Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/31/2020 at 12:54 PM, chevyzr1 said:

Thank you very much for that! One more question I have is, with the center console wiring harness, is it possible to get it to work without changing the dash harness ? The harness that I got with the overhead screen already has an lvds cable that's labeled rear hdmi and it looks like the console harness has the usb cable for the usb inputs in the rear so maybe it's possible that I won't need it or maybe I can just part out the part that I will need ? Any help on this is really appreciated ! 

DO YOU HAVE A PIC OF THIS CABLE ?

Posted
23 hours ago, PAPER said:

DO YOU HAVE A PIC OF THIS CABLE ?

The picture of the coiled up cable is the one I mentioned in that post. The rear hdmi inputs will work without the dash harness but you need the double usb cable and the one I have as well.

Posted
On 4/28/2021 at 4:54 PM, chevyzr1 said:

The picture of the coiled up cable is the one I mentioned in that post. The rear hdmi inputs will work without the dash harness but you need the double usb cable and the one I have as well.

WHAT  is the black box with the coiled Blue wire ?

Posted
19 hours ago, PAPER said:

WHAT  is the black box with the coiled Blue wire ?

That is the rear hdmi input that mounts to the center console. I ordered it and it was lost in shipping so I ordered another and then that one ended up showing up months later. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/26/2021 at 3:06 PM, chevyzr1 said:

 

 

 

C4FE30D8-A8EB-4011-B177-36DF5413C569.jpeg

how much you want for this cable ?

Also was wondering if you would be willing to share the wire

schematics you mentioned having a few post back  .

Quick question ? The back of the DVD player has 3 USB

inputs , Did you plug something into all of them ?

Posted

If connected correctly you will have all usb inputs connected on the back of the DVD player. I paid 80$ for the cable plus 30$ shipping. I'll let it go for 70$ including shipping. I'll find sometime this weekend to get on my laptop and send you the schematic I have !

  • Like 1
Posted
On 5/7/2021 at 6:41 AM, chevyzr1 said:

If connected correctly you will have all usb inputs connected on the back of the DVD player. I paid 80$ for the cable plus 30$ shipping. I'll let it go for 70$ including shipping. I'll find sometime this weekend to get on my laptop and send you the schematic I have !

🤩👍

Posted
On 5/7/2021 at 6:41 AM, chevyzr1 said:

If connected correctly you will have all usb inputs connected on the back of the DVD player. I paid 80$ for the cable plus 30$ shipping. I'll let it go for 70$ including shipping. I'll find sometime this weekend to get on my laptop and send you the schematic I have !

Well I had to Bite the Bullet & buy the whole harness . should be here this week ...

Quick question , am I reading it wrong or do you want $70 shipped for the cable ?

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Yes can be done. No removing dash. I’ve done it . I had a  2016 and wanted hdmi. You need the 2017+ setup. Console harness and  the panel  for the console. Everything works aux headphones remote headphones and hdmi on both screens. You need a schematic a couple plugs for the aux headphone and split a hot wire from console harness. Get the factory schematic and it’s not bad

Posted
17 hours ago, Allen Sisk said:

What the heck is RSE?  I have no idea what you are posting about.

RSE = Rear Sear Entertainment

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/25/2021 at 11:34 PM, Kris Abernathy said:

Yes can be done. No removing dash. I’ve done it . I had a  2016 and wanted hdmi. You need the 2017+ setup. Console harness and  the panel  for the console. Everything works aux headphones remote headphones and hdmi on both screens. You need a schematic a couple plugs for the aux headphone and split a hot wire from console harness. Get the factory schematic and it’s not bad

WOULD YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE FACTORY SCHEMATICS ?

I HAVE EVERYTHING NEEDED & ALREADY INSTALLED BLU-RAY PLAYER , 

BUT I HAVE HAD NO LUCK GETTING THE SCHEMATICS .I EVEN HAVE THE

HARD TO GET DOUBLE CABLE POSTED ABOVE ( HAD TO BUY DASH

HARNESS TO STRIP IT OUT OF HARNESS )

Posted
On 11/28/2021 at 3:56 AM, PAPER said:

WOULD YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE FACTORY SCHEMATICS ?

I HAVE EVERYTHING NEEDED & ALREADY INSTALLED BLU-RAY PLAYER , 

BUT I HAVE HAD NO LUCK GETTING THE SCHEMATICS .I EVEN HAVE THE

HARD TO GET DOUBLE CABLE POSTED ABOVE ( HAD TO BUY DASH

HARNESS TO STRIP IT OUT OF HARNESS )

 

I don't know if this will help you as this is for a 2016 and not the 2017+.

 

 

RSE 1.pdf RSE 2.pdf

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Glad I found this post before posting a question. My ‘09 has been throwing those codes and P0442. I replaced the gas cap as it was trashed to begin with and the purge solenoid valve under the hood but still get the code every now and then. Dealership said I need to replace the vent lines as the previous owner use cheap fuel line that feels more like a balloon. They also said the charcoal canister and the “canister vent solenoid/service kit” so it relocates the filter up by the top of the transmission. Vent solenoid is cracked as the previous owner just let it hang loose. Too lazy to put it back on its bracket. If I put it on there the hose kinks and I thinks causes a whistle when I fill up.  Only issue is the parts guys can’t tell me which one I need as it shows two styles. One has a jointed section. Which should I use?  Thanks.  I apologize for hijacking the thread
    • UPDATE 3: Supposedly you need any cluster OTHER THAN a WT model cluster to have full steering wheel functionality. Went back to the part truck and removed the all terrain cluster, trim, and snipped as many wiring harnesses as possible to pull out the factory terminal leads if needed 😂 that poor donor truck…    As of right now I’m relying on Darth_Vader’s thread and YouTube videos. will update.  
    • Was commenting on the engine labs article on lifter failure.
    • The “engine hours” display is there because the truck detects the key presence as you were thinking.   My first step would be to call a dealer service person and ask if this a known issue and how they deal with it. If you don’t get meaningful advice there, i would try a couple of DIY things before bringing it in for troubleshooting/repair.   It sounds like a mechanical key detection switch is stuck, but I have not actually seen what the internals look like. Maybe spray some Caig Deoxit (electrical contact cleaner) in the key hole and work the key in and out in case it’s an electrical contact cleanliness issue.  If that doesn’t work, next apply whatever lubricant GM recommends and work the key in and out a few times.    Good luck with it. 
    • Carbon on valves would be the least of my worries on a light duty, 1500-series pickup with 357k provided the engine still ran halfway decently. Everything else is likely toast, on its way out, or has already been mauled to death by cheap mechanics and backyard fixes. Those kinds of trucks nickel and dime a guy to death.   I wouldn't think having the top end cleaned once or twice would be a big deal on a 5.3 but maybe it is?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...