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P-metric vs LT tires

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I put the  Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 3  275/65/20 34.1 dia on my Silverado about 6000 miles ago. They are the lightest p metric tire I could  find in LT series. That's why I went with them. To keep rolling mass down.   I love them. At first they were really slippery even on dry pavement. But once they broke in they are fine. Great on the highway. Quite. Tread is lasting. Still look like new.  2020 Silverado 2.0 inch  leveling shock up front. 1.25 block rear. 

Edited by xsquid
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I routinely pull a 3ton rv trailer. I also overland with tent on rack above truck bed. I wanted a tire that was the best compromise for the above. Chose the BF Goodrich KO2 tires. They are best rated for snow, mud, sand and weather. They ride well on interstate at 75mph. Mileage is down about 2 mpgs from previous Michelins. They can easily handle the trailer load. Expensive, but worth it.

Been two years now and showing negligible wear with almost 20k miles on them.  I recommend them.

2015 Sierra 1500 Denali.

Stock except....Changed tires to: 275x60x20 for towing. Tire diameter was within .25" of stock so speedo is only 1 mph off.

Edited by videoarizona
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The LT tires on the Trailboss are 'C' range, not the usual E range.

Afaik, they are the only C range Duratrac and the only one that is not 3PMSF rated


From GM's order guide:   

R3O Tires, LT275/65R18C blackwall Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac MT


I snapped up a set of takeoff rims with these tires, (for winter use) --- and then discovered the 3PMSF issue.

Swapped the tires out for a 3PMSF 'winter' tire. 



I believe this tire was produced specifically so GM would use it for factory fit on the 1500 trailboss and AT4




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  • 1 month later...
On 8/18/2022 at 1:20 PM, richard wysong said:

Be aware if you change the load rating you will have to adjust the tire pressures to meet the new rating

You would only adjust the pressure if you are hauling more weight, not based upon what your new tires COULD haul but what they actually ARE hauling the pressures  on your door sticker will still be accurate until you start adding weight to the vehicle.

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yes but if the truck came with LT range E tires and you change to a P ,C or D rated tires and inflate to what it says on the door sticker you will be over inflating the tires and will probably damage them. Check the max pressure on the side of the tire when setting pressures

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15 hours ago, richard wysong said:

yes but if the truck came with LT range E tires and you change to a P ,C or D rated tires and inflate to what it says on the door sticker you will be over inflating the tires and will probably damage them. Check the max pressure on the side of the tire when setting pressures

I believe that to be incorrect, it is all based upon the load not the tire, each tire can go on many different vehicles, are you implying that a P rated tire would require a higher pressure than an E rated tire on the exact same vehicle with no load?

Curious about this

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No, the factory tire pressures for a truck with LR E tires is 80psi rear 60psi front which is over the max inflation for a lower range tire so say if you are using a P rated tire the max pressure will be between 35-44psi. if you put 80psi in a p tire it will damage the tire and may explode. so on a LT tire it tells you max load at a specific psi but a P tire doesn't tell you that on the tire so I think start at the max inflation marked on the tire and adjust down according to payload and ride quality desired . When I was servicing trucks for a construction company the boss had put new tires on his truck and when I did the service I set the pressures as usual without looking at the new tires. well they were LR Cs max inflation 45psi not the LR Es that it came with. A week later the belts in the rear tires had started to separate. The boss thought he was getting a great deal on the tires when he bought them but because they were not the right tire for the application  it turned out they were not a bargain

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A little off topic but maybe still of some interest, this past week I took my Caddy on a road trip up in  the White mountains of NH, before leaving a set my tire pressures at 35psi which is 5psi over what it says on the door.  The tire pressure light came on for overinflation of 1 tire at the higher elevations. I didn't have a tire gauge with me to check but I did check to make sure it wasn't heating up due to brake drag, back home at sea level its back to normal. My thinking is where it was just 1 tire maybe the tpms sensor was the problem. The DIS showed 40psi at the highest elevations and 38 at a bit lower[

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Not necessarily Richard.  A 2500 Suburban comes with LR E LT tires and they call for 50 psi up front and 60 out back to support the maximum weights of the vehicle.  


My Yukon came with P-Metrics and the door sticker says to run them at 30 psi.  Same size tire in LR C or E and BFG says to run them at 42 psi.


Here's a twister for you.  My NHT Sierra runs 17" P-Metrics 32 psi up front and 38 psi out back for the Goodyear Wrangler AT/S.  My All-Terrain Sierra with 18" P-Metrics calls for 35 psi all around for Goodyear Wrangler SR-A.  BFG says LR E KO2s have to be run at 47 psi in both trucks in their respective stock tires sizes to support the axle and spring ratings of each truck.

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Very interesting info, The point I was trying to make is that if you change load ratings you have to be careful not to exceed the max air pressure of the tire. My trucks run with payloads at or slightly over the GVW daily so I stick with the recommended tires and inflations but for a truck that doesn't see that type of severe service it's perfectly fine to use a lower load range tire and adjust the pressures accordingly

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