Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just take it to a good tire shop and have them jack up the rear and run the tires at 30 or so and they can tell if tires have straight tread and if far out of round. Hopefully you can find a shop that can then high speed balance on the truck. Trueing would help more too but hard to find.

 

If you cannot find such go to discount tire or other good shop that does road force balance and have them check the balance. If out pay for a balance. tell them to rotate the tires on the wheel 180 if too much weight required.

 

Trust me, most dealers have little experience properly balancing a tire. If you get a good balance and the tires are not way out of round and still have problems, THEN go back to dealer.

Really? This is why I buy a new vehicle. So I DONT have to take it to the shop. At the tune of 40+ grand, the fix for a brand new vehicle should be on the seller/manufacturer, don't you think?

Posted

Update: well I picked up my truck on Thursday they changed the Diferencial on it. I don't know what gears it has but anyways I took it for a test drive and I no longer fell the vibration on the steering wheel. Now it's different it hard to explain but it it's feels the rear tires are unbalanced it has like a bounce to the rear end that I can feel in the driver seat and I can see it on the passenger seat. It almost feels like the road is rough and it starts doing it around 67mph I told the service guy and said I could be the frame flexing or road conditions and stated that they really don't know what else to do to it but that if I was still uncomfortable with it to take it back and they would see what else they can do to it. Well I took the truck anyways and yea it even dose that bounce thing on new roads I don't know wtf anymore or how to prove its the truck because they are saying it's road conditions.

 

The service tech at my dealer told me the same thing. He said that it felt like road vibrations and that I shouldn't put too much more effort into chasing this down in fear of driving myself crazy with it. I would have taken it back in last week but last week was completely terrible for me. Hopefully in the next couple of days I will get some time to take it in and discuss with them options. Reading all of these posts since my last has given me much more ammo to go to them with. I have also made two 10hr round trips since getting my truck back and I can tell you that it is not road vibrations. I will keep y'all updated on what I find.

Posted

Really? This is why I buy a new vehicle. So I DONT have to take it to the shop. At the tune of 40+ grand, the fix for a brand new vehicle should be on the seller/manufacturer, don't you think?

 

Yes Really, have they can they fix it? Just trying to help you get the truck fixed. Good luck with your dealer. Outside help for checking the tires etc is cheap compared to the price you paid for the truck.

  • Like 1
Posted

Bought mine in late June and for a brief second I thought I should wait and see if there are any problems, but the looks of this truck won me over.. I'm kicking myself now . Its had the tires road force balanced and no they are replacing the tires. I bought a new truck expecting it to have less problems than the 8yr old 140xxx mile truck I had. This is my second GMC truck and my first brand new one . I'm very disappointed. 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Z71 4x4

  • Like 1
Posted

Bought mine in late June and for a brief second I thought I should wait and see if there are any problems, but the looks of this truck won me over.. I'm kicking myself now . Its had the tires road force balanced and no they are replacing the tires. I bought a new truck expecting it to have less problems than the 8yr old 140xxx mile truck I had. This is my second GMC truck and my first brand new one . I'm very disappointed. 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Z71 4x4

 

Sorry for the bad luck. On my 09, I replaced the OEM tires the day I bought it. Drove straight to discount and put on Michelins LTX M/S one size up. They gave me a fair price for my trade in new tires. Their balance was fair. Had them trued and balanced on the truck the next week. Smooth as glass.

 

If one would do such you would know for sure it is or is not the tires AND you will have much better tires even if not the fix.

Posted

I have a set of 285/70/17 nittos on v-tec rims with about 2000 miles on them off my 05 that I got from discount tire that I'm going to try after I get the truck back from the dealer..

Posted

2014 Silverado. On my way home from the dealership I was having a smooth ride for the first 15 miles. Like switching a switch my truck started shaking real bad, so bad I pulled over and checked to make sure I wasn't about to loose a tire. They were fine. Took it to the dealership where it has been for 2 weeks now. They have replaced the drive shaft, didn't fix the shaking. They are in the process of replacing the rear axel, hopefully will know by Friday if it is fixed.

Posted

sbamburg,

 

Hello! I am sorry to learn that you continue to experience an issue after going to the dealership. I would be happy to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me referencing this thread including your full name, address, phone number, VIN, current mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care



  • Like 1
Posted

Heard back from the dealer on Friday. They and the regional engineer both agree that there might be something wrong with the axle. So the engineer is having them check everything from alignment of parts to part thicknesses/balance to see if there is something out of spec. Hopefully I will know early next week on what they find.

  • Like 1
Posted

So today I just pulled my 600# snowmobile on a 2 place aluminum snowmobile trailer and had the worst vibrations I've experience so far. This has me more convinced my vibration issue is related to drive shaft angle. The weight on the back of the truck is slightly lifting the front and in any other truck this isn't an issue but since my truck has a vibration unloaded the extra drive shaft angle makes it worse. How does a guy get a proper drive shaft angle?

Posted

Heard back from the dealer on Friday. They and the regional engineer both agree that there might be something wrong with the axle. So the engineer is having them check everything from alignment of parts to part thicknesses/balance to see if there is something out of spec. Hopefully I will know early next week on what they find.

Please let us hear back. Dang, this thread has me concerned and I do not even have a '14 and this is slowing my decision on a possible new truck. May just cool my jets tell the Yukon XLs hit to see price etc...dang

Posted

I joined this because I was searching for information on this topic. I bought a 2014 Silverado Double Cab Z71 All Star Edition about two weeks ago. I have noticed a slight vibration or shimmy at highway speeds above 65. At 55-60 mph, it's smooth. It's most noticeable at 70-75. When I have a bottle of water in the cup holder, you can see the vibration in the water. Also, it doesn't do it all the time. It seems like when the truck accelerates (in cruise control) it does it. When on flat level or slightly down hill, it doesn't. I'm trying to decide whether to take it in or not. Since it doesn't do it all the time, I'm thinking this has nothing to do with wheel balance. Maybe driveshaft balance? Any thoughts?

Posted

I joined this because I was searching for information on this topic. I bought a 2014 Silverado Double Cab Z71 All Star Edition about two weeks ago. I have noticed a slight vibration or shimmy at highway speeds above 65. At 55-60 mph, it's smooth. It's most noticeable at 70-75. When I have a bottle of water in the cup holder, you can see the vibration in the water. Also, it doesn't do it all the time. It seems like when the truck accelerates (in cruise control) it does it. When on flat level or slightly down hill, it doesn't. I'm trying to decide whether to take it in or not. Since it doesn't do it all the time, I'm thinking this has nothing to do with wheel balance. Maybe driveshaft balance? Any thoughts?

I have a 2014 crew cab 5.3 and I too have a vibration problem. It seems to come and go. I hear a wobble sound between 35 and 40 mph and I feel vibration in the wheel at 50 and it makes my hand numb.

Posted

I joined this because I was searching for information on this topic. I bought a 2014 Silverado Double Cab Z71 All Star Edition about two weeks ago. I have noticed a slight vibration or shimmy at highway speeds above 65. At 55-60 mph, it's smooth. It's most noticeable at 70-75. When I have a bottle of water in the cup holder, you can see the vibration in the water. Also, it doesn't do it all the time. It seems like when the truck accelerates (in cruise control) it does it. When on flat level or slightly down hill, it doesn't. I'm trying to decide whether to take it in or not. Since it doesn't do it all the time, I'm thinking this has nothing to do with wheel balance. Maybe driveshaft balance? Any thoughts?

 

As it is so mild, It may well be wheel balance or more possible the out of round tires. I was having my subs tires high speed balanced on the truck. Would be smooth but start to fall apart (vibrate) at 70-75 etc. The shop finally talked me into trueing my fairly new Michelin tires; then high speed balance on the truck. Results, Smooth as glass at all speeds. All tires are some what out of round. that is one of the reasons a shop doing a road force balance may rotate a tire on the wheel 180 degs if it is requiring too much weight.

 

Also some road surfaces can cause an out of balance/not round tire to show a greater vibration. If it bothers you, I would find a good tire shop that can do a good balance on the truck. If a shop has that ability they probably can tell you if they need trueing . If not that find a place that knows how to use a road force machine. Warning, most dealerships are not in the tire balance business and cannot do a good balance. I find the oem Goodyear wranglers on the trucks to be a very poor tire and deserves replacement as soon a pocket book allows.

Posted

 

As it is so mild, It may well be wheel balance or more possible the out of round tires. I was having my subs tires high speed balanced on the truck. Would be smooth but start to fall apart (vibrate) at 70-75 etc. The shop finally talked me into trueing my fairly new Michelin tires; then high speed balance on the truck. Results, Smooth as glass at all speeds. All tires are some what out of round. that is one of the reasons a shop doing a road force balance may rotate a tire on the wheel 180 degs if it is requiring too much weight.

 

Also some road surfaces can cause an out of balance/not round tire to show a greater vibration. If it bothers you, I would find a good tire shop that can do a good balance on the truck. If a shop has that ability they probably can tell you if they need trueing . If not that find a place that knows how to use a road force machine. Warning, most dealerships are not in the tire balance business and cannot do a good balance. I find the oem Goodyear wranglers on the trucks to be a very poor tire and deserves replacement as soon a pocket book allows.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...