Jump to content

LED Light Bar Installation Options

pcontant
 Share

Recommended Posts

pcontant Enthusiast

pcontant

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just got 2019 Sierra Elevation. Looking at options to install a 20 or 22” LED light bar. Had one in my bumper opening on my 2012 2500 HD and found it indispensable for night time driving in the backwoods.  Has anyone installed one yet?  Share your pictures of your setup if you have. 

 

Thanks!

Edited by pcontant
  • 5 months later...
pcontant Enthusiast

pcontant

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After months of waiting for a company to make brackets or someone to share ideas on a led bar install, I finally installed one today.  (Auxbeam 22” Curved) I cut a hole in the lower bumper plastic, made simple brackets, wired a relay (with freewheeling diode) off the high beams and voilà!!! The Sierra lights are very poor, especially in high beam - the lights create a blacked out horizontal band that drives me crazy.  Not anymore. 

A4CD7472-73F8-444F-B9E5-76E5A4D662C0.jpeg

1B5B251D-9522-4771-937D-250CBF834A06.jpeg

  • Like 2
jordanl010 Enthusiast

jordanl010

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, pcontant said:

After months of waiting for a company to make brackets or someone to share ideas on a led bar install, I finally installed one today.  (Auxbeam 22” Curved) I cut a hole in the lower bumper plastic, made simple brackets, wired a relay (with freewheeling diode) off the high beams and voilà!!! The Sierra lights are very poor, especially in high beam - the lights create a blacked out horizontal band that drives me crazy.  Not anymore. 

A4CD7472-73F8-444F-B9E5-76E5A4D662C0.jpeg

1B5B251D-9522-4771-937D-250CBF834A06.jpeg

 

Where did you wire your switch for this light bar? Or is it ran off your high beams? 

Edited by jordanl010
pcontant Enthusiast

pcontant

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ran relay control off my high beam and ran the relay control ground into the cab incase I want to have high beam without the led bar. 

5662E330-A25A-49FD-9FCE-78FD86AAAA40.jpeg

PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted

I'm going with a Rigid Industries SAE compliant 20 or 30 inch.

 

1.15 inches tall.  higher end setup...

 

https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-series-20-dual-function-sae-auxilary-high-beam-driving-lights-920413.html

 

 

otherwise.... i would wait and let the market mature and catch up....  still lots of manufactures designing 2019 specific systems...

 

here's one for chevy that's very clean...

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/chevy-led-grille-kit-70817c.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwtuLrBRAlEiwAPVcZBilzSWGsteTAICdb4PmgnQ7U1L2hXBulORJ01Zqml9CgUXUfN0cfJhoCLLgQAvD_BwE&find=2019-gmc-sierra-1500-4wd-381260&sid=TfQY3m53yw

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
On 9/12/2019 at 8:15 PM, pcontant said:

Nice light (RIGID) but too expensive for me. I really like that RC Chevy setup.

yea RC setup is clean.

 

RI is big money... agree...  quality is there though..  

 

  • 4 months later...
2k19Sierra Enthusiast

2k19Sierra

Posted
Posted
On 9/7/2019 at 10:04 PM, pcontant said:

After months of waiting for a company to make brackets or someone to share ideas on a led bar install, I finally installed one today.  (Auxbeam 22” Curved) I cut a hole in the lower bumper plastic, made simple brackets, wired a relay (with freewheeling diode) off the high beams and voilà!!! The Sierra lights are very poor, especially in high beam - the lights create a blacked out horizontal band that drives me crazy.  Not anymore. 

A4CD7472-73F8-444F-B9E5-76E5A4D662C0.jpeg

1B5B251D-9522-4771-937D-250CBF834A06.jpeg

Any chance you have some photos of the brackets you made and where you mounted them too?  This looks to me like the best place for a light bar on these trucks but nervous about cutting into the bumper...

  • 5 months later...
Guyat4 New Member

Guyat4

Posted
Posted

Did you have to remove the plastic piece that was cut out to mount the light? Or can I cut out with it on the truck. I have a 2020 GMC At4 and would like to mount the same light as you did.

 

Thanks!

  • 1 month later...
EXSlider400 Senior Enthusiast

EXSlider400

Posted
Posted (edited)

Does anybody know of any aftermarket inserts made for light bars? Apparently we cannot order the bumpers off the Harley edition trucks.

9F4FE138-6D0B-474A-AB65-93A5845C5BD3.jpeg

B539F83C-DEEF-499C-86F1-0EA17B412FA4.jpeg

Edited by EXSlider400
pcontant Enthusiast

pcontant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/26/2020 at 3:00 PM, Guyat4 said:

Did you have to remove the plastic piece that was cut out to mount the light? Or can I cut out with it on the truck. I have a 2020 GMC At4 and would like to mount the same light as you did.

 

Thanks!

I cut the opening without removing anything.  Worked out well!

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 years later...
GregB65 New Member

GregB65

Posted
Posted

Does your truck have the Duramax 3.0?  I am wanting to do the same thing, but understand that this opening is for cooling the engine.  If you do have the 3.0, has your truck run any hotter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...