaporator is made of plastic or fiberglass, so your problem is most likely a crack in that plastic or fiberglass housing. Normally the condensed water from the evaporator coils is drained through the truck floor onto ground. 

Posted

Add me to this list.  2017 GMC Sierra Denali with 52K.  Called customer service and they say they have never heard of such an issue.  Dealer Service Manager and Technician knew exactly what the problem was without skipping a beat.  I told them it must be a common issue and sure as heck all the information out there is just amazing.  And GM Customer Service knows nothing. 

Posted

Add me to the repeat costumer list on this AC issue. Almost 1 year to the day mine stopped blowing cold. Well, this morning it happened again......

 

At this point, Id welcome the shinny tin foil condenser to my grill if it works.

Posted

Got my truck back in 1 day from the dealership.... I had two issues in regards to the AC system. The condenser was leaking as were one of the lines I had replaced 11 months ago.

 

Service department installed the condenser with the foil, part number # 84496856,  and both lines running from compressor to the condenser.

 

 

 

 

Posted

I was just at a local Chevy dealer for work shadowing the techs. Looks like the 2018's with the newest condenser (foil tape and reinforcement) still have the same issue.  

Posted

This just happened to me this week. Exact same condenser leak on the weld as the other pictures in this thread. 2015 Silverado LTZ with 31000 miles and the warranty expired 31 days ago.

 

I was quoted $1400 by the dealer for the repair. My Vin is not covered in the supplemental coverage.

 

I'm working with GM customer care to try to get a Goodwill repair. This should be a recall for a manufacturing defect, and not a supplemental item on specific Vin numbers.

 

This is my 6th GM vehicle, and I was getting ready to lease a Volt for my daughter. If they don't come through, I won't be buying another GM.

 

 

 

Posted

Happened to my 2015 Sierra today. 43k miles, less than 3 years old. 

 

My dealer told me he could probably get me some assistance, but I don't want to wait until next week.  Too damn hot and I need my truck.

Bought one from the parts store a few minutes ago.  Letting it cool off a bit now, going to throw it in there and take it to get evacuated and recharged later.   

 

 

Posted

FYI - Here is a link with all of the part numbers:

 

https://forums.dealersedge.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11002

 

84496856 is the newest one.

 

See:

 

Yes this is as a result of a complicated connection chain of part numbers that is below. I am currently working with the catalog group to get this to show more clearly for the dealers. But in short, depending on availability of the part the dealer can receive any parts in this chain until there is no stock left available and then only PN 84496856 will be used. Sorry about all of this mess, we didn’t realize how this would affect the catalog but we are working on a clearer solution now.
 

 

condenser.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Got mine replaced yesterday. 2015 Sierra 65xxx miles. The mechanic at dealership said he’s been replacing 2-3 a week on average on all full size suv and truck that gm makes 2014+. Funny thing is that they asked if I wanted them to recharge the system first for $140, I told them check the condenser first. I would have fell to that trap if it weren’t for the forums here!!! $140 to watch it leak right out lol. Extended warranty came through for the second time for me!

a29a895467f62e42a63a03a985619a5e.jpg


Hooksets are free...

Posted
On 5/2/2017 at 8:33 PM, thewhitestallion said:

Add me to the troubled condenser list... :M16:

 

About a month ago I was driving to work on a sticky Houston night, about ~75*f or so with probably 80% humidity when I noticed that my A/C was not blowing cold. So I double checked that my temps knobs were set right along with the blend door adjustment. Once I checked all that I knew the A/C was not working. So when I got to work I checked the compressor and saw that the clutch was engaged, so that was interesting.

 

Took it to a buddy that has a machine to recover any freon left in the system and the machine recovered very little, less than an ounce. I thought that was weird due to the clutch still being engaged with such low freon levels. So we filled it back up and put some dye in it and all was good.

 

This past Thursday I went to drive to work and my A/C was no longer working so after work when I got home, I was able to find the leak. And wouldn't you know it, it's the condenser (thank you GM). I was scheduled to go out of town on Friday morning and since I work night shift when I got off of work it was Friday morning.

 

So I start tearing it down to pull the condenser out only to get it out and find that no part store or dealer has the part as they are on national back order. So I am pretty pissed off at this point, put it all back together vacuum the system and charge it and the A/C worked great.

 

Although risky, I took it out of town 4 hours away, stayed out there for 2 days and drove it back home, about 500 miles of driving. A/c worked great the whole time and the next day it went out again, but this time I just added a little freon back in the system to hold me over.

 

A dealer near me just received 8 condensers today so I picked one up but it hurt, $400 for the condenser and two seals (rip off).

 

I have worked on some a/c systems before but I am by no means an ASE certified mechanic. My question is how should I go about adding oil to the system. When I took the condenser off the first time I lost some oil and when I went to replace it, I poured some oil in one end and then it started to come out of the other. I have seen some people use a syringe type tool to add oil in the system after it is charged but I have seen people just poor oil in the system before putting it back together.

 

I am a little unsure how to go about adding oil back into the system. GM says to add 2oz into the system after replacing the condenser but if more comes out then to go with that amount. So I will be adding at least 2 oz, just asking the best way to go about this.

 

Any help would be great, also I am trying to get a video of my leak uploaded, so once that happens I will upload it here.

 

 

Glad to know I am not the only one dealing with this issue. Thank you for posting!

Posted
37 minutes ago, boyzzsandtheirtoys33 said:

Took it to a buddy that has a machine to recover any freon left in the system and the machine recovered very little, less than an ounce.

Here's what we need to do. We need to get the EPA involved because of the freon that is being released every time one of these condensers fails. I bet there will be a nationwide recall pretty fast with the EPA breathing down their necks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 470 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...