Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It’s funny but as quickly as the sound came back last month for a day or so it then went away. Truck has been quiet lately and I’m hoping it will stay that way (knock on wood). However I have a bad feeling as soon as we start getting warmer days and nights in March and April it will come back again.  I’m keeping my fingers crossed that perhaps I’ll get lucky and it’ll never come back. 

 

What sucks is other than that I actually really like the truck. Comfortable and nice exhaust sound from the 5.3L and optioned just the way I like it pretty much.  Funny how one rattle can really just make you forget the other things you like about it. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Never had this issue with my '15, but now that I have stumbled across this thread, I'll start hearing it.  :mad: 

Posted

Knock on wood I haven't heard the b pillar tick in a  while - and its been warming up into the low 80s here in Houston. I'm fearful it will return at any time though.  I keep my fingers crossed that maybe it corrected itself somehow.

 

The only rattle that's been really bothering me lately (and it comes and goes depending on where the seat is positioned) is this slight rattle I get in the passenger seat when it's empty.  I'll mess with the seat position until it goes away - and then my wife will get in the truck, adjust the seat and it throws it all off again, and it starts rattling all over the next time I drive it by myself.  LOL.  

Posted

Hey guys, first post. I see others are feeling my pain on this issue.

 

I've pulled off both driver side door panels, and the pillar panel and have been driving around trying to trouble shoot this issue for days. Tried holding different seat belt parts tight, stuffing rags in wherever, shimming anything that seems like it moves near another piece of metal etc.

 

To me the sound definitely sounds like it is echoing inside the metal chamber of the pillar. Of course noise is deceiving around metal as it can radiate and sound like it is somewhere else depending on where you sit.

 

I will take a closer look at the wiring harness area referred by a couple folks. Just to be clear, this is the wiring that can be seen about half way up when you open the rear door?

 

For those that read the photo of the maintenance report posted about spraying the form in this area, where exactly is it being sprayed?

 

Thanks for any help. Hopefully I don't resort to the sledgehammer solution soon.

 

Take care,

Rob

Posted

Update to my last post. It seems that whenever I lean over to the left towards the pillar in my seat it definitely diminishes. When I lean forward, it comes back with a vengeance. But it doesn't seem to be driver seat related, as odd as that sounds, because I had a coworker crawl in the back seat to listen to it with me.

 

When he sat on the passenger side rear seat, it was loud and obnoxious. When he slid over towards the drivers side, even if I leaned forward in my seat, the noise diminished significantly. So it seems that floor pressure anywhere close to the pillar causes it to change. It's very frustrating since the noise sound to be about head level for me.

 

Maybe the weight on the floor is causing just enough flex in the metal to allow or not allow whatever parts involved to touch each other.

 

Take care,

Rob

Posted

Update on my trouble shooting. Some spoke about the side steps. I had already remounted my sidesteps but took another look. I took my hands and shook the hell out of the driver side step and heard a very similar noise. I had a friend shake the step while I sat in the driver's seat with the door closed and heard a similar noise.

 

I'm not saying the side step is causing this noise but it at least replicated the symptoms pretty closely. With that said, my step is body mounted so clearly flexing the body under that pillar area may be the trigger. I'm wondering if that body mount (not the step mount, but the actual body mount) behind the center of the step could be the source of the problem, and the noise simply radiates through the under body and up the pillar's metal channel.

 

Take care,

Rob

Posted (edited)

I’m becoming more convinced that this noise is coming from metal either under the truck or under the metal near the door sills.  Normally the noise radiates through the b pillar, but this morning it was most evident under the driver’s door speaker. 

 

@drtyTshrt @sierra1412 have yall received any updates?

 

Has anyone with running boards been able to permanently fix this? 

Edited by davidsp101
Asking for help
Posted
On 4/25/2019 at 5:11 PM, wreckdiver said:

Update on my trouble shooting. Some spoke about the side steps. I had already remounted my sidesteps but took another look. I took my hands and shook the hell out of the driver side step and heard a very similar noise. I had a friend shake the step while I sat in the driver's seat with the door closed and heard a similar noise.

 

I'm not saying the side step is causing this noise but it at least replicated the symptoms pretty closely. With that said, my step is body mounted so clearly flexing the body under that pillar area may be the trigger. I'm wondering if that body mount (not the step mount, but the actual body mount) behind the center of the step could be the source of the problem, and the noise simply radiates through the under body and up the pillar's metal channel.

 

Take care,

Rob

I’ve spent more time than I’d like to admit under my truck with my wife working the door, jumping on the door sill, etc, and @wreckdiver I’m most certain you are correct.  There are areas under the truck where the sheet metal is stamped together at an angle - with the obvious one being right under the b pillar.  That is clearly where the noise is coming from.  Maybe a set screw will hold it into place?  I have an appointment next week but I’m skeptical that they’ll make progress given everyone else’s issues.  I’m bound and determined to solve this.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am cautiously optimistic that I've found the cure for my passenger side B Pillar ticking. Went through almost every suggestion in this forum. Finally, I removed the lower pillar plastic cover and saw that a couple wires connected to the seat belt mechanism were very close to the cover itself. The wires are at / near floor-level. They were like almost rubbing the cover. See image. I then wire-tied the wires to the metal B Pillar. 

 

I noticed in the middle of the B Pillar is a wire bundle. Just for giggles, I wire-tied that wire bundle to the B Pillar, too. 

 

Been a dozen or so trips since, and the dreaded B Pillar tick has been fixed. So far.

 

Best, 

John,  KF5ZMD

20190512_181513.jpg

Posted (edited)

Has anyone with running boards successfully fixed this by re-torquing the bolts?

 

I'm considering putting running boards on if it'll fix the problem.  At this point, it might be cheaper than constantly taking off of work to go to the dealer only to hear that they can't replicate it.

Edited by davidsp101
Context
Posted

can we get a picture farther back for point of reference? Also, I'm not finding any how-to instructions to remove the B pillar moldings... i know the 2 bolts on the handle... is it all clips after that?

Posted (edited)

Oops, I just had the one photo of the seatbelt electric wires. Sorry.

 

The b-pillar cover is all held in with clips. Remove the bottom door sill covers front and back and it all just unclips. Pretty simple.

 

Remove the front and rear door sill plates by lifting them straight up.....the b pillar cover should then come off by firmly pulling it in the exact opposite direction from the post it is attached to.

 

Hope this is helpful,

John, KF5ZMD

Edited by mojohn
Add word cover

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...