Jump to content

Rear window leak

Demon
 Share

Recommended Posts

GN2018 Enthusiast

GN2018

Posted
Posted (edited)
44 minutes ago, 2016 Sierra Owner said:

The motor stays. The window has a gearbox and cables that attaches to the motor. Separate the gearbox from the motor  and remove the window.


Is there anything you can do to repurpose the switch that used to open the slider?  Or, is that just a dead switch now?

Edited by GN2018
  • Replies 3.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

Posted Images

2016 Sierra Owner Senior Enthusiast

2016 Sierra Owner

Posted
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, GN2018 said:


Is there anything you can do to repurpose the switch that used to open the slider?  Or, is that just a dead switch now?

Probably just a dead switch. It's more than likely connected to the BCM and that would require someone to program it to do something else if possible.

Edited by 2016 Sierra Owner
spell
  • Thanks 1
bfontenot9 Enthusiast

bfontenot9

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, 2016 Sierra Owner said:

Probably just a dead switch. It's more than likely connected to the BCM and that would require someone to program it to do something else if possible.

I had the dealership replace the slider with a solid window, but now my interior lights don’t work. Wondering if having that slider components completed some kind of circuit, or if it’s something else unrelated. Anyone else have this issue?

  • 2 weeks later...
Ritchie Brown Enthusiast

Ritchie Brown

Posted
Posted
On 4/9/2022 at 8:54 PM, Jrodpic said:

I highly suggest anyone with a rear window leak buy some of the Trim-Lok .25” solid tubing and put it in the top gap of the spoiler. Was a cheap easy fix for me that worked for over a year and a half.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NL4D2T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JPZ941D56Z6QBW5JNSPD

I have a small leak. No headliner staining. My truck is parked inside most of the time so I don’t really want the dealership tearing my truck apart 4 or 5 times and possibly making it worse. I’m interested in this trim-lok meathod. Do you just put the trim-lok in the gap between the spoiler and window or do you mean the gap around the spoiler on top of the truck. Is any sealant used? Thanks for the help in advance.

  • 2 months later...
DTopGun515 New Member

DTopGun515

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have a service bulletin number that I can reference to get this fixed on my truck? I just called one dealer and they didn’t act like there was anything available. I’ve got a 2020 Sierra and don’t want to come out of my own pocket to fix this.

SPASierra Enthusiast

SPASierra

Posted
Posted
32 minutes ago, DTopGun515 said:

Does anyone have a service bulletin number that I can reference to get this fixed on my truck? I just called one dealer and they didn’t act like there was anything available. I’ve got a 2020 Sierra and don’t want to come out of my own pocket to fix this.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10180301-9999.pdf

  • 3 months later...
Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted

I am unfortunately here with the rest of you with the same problem on my 2019 Silverado RST.  I will be implementing the TSB fix myself since I'm at 41,000 miles.  Apparently the leak has been there for quite some time and I didn't know.

 

I called my local dealer, Payne Chevrolet in Springfield, TN and asked them if they had either of the required sealers in stock.  They said no.  I asked what was I supposed to do if I can't get them easily and you don't have them. He said, you would have to order them, and then hung up on me.   Amazing customer service when every truck has the problem, GM won't take responsibility and they won't even help you with parts.

IMG_7257.jpg

outrag1 Enthusiast

outrag1

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, Codeman00 said:

I am unfortunately here with the rest of you with the same problem on my 2019 Silverado RST.  I will be implementing the TSB fix myself since I'm at 41,000 miles.  Apparently the leak has been there for quite some time and I didn't know.

 

I called my local dealer, Payne Chevrolet in Springfield, TN and asked them if they had either of the required sealers in stock.  They said no.  I asked what was I supposed to do if I can't get them easily and you don't have them. He said, you would have to order them, and then hung up on me.   Amazing customer service when every truck has the problem, GM won't take responsibility and they won't even help you with parts.

IMG_7257.jpg

 

Do you have the rear slider?  

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, outrag1 said:

 

Do you have the rear slider?  

Yes.  Why, did I miss something in the 230 pages that I need to know?

 

Edited by Codeman00
outrag1 Enthusiast

outrag1

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, Codeman00 said:

Yes.  Why, did I miss something in the 230 pages that I need to know?

 

No, I just couldn't tell from your truck description or the picture.  There are questions on whether "some" leaks come from the spoiler holes in the roof, but it appears the bulk of the evidence here is from the rear slider frame itself.  Best of luck with the fix.  The write up on this forum is excellent.

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, outrag1 said:

No, I just couldn't tell from your truck description or the picture.  There are questions on whether "some" leaks come from the spoiler holes in the roof, but it appears the bulk of the evidence here is from the rear slider frame itself.  Best of luck with the fix.  The write up on this forum is excellent.

Much appreciated!  I can actually see the cracks on the inside looking up at the window channel from inside the truck....so I'm positive I have the same cracks on top under the spoiler. I plan to tackle this project tomorrow, fill the channel with sealant...and I'll report back. 

  • Like 1
bfontenot9 Enthusiast

bfontenot9

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Codeman00 said:

I am unfortunately here with the rest of you with the same problem on my 2019 Silverado RST.  I will be implementing the TSB fix myself since I'm at 41,000 miles.  Apparently the leak has been there for quite some time and I didn't know.

 

I called my local dealer, Payne Chevrolet in Springfield, TN and asked them if they had either of the required sealers in stock.  They said no.  I asked what was I supposed to do if I can't get them easily and you don't have them. He said, you would have to order them, and then hung up on me.   Amazing customer service when every truck has the problem, GM won't take responsibility and they won't even help you with parts.

IMG_7257.jpg

As one of many that have gone through multiple attempts and methods to “fix” the leak, your best bet is just to replace the slider glass with a solid glass. The first 3 “fixes” lasted anywhere from 2 to 6 months before it started leaking again. On my 4th attempt, I had a solid glass installed. It’s been almost a year and haven’t had any leaks. Saves a lot of headache too!

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, bfontenot9 said:

As one of many that have gone through multiple attempts and methods to “fix” the leak, your best bet is just to replace the slider glass with a solid glass. The first 3 “fixes” lasted anywhere from 2 to 6 months before it started leaking again. On my 4th attempt, I had a solid glass installed. It’s been almost a year and haven’t had any leaks. Saves a lot of headache too!

 

That is VERY disappointing to hear, but good to know going forward.  I can see the crack and it corresponds to where the water is coming in...so hopefully....hopefully that will take care of it.  Time will tell.  Sorry you had to go back to a solid glass.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      /facepalm

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...