Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Get a lawyer!!!!!!!!!!!

GM has literally driven me crazy with this

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Posted

IMG_20140531_100424_984.jpg

My $980 totally worth it set of tires! They're LT275 70 18 Nitto Terra Grapplers. They fill up the well nicely and look a lot more aggressive than the stockers

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

IMG_20140531_100424_984.jpg

My $980 totally worth it set of tires! They're LT275 70 18 Nitto Terra Grapplers. They fill up the well nicely and look a lot more aggressive than the stockers

 

Nice and this fixed the 70+ mph steering wheel vibration you were having? Any rubbing in the front when you turn the wheel?

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

 

Nice and this fixed the 70+ mph steering wheel vibration you were having? Any rubbing in the front when you turn the wheel?

They're only one size wider and one size taller than the stock tires and no rubbing. I believe you can go with 285 65's and still not rub. I would 95% say that a wheel vibration is tire related. It would be rare to have a bad CV or something drive related in the front end this early. I couldn't be happier with my truck with new tires at this point. I knew my problem was the tires because I rotated the wheels and the vibration followed the tire that was bad. I wasn't going to go down the same path as my first 14 fighting for things to get fixed so I just got the tires I wanted to begin with. The same tires for the first truck I had with 20's in an LT load E were $1500+ so I waited. These I got @ Tire Kingdom for $225 + installation and taxes. I looked at the Michelin's but liked the look of the Nitto's better. Vibration is 100% gone. Edited by 20Bowtie14
Posted

I am glad I did not let this shake issue stop me from purchasing my truck. It is the best vehicle purchase I have ever made. it is an amazing truck.

 

I wonder what the odds are of getting a dud... 1/1000?? anyhow just thought id post for those in the middle of looking at getting this truck. Do it you wont regret it

  • Like 2
Posted

They're only one size wider and one size taller than the stock tires and no rubbing. I believe you can go with 285 65's and still not rub. I would 95% say that a wheel vibration is tire related. It would be rare to have a bad CV or something drive related in the front end this early. I couldn't be happier with my truck with new tires at this point. I knew my problem was the tires because I rotated the wheels and the vibration followed the tire that was bad. I wasn't going to go down the same path as my first 14 fighting for things to get fixed so I just got the tires I wanted to begin with. The same tires for the first truck I had with 20's in an LT load E were $1500+ so I waited. These I got @ Tire Kingdom for $225 + installation and taxes. I looked at the Michelin's but liked the look of the Nitto's better. Vibration is 100% gone.

 

So are these Nitto's Load E rated?

Posted

I haven't read through each and every one of the 1800+ posts here, but if the vibration is believed to be tire-related, and changing tires seems to solve the issue for some, has anyone researched which tires are the main culpret? (22" Bridgestones here, no vibes.)

Posted

Yes. You feel the road more with the higher pressure E rated tires but its totally worth it not to have vibrations though. Here's the site:http://www.nittotire.com/Tire/Grappler%20truck/terragrappler

 

I feel the road NOW!

 

I haven't read through each and every one of the 1800+ posts here, but if the vibration is believed to be tire-related, and changing tires seems to solve the issue for some, has anyone researched which tires are the main culpret? (22" Bridgestones here, no vibes.)

 

Seems to be the Goodyear Wrangler SR-A tires. 18" in my case.

Posted (edited)

 

Seems to be the Goodyear Wrangler SR-A tires. 18" in my case.

Interesting. I'll try to read through some more of this thread for some details. (I just haven't had a whole day to invest in reading such a huge topic! ) Thanks for the info.

Edited by Luster
Posted

Interesting. I'll try to read through some more of this thread for some details. (I just haven't had a whole day to invest in reading such a huge topic! ) Thanks for the info.

 

Pretty much anything Goodyear. Most I would say being the Eagle LS2's.

Posted

 

Pretty much anything Goodyear. Most I would say being the Eagle LS2's.

OK thanks.

Posted

I had the gas saver 18's and then BF Goodrich rugged trails, then the Goodyear eagle LS 2's. They all made the truck vibrate.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I have th 18", 265/65/18 Good Year SR-A tires. I brought it in for vibration at 70+. The dealer swapped out two of my tires around 1500 miles ago. It was almost fixed after they swapped the two, but it's slowly coming back. I believe mine to be a tire issue. When it first started coming back I noticed that on the 2 older tires...if you ran your hand along the sidewall you'd feel bumps and ripples...but barely on the 2 new tires...well the two newer ones are now like that. I'm right on the line of getting an alignment and 4 Nitto Crossteks put on and see what we have afterwards. I might as well just do it because it could very well fix the whole problem for me. If it doesn't I'm still keeping the truck a while so might as wlel have decent tires on it. I know some people are trading out but I'm not going to do that. You take too much of a loss doing that this early in the purchase, and honestly...I'm getting 19.5 to 20 mpg lately so it's saving me money. Other brand trucks arent going to get the gas mileage these new GM's are getting so i think it's crazy to entertain losing on the trade value vs what's owed, plus a hit to the wallet every time you fill up. I had 5 grand in equity to my trade so there's no way I'm pissing that away. I may have talked myself into new tires just now LOL! They can only help...just sucks to dump the money towards them so early in the game.

Edited by MJFlores

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...