Jump to content

Overheating while towing

Cascade Venturer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Cascade Venturer Enthusiast

Cascade Venturer

Posted
Posted

06 Silverado 2500hd 6.0

 

My Silverado is getting really hot while towing up hill, to the point that the "Engine Coolant Hot" light is coming on. (Which I stop and let it cool down). This has gradually gotten worse. Truck does not get hot while towing on flat terrain. Any ideas?

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

could be a problem with the thermostat, or radiator fins aren't clean, or you've put some bling up front that reduces airflow through the rad, or some of the ducting up front is missing (that directs air to the radiators), or water pump isn't pushing enough water (problem with the impeller in the pump)

  • Like 1
Formulabruce Enthusiast

Formulabruce

Posted
Posted

Flush the cooling system. Remove the T stat housing and really flush it out. If you tow a lot, you can use a 160 T-stat, which works well, and engine still runs in closed loop.

I would also upgrade the stock transmission cooler to one twice the size ( easy with grill off)

Mikebtte Enthusiast

Mikebtte

Posted
Posted

As talked about above, make sure the radiator is clean. If you are towing in areas with high altitude, you need all the air you can get. Confirm the thermostat is fully opening, and check water pump pressure and radiator cap. If the cap is failing you will not maintain a properly cooling system. 

 

Cascade Venturer Enthusiast

Cascade Venturer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the responses. No bling added to my truck, its as stock as can be. It doesn't have and issue with temperature unless towing uphill. I took my grill off about a month ago and cleaned off the radiator and condenser with compressed air... didn't make a difference though. I'm having to pull over sooner and sooner to let it cool off. I've reached in and tried spinning the fan and it seems really tight and barely spins. I will test some of the above mentioned and see if that helps.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

You need to check the fan clutch while hot. You tube has several videos. Basically at idle, take a rolled up newspaper and slowly advance it into the fan. It should resist stopping. I've seen clutches seem to perform correctly until this test

Cascade Venturer Enthusiast

Cascade Venturer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, txab said:

You need to check the fan clutch while hot. You tube has several videos. Basically at idle, take a rolled up newspaper and slowly advance it into the fan. It should resist stopping. I've seen clutches seem to perform correctly until this test

Ok. I will test it out tomorrow. Thanks

Cascade Venturer Enthusiast

Cascade Venturer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On ‎11‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 7:14 PM, txab said:

You need to check the fan clutch while hot. You tube has several videos. Basically at idle, take a rolled up newspaper and slowly advance it into the fan. It should resist stopping. I've seen clutches seem to perform correctly until this test

I took the truck for a drive and let it heat up to operating temperature. I did the test and had no change in fan speed. The newspaper didn't effect it.

  • 7 months later...
Cascade Venturer Enthusiast

Cascade Venturer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In the process of replacing radiator, fan clutch, water pump etc. Here is the fan-side of the radiator. Quite a bit of smashed fins. Do you think that is enough to cause my overheating issue? The pics don't really do it justice either.  I'm replacing it anyways, just wanted some reassurance that I'm heading down the right path.

rad 2.jpg

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
45 minutes ago, Cascade Venturer said:

In the process of replacing radiator, fan clutch, water pump etc. Here is the fan-side of the radiator. Quite a bit of smashed fins. Do you think that is enough to cause my overheating issue? The pics don't really do it justice either.  I'm replacing it anyways, just wanted some reassurance that I'm heading down the right path.

rad 2.jpg

Sure can.  Probably wore out inside too.  Same with condenser.

  • Like 1
jzaldivar Enthusiast

jzaldivar

Posted
Posted

Mine has the same issue. Plugged radiator...use of wrong coolant will cause it to gel up inside, thus clogging it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
hiking_mike Enthusiast

hiking_mike

Posted
Posted

I took the stack apart last spring> I noticed the air "holes" in the intercooler are larger the the radiator. This causes debris to pass through the intercooler and get caught in front of the radiator.

After cleaning radiator of gunk and dead bugs, I noticed the transmission a lot cooler when towing a 7,000 pound trailer all the way to Key West in early July.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...