Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey,

 

Iv seen a bunch of posts about setting up a dual battery system and what to use, and i understand all that.

Problem is i keep seeing articles about standard relay style isolators and smart isolators (VSR) not working if you have a "smart alternator" because of the fluctuations from the alternator based on driving conditions, and therefore have to go and spend a load on a DC-DC charger. $50 vs $300

 

Anyone have any issues with their standard relay style or smart isolators on their dual battery setup?

 

Articles below,

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/auxiliary-battery-charging-in-vehicles-with-smart-alternators.html

https://www.redarc.com.au/faq-tech-tips/new-vehicles-technology-can-affect-dual-battery-systems-charging-performanc

Posted

Not sure many here have donethe dual battery upgrade or even have it from factory. I've been contemplating it tho.just can't see taxing the factory system.

Posted

I have dual batteries and a isolator. It is wired with a small switch and a small relay. I have it so on a normal day the factory acc wire powers it and two batteries start truck. When truck is of it is disconnected. The switch is if I try to start truck and factory battery is dead then the acc wire is dead. So small wire from the 2nd battery powers isolator and starts truck. 

I have used this one day all day. Every time I stopped the truck it wouldn't start. Push button and truck starts right up. After that day the truck charged the factory batter enough to be ok. But I said screw it and ordered a yellow top. 

Issue us the smart alternator and more importantly the bcm program only sees the factory battery till the the key is turned then it tries to play catch up. Real issue I hear most is if one battery dies it will take out the other or the alternator will be in higher amp output to play catch up. 

Posted

I had dual batteries on an old truck, that I just wired up in parallel. No real issues, but that tech was much different than the current one, so I can't give you any current info. I have not installed a second battery on my new truck as my plow doesn't strain the electrical system too much.

 

I would recommend you check out this forum for plow guys, there are several threads about installing dual batteries on there. Caution, the forum is full of a bunch of grumpy old-timers!

 

https://www.plowsite.com/forums/chevy-trucks.6/

 

Posted

I had 2 batteries left over from my old truck with a sound system so I threw it under my hood just for the hell of it. I put a 200a fuse between the positive line and ran it along the positive line that comes across the firewall at the top. For ground I ran it on the same path back to the OEM battery on the passenger side. I just had to buy the battery wedge and bolt from ebay as I have a 14 with the battery tray already installed it just doesn't come with the hold down bolt or wedge. I used 4ga OFC stranded wire, the same you would use for amplifiers. I also ran the positive wire through the OEM hall effect sensor so it didn't mess with the charging system by bypassing it. You can only fit at most a 2ga wire through the sensor with the OEM wires in there as well so be advised of that.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • 2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...