Jump to content

Turbo 6.2 almost done!!

DenaliX14

By DenaliX14
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@ShortyMatt, Is 100% correct. As my truck was sitting in my driveway with bent pushrods & collapsed lifters I started joining Truck forums and reading about known issues on trucks variants. So I started buying more and more upgrades. They dropped into a few buckets. Induction, Cooling, Fuel, drivetrain, driveline etc. OnallCylinders was very helpful for topics when and where things get weak or run out.  For example Fuel tends to run out around 600-650. You'll need injectors, low side and high side pumps.  I knew I would eventually need them so I got them lol.

 

Missing the Gasket was just me not realizing and being excited that I now have a 7.0 vs 6.2 block. Honestly TSP should have recommended or shipped them with the block. 

 

@truckguy82 Yeah LT1's L86's are mostly identical however, any variant needs to have upgraded internals when going under extreme boost. Anybody boosting their block needs to think about upgrading rods, pistons and possibly crank. It will be the monster under your bead every day that one day it'll climb out and bite you. Also, the trucks weigh a lot more :), the truck is always going to have to work harder. Which makes a huge difference. 

 

Take my engine for example. On a dyno it will make 1200 HP easy. Put that engine into my truck and it will only put down 900 Wheel. Now put my engine into a corvette. It will put down 1100+ Wheel power NO PROBLEM. 

 

Okay same thought. Take a stock internal 6.2L Boosted block 700-800 Wheel engine from a corvette and put it into my truck. Tune it to 800 Wheel and you're going to start breaking things. As a reigning Forum champion you should already know this....

 

@ROB_IS_KING I would recommend James any day. He's is a trusted professional with ample experience. 

  • Replies 207
  • Created
  • Last Reply
truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted

I did forget completely forget about drivetrain loss, great point!

 

rough calculations through various dynos.

vette’s are losing about 13% to drivetrain

our trucks about 22%, and thats in rwd, no idea in awd.

 

700whp = 900-925hp crank in our trucks

800-825hp crank in the vette

 

Although it should still be able to take that no problem, it is definitely more possible it was not their fault.

 

 

  • 1 month later...
DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Man, forgot to update. Truck is running great. Almost through the new engine break-in period. Even with low boost right now this thing pulls like a rocket ship. 

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
On 12/24/2019 at 12:56 PM, DenaliX14 said:

Man, forgot to update. Truck is running great. Almost through the new engine break-in period. Even with low boost right now this thing pulls like a rocket ship. 

Have you done awd or 4wd launch yet?

DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still breaking in the new 427. Have to keep it mild for now. Once the piston rings are broken in it’ll be time to raise hell. I’ll put up a few videos tomorrow. I’m going to try and put  another couple hundred Miles on it. 
 

I will say even under 4K rpm on AWD it sticks like glue and will put a smile on your face. 2wd has been sketchy at best. The tires act like they’re on ice. 

Pt187 Enthusiast

Pt187

Posted
Posted

Very nice build bud. Sounds badass. Cam sounds huge for a turbo build 

DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 hours ago, Pt187 said:

Very nice build bud. Sounds badass. Cam sounds huge for a turbo build 

It's actually a pretty mild cam. Texas Speed and Performance SV cam. Specs are 223/227 @ .635 & 116 LSA. W/ 30% fuel lobe. It does shake the truck a little  at idle :). 

DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

Need a speedo/launch video!!

100%. Once I have the new tune and know it's stable .. . . . . . all bets are off  ON!!

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted

Need to get yourself in one of those groups that goes out on the highway at night time and does roll racing with supercars. I’d do it just once and make a good video. Would be hilarious pulling on lambo’s

DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
47 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

Need to get yourself in one of those groups that goes out on the highway at night time and does roll racing with supercars. I’d do it just once and make a good video. Would be hilarious pulling on lambo’s

I love being a sleeper. Had a blue FRS try to pull off on me and I got a little into boot around 3500 rpms. Left him picking up his doors. You'd never know it until you hear the fighter jet taking off under the hood. 

 

I do need to figure out how to kill the drone the exhaust causes. Either I need to get a new one or It's the lack of tune. 

ShortyMatt Enthusiast

ShortyMatt

Posted
Posted

Love your build dude.  It really came together.  Yeah the traction in 2wd forget it this time of year.  No f-ing way.  The wide summer tires I had on for all of 2 weeks before it started snowing helped tremendously but I'm back on the stock a/ts.  What are you doing for axle wrap?  The bottom plate is gonna be pointed at your oil pan with all that hp... hahah.  But seriously it's been a noticeable issue even with my current power level so I hope the caltrac bars I just got but haven't installed yet fix it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      That’s what I’m wondering is if the stock backspacing of the factory wheels will clear new upper control arms and such  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...