Jump to content

Turbo 6.2 almost done!!


DenaliX14

Recommended Posts

Posted
30 minutes ago, ShortyMatt said:

Easiest is to check out my build page  - It's short, and the turbo build starts the middle of page 1.  Still need to update with my new wheels/tires.

 

I'm thrilled with the results.  I'm have a 5.3 and had some minor bolt-ons and a a remote tune...  dyno-ed at 318whp before the turbo.  450Whp and 490wt after.  It's a monster.  The only downside is turbo lag in comparison to a supercharger, but you can turn the power up higher with a turbo.

 

 

Thanks for the quick read!  Do you worry about having your air filter so low and exposed to the elements living in New England winters?  Did the cost come out to somewhere around what they quoted me?

  • Replies 207
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
1 hour ago, ShortyMatt said:

I'm curious as to your expertise on this matter.  In your opinion, how many years of lurking on truck forums equals one year of professional wrenching? 

Experience just in regards to engine building And wrenchinh

-2 years of mechanic school for the hell of it, which included engine rebuilds


-usaf kc-135 hydraulic tech 4 years (the most complicated hydraulic system on any aircraft that I know of)

 

-Built 4 shortblocks and 3 heads for my own vehicles, while they were all honda, they saw 3x-5x their factory output on large amounts of boost using turbo systems I built and self tuned using uberdata and neptune. I even soldered in my own zif sockets in my ecu’s.

 

-Extensive forum experience

 

Forums are information sharing, and powerful tools. 
 

I can be damn sure that building a motor is not voodoo magic. Fact of the matter is, if they blew it up right after the build, it’s is a 99.99% chance they screwed up the engine build or the tuning session. Judging by his specific problems, sounds like the bearing clearances but could have been several things.

 

If it was, say, a ferrari 488, where the information available to us about motors is very limited, that’s one thing.

 

An engine in which several hundred thousand were built and 100’s modified to that power level, yes I expect the shop to not blow up the engine. Not exactly forging a new path.

Posted
1 hour ago, truckguy82 said:

Experience just in regards to engine building And wrenchinh

-2 years of mechanic school for the hell of it, which included engine rebuilds


-usaf kc-135 hydraulic tech 4 years (the most complicated hydraulic system on any aircraft that I know of)

 

-Built 4 shortblocks and 3 heads for my own vehicles, while they were all honda, they saw 3x-5x their factory output on large amounts of boost using turbo systems I built and self tuned using uberdata and neptune. I even soldered in my own zif sockets in my ecu’s.

 

-Extensive forum experience

 

Forums are information sharing, and powerful tools. 
 

I can be damn sure that building a motor is not voodoo magic. Fact of the matter is, if they blew it up right after the build, it’s is a 99.99% chance they screwed up the engine build or the tuning session. Judging by his specific problems, sounds like the bearing clearances but could have been several things.

 

If it was, say, a ferrari 488, where the information available to us about motors is very limited, that’s one thing.

 

An engine in which several hundred thousand were built and 100’s modified to that power level, yes I expect the shop to not blow up the engine. Not exactly forging a new path.

Thank you for serving the nation.

 

Ok let me edit and rephrase my smart ass  reply - I think you’re out of your depth and in a poor position to set an incorrect narritive about a local business owner when other people who have worked with him directly are telling you that you are off base. If you don’t want to work with them, I assure you they have all the business they can handle anyway. Any time I go in there they’ve got at least a million dollars of msrp getting work done. They had a trackhawk in, getting BETTER not long ago. He has a camaro ZL1 in for an engine swap by a guy who thinks GSD can do it better and is basically firesaling a 650 hp engine. They don’t need your support, but what you’re doing is libelous when you state incorrect/incomplete  information in a factual way.

Posted
1 hour ago, ROB_IS_KING said:

Thanks for the quick read!  Do you worry about having your air filter so low and exposed to the elements living in New England winters?  Did the cost come out to somewhere around what they quoted me?

That’s the right question to ask because I’ve been thinking about it. I’m only mildly concerned... meaning that I plan on keeping an eye on when we get to mud season and the snow turns to slush. Mainly for splashes, it’s tucked up above the frame so deep snow doesn’t worry me at all. I think worst case would be affixing a splash shield below it if I ever find it’s getting mucked up. And yes, price is on point. 700 dollars of that is going to be the dyno tune.  Well worth it imo. You’ll have the fastest truck you know.

Posted

I am bad mouthing the shop in support of the OP’s build. It seems to me like he is getting taken advantage of. I come from the world of hi powered hondas and the stories of heard of failed builds and blowing up on the dyno is countless and it almost always have to do with human error.

 

I might feel a little bad about bad mouthing a business without knowing all the facts had their business been mentioned in the forum. Fact is - nobody on this forum knows what business it is so I am not actually making anybody look bad. Which is why I don’t care and why you shouldn’t care either. This is still an anonymous business.

Posted
16 hours ago, ShortyMatt said:

- They had a trackhawk in, getting BETTER not long ago. He has a camaro ZL1 in for an engine swap by a guy who thinks GSD can do it better and is basically firesaling a 650 hp engine. They don’t need your support, but what you’re doing is libelous when you state incorrect/incomplete  information in a factual way.

My friend has the Trackhawk and is who recommended me to this shop.  I appreciate your insight and experience with the shop and it's certainly pointing me in the direction of pulling the trigger and I thank you for the PM as well. 

 

15 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

I am bad mouthing the shop in support of the OP’s build. It seems to me like he is getting taken advantage of. I come from the world of hi powered hondas and the stories of heard of failed builds and blowing up on the dyno is countless and it almost always have to do with human error.

 

I might feel a little bad about bad mouthing a business without knowing all the facts had their business been mentioned in the forum. Fact is - nobody on this forum knows what business it is so I am not actually making anybody look bad. Which is why I don’t care and why you shouldn’t care either. This is still an anonymous business.

It's the first line of the OP's first post, not anonymous at all.  I do understand what you said earlier about the bearing clearances and the notion that the engine blowing up so immediately after could definitely be considered a red flag to some.  I am not sure what I would have done in that situation and it's hard to prove that it is the shop's fault verses an existing condition unnoticed.  If I was spending that much money I think I'd be pulling my hair out if it got to that point and then the rod bearings go, looking for a finger to point.  Again, we don't have enough details to blame someone.

 

 

Posted
21 hours ago, ROB_IS_KING said:

My friend has the Trackhawk and is who recommended me to this shop.  I appreciate your insight and experience with the shop and it's certainly pointing me in the direction of pulling the trigger and I thank you for the PM as well. 

 

It's the first line of the OP's first post, not anonymous at all.  I do understand what you said earlier about the bearing clearances and the notion that the engine blowing up so immediately after could definitely be considered a red flag to some.  I am not sure what I would have done in that situation and it's hard to prove that it is the shop's fault verses an existing condition unnoticed.  If I was spending that much money I think I'd be pulling my hair out if it got to that point and then the rod bearings go, looking for a finger to point.  Again, we don't have enough details to blame someone.

 

 


I never saw the name of the shop, so it is posted. I probably wouldn’t have been so critical, but whatever.

 

I mean theres a 90% chance it was a build error. Could it have been something that only some of the worlds best engine builders would have noticed, possibly. There’s a guy on corvette forum that DD’d 1000whp out of drop in pistons and stock rods/crank for two years before his rods went. Just seems unlikely a few dyno pulls at 700whp would cause them to fail unless the tune or motor was not done properly. 700whp is not unheard of for the 5.3, and the 6.2 has significantly stronger forged crank and rods.

 

Point is, they have the OP’s truck and they blew up the engine and the OP had to pay for it. No matter how you slice it, unless the op was forcing them to certain things, they are at a bare minimum partially to blame.

 

If the shop paid for the mistake somehow, fine, I’d retract everything I said. I literally can’t imagine taking someones possession, taking their money to make it better, and then damaging it. I just couldn’t call them and say “sorry the motor went, you need buy a new motor.” I’d feel 100% responsible.

Posted
56 minutes ago, JONBLARC7 said:

L86 6.2's don't have forged crank and rods only LT4's

L86 and LT1 engines do have a forged crank. The L83 does not. Rods are forged powdered steel I beam's. 

Posted
1 minute ago, L86 All Terrain said:

L86 and LT1 engines do have a forged crank. The L83 does not. 

You are correct about the crank I miss spoke but not forged rods. Right?

 

Only LT4's

Posted
1 minute ago, JONBLARC7 said:

You are correct about the crank I miss spoke but not forged rods. Right?

 

Only LT4's

Lt1/l86 rods are forged powered metal

 

there is some debate to how strong they are compared to old school forged rods

 

Regardless there are numerous examples of the oem rods far exceeding 700whp

 

 

Posted

Yes the rods are not the weak link, the L86, LT1 and the LT4 all utilize the same forged powered steel connecting rods. GM is not clear as to what steel recipe is used, but some of the best steel alloys available today are derived from powdered steel. LT5 uses a different connecting rod, but still made of forged powdered steel. 

Posted
2 hours ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Yes the rods are not the weak link, the L86, LT1 and the LT4 all utilize the same forged powered steel connecting rods. GM is not clear as to what steel recipe is used, but some of the best steel alloys available today are derived from powdered steel. LT5 uses a different connecting rod, but still made of forged powdered steel. 

That is precisely why I was blaming the shop.

 

It’s possible it wasn’t their fault, just unlikely. It’s possible his bearings were already damaged from some sort of oil contamination. Or a million other reasons. It’s just far more likely someone screwed up the tune or overlooked something when the motor was apart for the piston upgrade.

 

I dont know, just seems like the shop had full possession and control of that engine and if it blows up, regardless of why, then it should be on them.

 

If the customer diy built the motor, and then they blew it up while tuning it, that’s a different story since they should not really be responsible for the motor since they didn’t do the work

 

Imagine hiring hennessy to install a 700hp package for like $30k, and then they call you and tell you, “sorry we blew up the motor you need to buy another.“


 

Posted

I would definitely ask for the data logs from the last two or three runs before it popped, even if you had to pay another guy to decipher it for you. But I don't think money is much of a concern of the OP's. Would have been nice to get the core deposit to go against that sweet 427 if it didn't blow up though. 

Posted

I must admit I would have to question the builder. I’ve seen engines go two, two 1/2 times it’s original horsepower and stock bottom ends hold up. I’ve seen people with daily drivers do it with nitrous on stock engines. Something’s amiss.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...