Jump to content

2014+ K2XX - Center Console Swap / Retrofit - Plug and Play Harness!

pgamboa

By pgamboa
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys - Thanks for the feedback! @Mike Harding, I get tons of PMs., but will get to yours. While it feels like I am doing this full time, I don’t. :). Also have a regular full time job too :). Give me a few and will get to your PM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

pgamboa
pgamboa

Jump Seat to Full Center Console Retrofit  Plug and Play Harness by PGAMBOA     For those of you looking to swap your Jump Seat to a Full Center Console, I now have a Plug and Play Harness

pgamboa
pgamboa
ChrisTaylor14
ChrisTaylor14

I waited a long time to do this upgrade on my truck because I didn’t want to have to cut and splice the wiring in my truck and wanted everything to work as if the console were factory. So when I saw t

Posted Images

2017_whitez71 Enthusiast

2017_whitez71

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Mike Harding said:

Hello my name is Mike. I have a 2015 Silverado REG cab. I wont to get a console for it, I have a  jump seat there now.  went to my dealer today to order one. they said they didn't have it in the reg cab. so I'm wondering if it will even fit and how do I get it? My truck is black my interior is Jet black.. I also want to get the plug and play harness. Can someone please help me. I would greatly appreciate it. Not even sure if I'm in the right forum topic.

A center console will fit in your truck, have seen other members do it in a regular cab truck. You just need to find one and get a harness from Phil 

  • Like 1
AHart New Member

AHart

Posted
Posted

I searched autotrader to find one in a truck I liked then used that vin and ordered from gmpartsnow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
ponyfool New Member

ponyfool

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2018 Silverado LT with the jump seat. I love the look of this console (my 07 had the console). My question is unrelated to most of the other questions here, and I didn't see it addressed, hopefully someone can help. 

The one thing I really like about the jump seat over the console from my 07 is the amount of storage (lockable at that). By switching to the much better looking console, would I be losing all that storage? Is there lockable storage? On my 2018, I use the area under the jump seat for a check book, etc, and like that it's "hidden" and lockable. 

Can someone post a picture of the "inside" of the console? or are the pictures I'm seeing what you get, just a big open area? 

louiecr Enthusiast

louiecr

Posted
Posted

Similar storage by the square inch its just laid out differently. There are pro and cons to both. If your handy and creative you can make more hidden storage with the full console.

Shaheen New Member

Shaheen

Posted
Posted
On ‎14‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 1:02 AM, Mike Harding said:

Hello my name is Mike. I have a 2015 Silverado REG cab. I wont to get a console for it, I have a  jump seat there now.  went to my dealer today to order one. they said they didn't have it in the reg cab. so I'm wondering if it will even fit and how do I get it? My truck is black my interior is Jet black.. I also want to get the plug and play harness. Can someone please help me. I would greatly appreciate it. Not even sure if I'm in the right forum topic.

I have a regular cab and yes it will fit perfectly in the existing jump seat 4 bolts. I will try to finish mine Today or Tomorrow and will post some pictures.

Mike Harding Enthusiast

Mike Harding

Posted
Posted

That would be perfect... I thank you very much..

Mike

They told me that they didn't put one in the Reg cab. So they didn't have a part number.

Wanted me to find a truck or the extented cab and get the vin number.

My truck is black with jet black interior with white stitches.

So I guess I'll have to find one that is the right color..

What color is yours?lol..

Mike

Mike Harding Enthusiast

Mike Harding

Posted
Posted

And I was wondering if all the consoles were the same size?

I sure do appreciate you talking to me. This is harder than I thot.. but its getting easier.

Hogtiming Enthusiast

Hogtiming

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, Mike Harding said:

And I was wondering if all the consoles were the same size?

I sure do appreciate you talking to me. This is harder than I thot.. but its getting easier.

All are the same size in Silverado's 1500 and 2500 and the same consoles, just different color/texture trim. However, the Tahoe center console is different.

DSlade New Member

DSlade

Posted
Posted
On 12/13/2017 at 10:35 PM, pgamboa said:

Jump Seat to Full Center Console Retrofit 
Plug and Play Harness by PGAMBOA

 
 
For those of you looking to swap your Jump Seat to a Full Center Console, I now have a Plug and Play Harness for this upgrade!  This long awaited - PnP Harness will allow you to EASILY perform this upgrade.  NO cutting or splicing needed!
 
Center Console - Plug and Play Harness is $125 Shipped to lower 48.  For Alaska, Hawaii, and Canada, please PM me for a quote.
 
Since there are several versions and configurations of center consoles and truck trim levels, I feel that I have covered a majority of the configurations that are out there.  There will be several assumptions on the ability to perform this upgrade and I’ll try to be as detailed and comprehensive as possible.
 
Please see the different USB Cable configuration diagrams at the end.
 
Assumptions:
 
- 2014-2015 Center Consoles will have different USB Cable requirements than 2016-2017 AND will have different USB Hubs.  The PnP Harness should be compatible, but you MUST verify the connector under the passenger AND the front of the console!  Since this is a custom product, there will be NO REFUNDS on it.
 
- Center Console MUST have its factory harness intact and not modified.
 
- Connection under the Passenger Seat AND Front of Center Console must look exactly like the diagram.  There is a variant X314 Connector under the seat, so yours MUST match in order for this harness to adapt. 
 
- Additional GM USB Cables must be purchased separately (based on your console year) to get USB Hubs functional.
 
- Wireless Charging - Wireless Charging became available on 2016 and 2017 consoles.  If you are looking at adding a Wireless Charging Lid to a 2014-2015 Console, please PM me for requirements.  Also, there are known issues with 2016/2017 Consoles with the Wireless Lid and charging iPhone 8 and iPhone X Phones.  There are workarounds for this that require some form of modification to the charging module.  You can also swap the module for a 2018 Module that DOES charge iPhone 8 and iPhone X phones.  Please PM me for questions on specifics.
 
- Your truck MUST have an existing 110V AC Outlet AND (1) - 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Plug as you will be reusing those.  My PnP Harness DOES NOT add the 110V AC Outlet if you don’t already have it.  However, I CAN add an additional 12V DC Outlet connection if needed.
 
- USB Cable connections will come from your HMI (Behind the Glove Box).  You MUST verify that you have the USB Ports available, otherwise, your USB Hubs will not work correctly.
 
- This PnP harness DOES NOT add any Car Play, Apple Play, or Android Play functionality.  If your truck did not already come with it, you will not gain it.
With this PnP Harness, you ***should*** have ALL the components in your console functional.
 
Those options include:
 
Front of the Console:

  • Front - Left USB Hub (Dual USB - 2016/2017or Triple USB Hub 2014/2015 - Uses my Plug and Harness AND a USB Cable from the HMI
  • Front - Left 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses existing connections (truck must be equipped.  If not, I can custom add this if needed)
  • Front - Right 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet -  Uses my Plug and Play Harness
  • Front - Right 110V AC Outlet - Uses existing connections (truck must be equipped)

 
Inside Storage Compartment:

  • Inside - Left 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector
  • Inside - Right USB Hub - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged in the front main 42-Way Connector and USB Cable
  • Inside - LED Lamp - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector
  • Wireless Charging Lid (2016-2017 only) - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector

 
Rear of the Console:

  • 12V DC - Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector

 
THERE IS A LOT TO CONSUME HERE, SO PLEASE PM IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ON THIS.  I WANT ENSURE THAT YOU UNDERSTAND ALL THE REQUIREMENT FOR THIS RETROFIT BEFORE PURCHASING.
 
 36c4ae3d906ca20d091752c035025969.jpg

2d1fe48b1a860d65b288301255a90a92.jpg

bdcb6022704f30a3172eba5cddc1aa35.jpg

b90505fb30863f0ce59a90b99f60b2c8.jpg

dc54b9338950721e4bc7fb302ea42f56.jpg
 
 
 

16-Pin - Plug and Play Harness
a2c3f8361f06044798de54f56fbfeaab.jpg

23-Pin - Plug and Play Harness
dc6d0faaf90695b11a78695f27a370c4.jpg

 

AMENDOZA Enthusiast

AMENDOZA

Posted
Posted

Pgamboa I have a 16 pin and I want to order the PnP harness from you. PayPal?
Also I can supply new door harnesses if you are interested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shaheen New Member

Shaheen

Posted
Posted

 

On ‎15‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 3:13 PM, Mike Harding said:

That would be perfect... I thank you very much..

Mike

Here you go. It fit perfectly but you need to remove the seat for easy access. 

 

As I removed the seat I will take this opportunity change seat cover :D

 

A big thank you @pgamboa for his fantastic service and help.

 

5a8934792de0c_centerconsole.thumb.jpg.65a55da427e418ad9fff31b409d4a070.jpg

 

  • Like 1
frankinbus Enthusiast

frankinbus

Posted
Posted

Hey Phill We can do this just watched your video a shit load of times ,

I think i don't need a hmi box , we just come from under seat (usb) to input side of front double usb , come out from out going side to brown plug on front that feeds the console box , that picture i sent you of my  (vais xm)  plugged directley under seat works fine. still have car play ,

So i should order those usb cables unless you have them 

So i'll just need your power up wireing and the upgrade plug for wireless gharging pad ,

IMG_4960.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...