Thought I'd post a review of the newly installed suspension and wheel set up on my 2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500. Previous set up was stock MagneRide suspension with ride height sensors and 22" stock wheels with Nitto Terra Grappler G2's size 285/45r22. I'm at 70k miles and the ride was steadily getting worse (too stiff), so I researched for a while and ended up installing the following:
HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit (adjustable coilovers for 1" to 3" of lift in front, and 1" of lift in the rear) - http://www.halolifts.com/HaloLifts-Boss-Ultimate-Kit-fits-your-2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500_p_220.html Stock GMC Sierra 18" rims (powder coated black) with Falken Wildpeak AT3W's size 275/70r18 Bypass sensor kit for all 4 MagneRide shock sensors and all 4 ride height sensors (I removed all ride height sensors that are mounted to the frame) - http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html
Up first, the HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit
At $1299, this is a more expensive kit vs the Fox, Bilstein, or Rancho equivalant. What swayed me to this kit was that I was not looking for a crazy lift and I wanted something that was plug and play should I go a different route once these start to fail (like all shocks eventually do). Additionally, I found multiple reviews on this forum and other brand forums where people said they had installed Fox, Bilstein, and/or other brands and this was the best riding kit and worth the extra cash. You'll find a rep from the company, Alex, who's posted in this forum, as well as others, and he says call him with any questions. I did, and he answered every time and would not let me go until I had EVERY question answered. The customer service is outstanding with this place. I ended up going with the coilovers set at 1.5" of lift and I put .5" spacers beneath it to get 2" of total lift and the softest ride possible. Each kit is made custom to what you want, so that's how it arrived for me. You can have the coilovers set at 2" if you want, then add 1" of spacers underneath. Since I am only doing 2" of lift, I did not purchase new UCA's. Below are pics of me opening the packages. Again, thoroughly impressed with how sealed everything was with plenty of foam and cardboard to protect everything. Install was a breeze, thanks to instructions that were included and my convo with him over the phone. One last thing, the "do the rear shock boots go down or up?" debate has been settled. According to HaloLifts they go down :-)
Next, the new wheel/tire set up
I downsized from a 22" set up to an 18" set up so I could get more sidewall and a softer ride. While I like the look of a larger rim, it was so easy to get scratches on the 22" rims since they are so close to the ground and there's not enough sidewall on the tire to bulge out a little bit to help protect the rims. So, new set up gets me a softer ride and better rim protection. I went with a stock rim and had it powder coated black because I've had mixed experience with aftermarket rims (good and bad). As far as the tire choice, Falken Wildpeaks kept coming up as best all around value for it's performance. I've had KO2's in the past, as well as other AT tires but I wasn't blown away by their performance for how much you spend on them. Falken's were cheaper, but hold up well in rain, snow, and mud. Plus they have an aggressive look, that's a nice bonus. Below are pics of the truck with the new wheel and suspension set up. I'll follow that up with the obligatory, "pardon the dirty truck, haven't had time to wash it".
Last, the MagneRide bypass kit
This only applies to those who have the MagneRide suspension and ride height sensors (certain trims like Denali). If you do have it, you'll need to bypass the sensors or you'll forever be dismissing a message that says "service suspension system". If you can live with that, then ignore all of this. If it'll drive you nuts, you have 2 options - one cheap, but could lead to other issues and the other is not so cheap, but will not have issues. There are 8 sensors total, 4 shock sensors and 4 ride height sensors. The first option is to go cheap and buy 8 resistors (3 ohm, 25 watts). You then splice them in at every sensor. The risk here is corrosion, if you don't seal the splices properly this leads to the wire harnesses going bad and having to purchase all new harnesses and resistors to do all of the work again (and now you've spent more money on the harnesses). In all, this could run you about $50 for resistors, heat shrink, and a heat gun. The second option is to do what I did and buy the professional bypass kit from x-ineering. It's $425, but they'll give you a $75 discount if you post about your install on social media. I went this route because they clip in and seal the wiring, just like the stock sensors. No risk of corrosion and everything they make is backed by warranty.
Overall, I'm super happy and love the ride. Only a couple hundred miles on it so far, I'll report back after all my Thanksgiving travel coming up (1500+ miles). Let me know if there are any questions!
New to the forum, and glad to be finally back into a truck after a few years. So I just recently purchased a used 2015 denali 6.2 with 55k miles, and the previous owner installed a leveling kit. Now the problem is that they did not install a relocation bracket for the magneride sensor. I noticed that it seemed to ride rougher than my dads non denali and so I started doing more research on here and other places. I had heard that if you didn't want to go the bracket route, you could have the dealer reset the shocks to zero in the computer so the truck knows its level. Since I had just bought it a little over two weeks ago, I figured I would just take it back to the dealer and make them do it. When I got there and meet with the suspension guy, he said hes done over 100 leveling kits, and hes's never had to put a bracket in there. So he said he wanted to check the shocks to see if they were ok, and once he got it up on the lift, he then noticed that they were leaking and would need to be replaced. He drove it and agreed that the ride was really stiff and said with the new shocks the ride should be 20x's better than before. Since I didnt have to pay for anything I said absolutely, go ahead and replace the front struts.
Long story short, got the truck back, and yes the ride is definitely better, but it still feels fairly stiff. So I was hoping that if someone on here had the brackets on their's they could hook me up with some dimensions and I could just make some of my own. I called suspension maxx, but they told me they could only sell me the brackets if I had some sort of proof of purchase, but of course I don't because the previous owner is the one who purchased it.
I appreciate any help or advice in advanced.
SCROLL TO BOTTOM FOR MY FEEDBACK ON THE KIT
I purchased the Eibach Pro Truck lift kit the other day so below is a quick how to on the process and some initial feedback I have on the kit. My truck has 75k miles and I knew before purchasing anything I had a blown rear shock. I wanted to lift my truck higher so instead of purchasing OEM equipment and adding more rough country spacers (already had a 2" lower up front), I saw the Eibach kit. It included everything to complete a reasonable 2.5" lift AND included new springs for less than $600. From my tuner days, Eibach was the go-to for lowering springs, I assume they know what they are doing plus they are American made, can't go wrong. The struts are adjustable like Bilsteins so this was the best option for achieving the lift I wanted. With the Eibach springs and the struts at their lowest setting, my truck would be 2.5" higher according to the instructions. Also, the rear shocks in the kit, safely handle a +1" lift in the rear. This is what I wanted!
Since I was already touching every other suspension component, I figured I might as well add the 2" rear blocks I've been eyeing so I bought those direct from RC.
Truck set up before project:
20" wheels, Falken AT3W 33" tires, RC 2" lower spacer with stock struts and shocks one of which is completely blown. The ride was sloppy, pulling into driveways or other major bumps my truck was rocking and rolling, signs my stock set up was done. I would wince before hitting large bumps on Chicago expressways knowing my cage was about to get rattle. The 20" wheels and heavier tires aren't helping but the dampers needed to be retired.
Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit: E80-23-006-02-22
Includes new springs, new monotube struts, and new monotube rear shocks. Also includes new king nuts for struts and bump stop collars for reusing OEM bump stop. https://eibach.com/us/i-8809-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html
Rough Country: 6532 (2" rear blocks)
Includes new u-bolts, washers, nuts, and 2" tapered rear blocks No link, this is the rear blocks from their leveling kit, you have to order over the phone. Side note, RC folks are REALLY nice on the phone. If your are uncomfortable working on compressed springs do not attempt the strut disassembly yourself. Take them to a shop. I've done several spring projects in my life and understand how dangerous they can be. Be safe and take the necessary precautions and where the right PPE. If the compressors fail, they should fail in an open area, not in front of you. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. I am not responsible for misuse of the below info.
Eye protection and hand protection Pneumatic gun Spring compressors pry bar jack and jack stands Sockets 10 mm and 15 mm all the way up to a deep 22 mm Wrenches 15 mm all the way up to 22 mm A friend, loved one, kid, someone to help. I did this work by myself and it took me probably 6 hours in total, would've been half that with a second set of hands. Before you do any suspension work, always take measurement from fender to ground or from fender to top of wheel. This gives you baseline measurements to calculate your final lifts.
Rears (blocks and shocks):
1. Jack your car up on both sides. Put on jack stands. You want the rear axle to drop straight down. Only doing one side at a time will be an issue, I learned the hard way.
2. Doing one side of the truck at a time, remove the upper shock bolt (the nut is welded, just remove bolt) and the bottom bolt/nut. Shock should pop right out with some love. 3. Place a car jack under the differential. Remove the (4) 21 MM bolts on the factory u-bolts. Again only on one side at a time.
3. SLOWLY lower the rear differential to allow enough room to remove the stock blocks. Watch your brake lines, you have some play but not too much.
4. Before installing the new block, clean the alignment pin and hole on your truck. Mine had a lot of dirt and salt. A wire brush cleaned it right up. I also sprayed it down with WD40 for good measure.
5. Once the block is installed and lined up, slowly raise your diff back up. If your blocks are tapered make sure the taller side of the block is closer to the rear of the truck. Install the new u-bolts and torque the new 22 mm nuts down in an alternating pattern. Old block next to new blocks below.
6. Install the new rear shocks, start at the top then do the bottom. I had to compress the shocks about 1/2" to get the bottom bolt in.
7. Repeat on other side then your done.
I took the truck for a quick test drive to test out everything. No shutter, no issues. Picture below of my old shocks next tot he new, one looks blown...
Time for the fun part, the fronts!
Fronts (struts and springs):
1. Unbolt the 3 nuts on the top of the strut. Easy access through the engine bay. You can remove these before the car is lifted without issue. Leave the outside nut hand tight to prevent your strut from dropping out.
2. Jack up one side of car and remove wheel.
3. Unbolt the sway bar end link, tie rod end, two bolts on bottom strut mount, and the upper control arm ball joint. The UCA will need a BFH (code for hammer) to help it out. Leave the nut finger tight so the UCA doesn't shoot out of knuckle right away. Some people say you can do this without removing the UCA but I just couldn't see how that could be done in my application.
4. If you're by yourself place a car jack under the knuckle, remove UCA ball joint nut and slowly lower front hub assembly, there should be plenty of room to remove the strut now. I used a jack stand to hold the hub assembly while I unscrewed the top nut on the strut and carefully remove it. Once the strut is out, loosely reattach the UCA to the hub so you can leave it for a while.
5. With a permanent marker, draw a line down the strut assembling marking everything. The line should be on the outside face of the strut assembly. This is your index line, when you transplant these pieces to your new strut they should all line up. If they don't you messed something up.
6. Now the dangerous stuff, install your McPherson spring compressors on the stock spring, try to grab coils that are far from each other as the spring will be easier to compress. Compressors should be 180 degrees from each other to ensure even loading.
7. Put on all your PPE, say a pray, and start tightening the spring compressors until you see a gap between spring and strut per mounts. Treat loaded springs like a gun, never point it at anyone and try not to drop it, jostle it, anything that could affect the compressors grip. Personal note, when I am doing dangerous stuff in my garage I either text someone letting them know what I am doing and text them after I am done or tell my wife if shes inside to check on me occasionally.
8. After you remove the king nut, open up the compressors, you can toss the springs. You will need to remove the upper assembly of the strut (top mount, bracket, spring boot, and bump stop). You will also need to remove the lower spring perch. Do this by gently tapping the perch towards the top of the strut to release it. PB blaster helps speed this up.
9. Prepare the Eibach struts. These are adjustable to dial in your final ride hide. In my application, when used with Eibach springs, the bottom level (lowest setting) will achieve a 2.5" lift up front. Snap ring was moved into the bottom grove and collar installed. The lower perch from OEM strut was installed.
10. There is a metal collar inside the yellow bump stop, pull this metal piece out and replace with the one supplied by Eibach. The shaft is bigger on Eibach struts so the collar needs to be upsized.
11. Dangerous part 2, install the compressors on your Eibach spring. Again try to grab coils that are far apart to ease the compression process. I believe the springs needed to be compressed 1/2" to fit on the strut. This was the most nerve wrecking part of this project. The compressors have seen better days. Those bends are pretty ugly.
12. Once compressed start lining up the strut, inside rubber boot, bracket, and top mount. Your line you drew earlier should all line up with the outside face of the strut. Make sure the bottom of the spring is fully seated on the perch plate.
13. Install top metal spacer/washer from OEM strut and new king nut provided by Eibach. Tighten down nut then your good to unload the springs. Once the springs compressors are removed the scary part for that strut is over.
14. Remove the nut on the UCA and reinstall your strut. Have at least one bottom strut mount bolt available so once you get the strut lined up, you can throw a bolt on the hole to keep things in place.
15. Reverse the beginning steps with the reassembly of the hub parts. You'll will need a pry bar braced on the spring to hold the UCA down firmly into the top of the hub so you can tighten the nut without the ball joint spinning.
16. Repeat on other side.
17. Take your truck for a quick test drive, if no noises or issues, take in for an alignment.
18. Take final measurements to confirm relatively even lift. Drivers side may be lower due to gas tank.
Final thoughts on the upgrade:
I am absolutely in love with the kit. I've been putting off replacing shocks for a while, so glad I finally did this project. Dare I say, Eibach MDFA? (Made Driving Fun Again...) Like I mentioned above, I was beginning to notice I was wincing before hitting big bumps because of how loosey-goosey my suspension had become since I bought it. The Eibach kit firmed up the ride noticeably. At slow speeds I do feel small bumps which is a given with monotubes, 20" wheels, and aggressive tires. At speed, the dampers turned those crazy earth shattering/dash destroying bumps on Chicago expressways into muffled bumps on the road. Also the dampers recover quickly. Driving into parking lots or steep driveways, my truck you to rock back and forth, now the truck rocks and correct quickly. No over correction. I would highly recommended this kit as an alternative to the Bilstein kit. If your looking to lift your truck, its hard to beat this package.
Overall very happy with the kit and how it turned out. Excited to get some off road time this hunting season! I filmed the install and will be posting the video when its edited.
By Perry Lawson
Hey guys, first post here! I am looking at lifting my 2015 1500 Z71 4x4 and started out by looking at leveling kits and then progressed to a 3.5" lift kit and then just decided to do the Fabtech 4" budget kit but I have a question, the strut spacers only look like they are 2" or so tall and I was concerned that this lift isn't a true 4" lift kit. Also I was concerned that the control arms don't adjust the ball joint angles because they look like they have the same geometry as stock.
If any of yall have experience with this lift kit could you let me know if it is a true 4'' lift in the front or does it just bring it level bc the strut spacers don't look like they would give 4". I was turned onto this kit bc of the price and the 4" height but now I have concerns whether or not it is a true 4"
Really hoping to find some help with this. I recently was gifted an '04 1500 LS RWD EXT Cab with 107k on the clock. It is INSANELY low. Blows my mind how low it is. It looks more like an El Camino. I need to lift it.
So, do I lift the suspension and body, or just the suspension, or just the body? I won't be taking this thing off road, so I assume a Rough Country kit should be fine, right? Do I need a leveling kit as well?
What would you guys do in my shoes? I'd like it to sit a littler higher than a standard truck.
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