Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I really don't have a clue on what it could be all I know is that this Thursday my truck is going to get out of the dealer and I will find out if a new drive shaft did the job, Have to wait and see I'll let you know if that fixes it.

Posted

I have the 20" Texas Edition wheels as well. I don't think mine has anything to do with the wheels since I just had them rotated and the vibration is still exactly the same. I will hopefully know more on Wednesday when I take my truck in to have them look at it and see if they can pinpoint where the source is coming from.

Posted

And now it's on the back of a wrecker headed back to the dealer. Surging won't get over 30 mph. This has been one hell of a new vehicle experience.

Oh no! I am truly sorry to learn that your vehicle is headed back into the dealership. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me including a brief overview of your concern, contact information, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Sincerely,

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

Posted

Silver Spaceship - does the vibration feel like rumble strips for about a second? Thats what mine was/is doing. Symptoms sound very much the same. I also experienced a slip between 2nd & 3rd gears as the truck was accelerating. My truck spent 2 weeks with the dealer as they couldn't figure out the issue. They experienced the same vibration & slip, so there was no denying it existed. No error codes were present. They eventually called in a field engineer who determined the torque converter was out of balance. Their solution was to replace the torque converter. Had it back for 5 days, and it is starting the vibration & slip issue all over again.

Posted

I really think it is the prop shaft for a couple of reasons:

1 Rotating tires does nothing

2 Vibration is inconsistent

3 Weight is a factor

4 Speed is a factor

5 Changing the drive shaft apparently does nothing

6 Changing the torque converter apparently does nothing.

 

 

There are a couple of things that can change the angle at the rear end. The amount of torque being applied, weight in the truck (gas, passengers, payload), terrain, and trailering. Until the angle at both ends of the drive shaft are always identical there will be a vibration. Mine was so bad I changed my trailer tires in a parking lot because I thought they were flat spotted.

Posted

Silver Spaceship - does the vibration feel like rumble strips for about a second? Thats what mine was/is doing. Symptoms sound very much the same. I also experienced a slip between 2nd & 3rd gears as the truck was accelerating. My truck spent 2 weeks with the dealer as they couldn't figure out the issue. They experienced the same vibration & slip, so there was no denying it existed. No error codes were present. They eventually called in a field engineer who determined the torque converter was out of balance. Their solution was to replace the torque converter. Had it back for 5 days, and it is starting the vibration & slip issue all over again.

Hey there,

 

I am truly sorry to hear that you are continuing to experience a vehicle issue after a visit at the dealership. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me including a brief overview of your concern, contact information, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

Posted

I have 20's goodyear on my 2014 LTZ 4wd. Vibration is terrible. Cant stand it. 1st time dealer said the tires were not perfectly round and replaced 3 of them. This didnt fix the problem. 2nd time at dealer and replacing the 4th tire. Not fixed! I spent alot of money for a truck that shakes between 50 and 80 mph. Very upset with the quality.

  • Like 1
Posted

Got a call from the dealer today and they said that their technicians also confirmed the vibration as I described it. They had to call their regional tech and he suggested three possible things that it could be. The easiest of them was to re-time the drive shaft. I forgot the third thing that they mentioned but the other was to have the drive shaft balance checked. So, they took it off, checked for any manufacturing defects and/or damage (found none), turned it 180o and put it back on. They said that they took the truck out and test drove it and that they did not feel any vibration after. So maybe it is just an alignment issue causing all the vibrations. I won't know until tomorrow since they still have the truck. I will let y'all know when I get it back if this fixed the issue or not. I will be making a trip this weekend, so I will be able to fully test it out. I'll keep y'all updated.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Still could be the tires. I had vibration problems and it has always been the tires or drive shaft. If dealer cannot get it done, I would find a good drive shaft shop in your area. Have them check the shaft. If not a fix then I would go to the tires next. Even a road force balance is not always reliable. If at all possible, find a shop that knows how to true tires AND high speed balance on the truck using a strobe.

 

The truing and on truck high speed balance has corrected vibration problems for me. And this is even with Michelins. It is the only way I will balance a tire. We have had the road force from Discount when putting on new tires. Not good on large truck tires. True and balance on the truck and all is like glass at all speeds.

 

If in the San Antonio area, PM me and I will give you the only know shop here. Oh, heck it is Southwest brake and alignment.

Edited by STex
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I

have 20's goodyear on my 2014 LTZ 4wd. Vibration is terrible. Cant

stand it. 1st time dealer said the tires were not perfectly round and

replaced 3 of them. This didnt fix the problem. 2nd time at dealer and

replacing the 4th tire. Not fixed! I spent alot of money for a truck

that shakes between 50 and 80 mph. Very upset with the quality.

 

Hello joeocean,

 

I am sorry to hear that you are

experiencing this vibration on your vehicle as well. I also apologize that

replacing the tired like the dealership has tried has not addressed the issue.

Could you private message us your name, contact info, VIN, mileage, and dealership

you are working with so we can look further into this situation for you? Thank

you very much for your time.

 

Gregory W. (Assisting Jennifer)

GM Customer Care

 

 

 

Edited by GM Customer Service
  • Like 1
Posted

The drive shaft re-time did not fix the problem. It still vibrates exactly the same as before.

 

I talked with the service tech and he seems to think that it is road vibrations that I am feeling. I will have to talk with them next week and see what else they can do.

 

I still think that it has something to do with the rear axle. The amplitude of the vibration changes only when I turn and remains constant at whatever level it reached in the turn while driving straight. So sometimes it is really bad and sometimes it is barely there at all but it never totally goes away.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...