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Posted
3 hours ago, Dakkine2 said:

Check your chime volume in vehicle settings. Mine was turned down to an inaudible volume when I got it back. Not sure if the shop turned it down or it defaulted to that level.

I looked yesterday for a chime tone volume adjustment but didn't see it & was wondering if they even had one. After reading your post I checked again & it was under the Vehicle tab instead of the System tab. It was at the halfway mark so I put it to around 2/3 - 3/4 & it's audible now. So thanks Dakkine2 for that.

 

Something I did notice though, I could've swore before that the alert tone for the Front Park Assist & Rear Cross Traffic Alert was steady before, where now it's several one second beeps. Was I imagining that or is it different with the Nav-TV installed? Perhaps they're substituting their own tone instead of passing the factory tone through.

 

Posted
On 12/9/2020 at 4:27 PM, JMO76 said:

I looked yesterday for a chime tone volume adjustment but didn't see it & was wondering if they even had one. After reading your post I checked again & it was under the Vehicle tab instead of the System tab. It was at the halfway mark so I put it to around 2/3 - 3/4 & it's audible now. So thanks Dakkine2 for that.

 

Something I did notice though, I could've swore before that the alert tone for the Front Park Assist & Rear Cross Traffic Alert was steady before, where now it's several one second beeps. Was I imagining that or is it different with the Nav-TV installed? Perhaps they're substituting their own tone instead of passing the factory tone through.

 

The NAV TV unit just like any other integration piece for cars and trucks, just reads the data signal and then create its own output. So if their warning chimes are multiple one second beeps then that’s what you get. I’ve heard that NAV TV’s customer service is pretty good. If you have questions about the unit, or what may have changed since it was installed, I would recommend giving them a call. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/13/2020 at 10:15 PM, Ecroofing01 said:

Nav Tv is the biggest piece of ******. I’m having to go back to the stock Bose amp because they sold us something that doesn’t work no matter what you do. I switched fromToslink to RCA. Worked for a few days and now I have nothing. I’m over it. We’ve done all their updates. They don’t work. Do Not Use NAV TV

Did you try switching the NavTv unit connection from toslink to rca and still have the problem?  I contacted them and they told me switching to RCA would resolve the problem but before I go through the trouble I want to know if that will fix it.

Posted
4 minutes ago, TNAT4 said:

Did you try switching the NavTv unit connection from toslink to rca and still have the problem?  I contacted them and they told me switching to RCA would resolve the problem but before I go through the trouble I want to know if that will fix it.

No I did not fix it. Their product does not work period 

Posted
5 hours ago, Ecroofing01 said:

No I did not fix it. Their product does not work period 

I've had mine in for almost 2 weeks and it's still going. Maybe you just had a bad unit. It happens from time to time with anything.

Posted
Yes, I have one of there T-harnesses from my previous 15 Yukon and it works good for adding a sub. Currently I have a 19 HC and really want to “Un Bose” and get a good clean flat signal. I have not figured out how to turn off the “speed regulated volume” on this one. Always seems counterintuitive for the volume to go up with speed and then the bass rolls off with that, really annoying.
I changed my radio and ditched the bose amp. Used a amp bypass harness to 1 4ch amp for speakers and 1 amp for subs. Sooooooo much better

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
3 hours ago, JMO76 said:

I've had mine in for almost 2 weeks and it's still going. Maybe you just had a bad unit. It happens from time to time with anything.

They replaced it and it still would screw up. Good luck 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Ecroofing01 said:

They replaced it and it still would screw up. Good luck 

Going by the number of people on here who have them vs the number having major issues, it doesn't appear to be widespread. It's frustrating for sure to spend that kind of money and have it not work, but it's not like this is a simple device either, and there's most certainly no help from GM to develop it, as they seem to be on anti-modification year as of late.

 

As I believe I explained in a past post, according to one of their engineers they had a run of chips they ordered that while not out of spec, weren't made specific to what they ordered. In other words, they were in tolerance, but for a device as sensitive as this, just being in tolerance isn't good enough and can cause issues. And there was no way to identify the difference between which chips were on spec & which were in tolerance by looking at them. So it would be possible to have two devices in a row that had issues.

 

I know it doesn't change your circumstances, but custom devices like this are much more complicated than an amp or a DSP, so there's going to be a greater chance of issues.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I've never understood why car manufacturers are so anti-aftermarket audio and do nothing to make it easier for the owner to add his own sound system. It's probably a liability thing,who knows? 

 

Personally I think it would be a good selling point if a manufacturer provided the necessary RCA's and speaker harnesses for adding your own gear.

 

I get a kick out of reading posts that boast about how good the Bose sound systems are.It's quite obvious in many cases that the person either works for Bose or GM or both. I've been around car audio for 30 years and have won competitions.I can tell you with absolute certainty that Bose OEM sound systems don't even come close to comparing to a properly installed,high quality aftermarket system.The simple 2-way front and sub set-up in my current vehicle that is only around 800 watts total absolutely blows people away that listen to it. 

Edited by JH1973
Posted
On 12/19/2020 at 8:05 AM, Ecroofing01 said:

You’re funny, most people have problems with them. You’re either super optimistic or work for them. 

I posted a reply earlier but apparently the forum ate it, so I'll try again.

 

Or I have experience in both electronics and manufacturing custom electronics solutions (in my case, in commercial buildings). Having a bad batch of electronic components happens quite frequently. And it's not necessarily that they're completely bad, either. All electronics components have a tolerance eating, ranging from 1% to 20% of what it's rated at. So a 10 ohm resistor for example could be as much as 2 ohms off (8 ohms or 12 ohms), which depending on the circuit could drastically alter it's operation. For hobbyist electronics tolerances are fairly high, but for complex or important devices it needs to be very low, say like in the defense or healthcare industry. In Nav-TV's device, it needs to have tight tolerances for proper operation and the component provider shipped them something looser than they wanted, which is causing intermittent issues.

 

And from now on, drop the condescension from your posts. Just because someone doesn't agree with you on this matter, or any for that matter, it doesn't mean they have an ulterior motive and work for who you're railing against. It just means maybe they have more experience or knowledge on the matter than you do. But I have had that accusation leveled at me before (you must work for them). If that were true, then I not only work for Nav-TV, but also for Google, Elemental Designs, Chevy, GMC, Marvel or DC depending on the argument, and the list goes on. Apparently that's becoming a thing now, "Don't agree with me, you must work for them" because the only other explanation would be that you're wrong, and that just NOT possible. We spoke before I installed the device when I was asking how people who had them were fairing with them and their thoughts on it. That was several months ago. So do you really think an employee of the company would make posts like that, wait several months and then make it sound like they'd bought it & so far had a good experience with it? No, they wait a week or two & then rave about it. The reason I waited to install it was because the shop I wanted to use kept having employees come down with Covid, & I had to wait for JL Audio to build a stealthbox, which apparently they do for all their stealthboxes. They don't make them & put them on a shelf ahead of time, but make them after an order comes in, which takes around 4-5 weeks from order to delivery. Add to that I live in the middle of South Dakota, so it's doubtful I also work for Nav-TV. In fact I'd never heard of them until this board. I was going to use a JL Audio Fix86 to reshape the sound, but this appeared to be a better option, especially since PAC Audio hasn't put out anything for these trucks.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ya those Navs have had issues and ya we pay a ton but if you do the install properly and work the kinks out yourself as well as with the company it’s audio bliss at the end!!
I enjoy it and would recommend it if someone is looking for the best quality out of your system.

My negatives are the system off pops. There has to be a way to fix that. As well as the delay from door open to turning all the units involved in the system to the chimes turning on. Well that one is more of an annoyance cause I know they should be chiming immediately but there are too many things turning on for it to be instantaneous.

Positives and negatives to everything whomever is looking just weight them both out and take your bet. For me it’s absolutely the NavTV. I used both methods btw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
7 minutes ago, Chewpeg said:

Ya those Navs have had issues and ya we pay a ton but if you do the install properly and work the kinks out yourself as well as with the company it’s audio bliss at the end!!
I enjoy it and would recommend it if someone is looking for the best quality out of your system.

My negatives are the system off pops. There has to be a way to fix that. As well as the delay from door open to turning all the units involved in the system to the chimes turning on. Well that one is more of an annoyance cause I know they should be chiming immediately but there are too many things turning on for it to be instantaneous.

Positives and negatives to everything whomever is looking just weight them both out and take your bet. For me it’s absolutely the NavTV. I used both methods btw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have any system off pops. I've had those in the past, usually caused by a ground loop & using a ground loop isolator or a 12V relay on the remote turn on wire solves the issue. Nav-TV does recommend using one in the manual, & I would've anyway as I'm turning on both an amp and a cooling fan, so maybe that's why I don't have the turn off pops issue.

 

I do have some audio squeal from the speakers, but only with the volume all the way up and the music paused, even then you have to strain to hear it. It almost sounds like the old radio squeal when you'd try to tune in a radio station. I'm guessing it's a byproduct of the digital to analog conversion.

 

As for the chime delay, it seems to be about 2 seconds from door open to my cooling fan kicking on and the chime tones activating. 

 

So far haven't had any issues with losing audio or it just outright dying, so knock on wood. The engineer at Nav-TV told me they had chips from their supplier that had 2 different tolerance specs. Some were on spec, some were in tolerance, meaning their we close to spec but a little bit off. They have software patches for each, but since they're not easy to identify without hooking them up to testing equipment, they'd have to try one patch & if it doesn't fix the issue try the other one. Some may argue they should've forced the supplier to supply them with the correct on spec chips, but unless you're a large company, you're at the mercy of the chip suppliers. That or you'll pay a ton to get tighter tolerances in my experiences.

Posted
On 12/19/2020 at 5:58 AM, cmysstailights said:

I changed my radio and ditched the bose amp. Used a amp bypass harness to 1 4ch amp for speakers and 1 amp for subs. Sooooooo much better

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

You swapped the entire head unit? what did you go with to replace it? 

 

Posted
You swapped the entire head unit? what did you go with to replace it? 
 
Yes, got rid of the factory radio. I went with pioneer avic8400nex. And use all of the features. Everything i needed for upgrade came to just over 900. I have a high country 2500.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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