Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

cant say if its true or not but yesterday I talked to a guy who felt certain the vibration problem was "mainly" with towing package trucks so if that is true it may be related to the automatic locking rear differential thingy they add in the rear end for towing package

 

so how bout it? how many of you guys have a vibration issue in a non-towing package truck that doesn't have the automatic locking rear differential?

Posted

It was an even trade but the rebates on the Ltz were less, so I ended up paying roughly $800 more for the LTZ Z71.

So did you have this truck financed? My question is I have owned my truck for 4 months and paid approx. 2k off on my loan. Do they give you a new truck and then add the difference to what you currently owe, or do they give you your original loan balance back and then you start over on the new one?

Posted

So did you have this truck financed? My question is I have owned my truck for 4 months and paid approx. 2k off on my loan. Do they give you a new truck and then add the difference to what you currently owe, or do they give you your original loan balance back and then you start over on the new one?

 

You have to start a new loan. I went through buy back as well and I asked if i could have a vin transfer so I could keep the same loan and they couldn't do it. From what I understand though is it depends on who your lender is. Some banks will do it, others will not. I will say on my new loan I got a better rate so it't not always a bad thing. I negotiated to have the amount I had paid off on my loan so far, wrapped up into the buy back deal. All depends on how willing your dealer is to work with you and mine was great!

Posted (edited)

cant say if its true or not but yesterday I talked to a guy who felt certain the vibration problem was "mainly" with towing package trucks so if that is true it may be related to the automatic locking rear differential thingy they add in the rear end for towing package

 

so how bout it? how many of you guys have a vibration issue in a non-towing package truck that doesn't have the automatic locking rear differential?

 

This is somewhat plausible, although I believe Luster and fondupot have towing package trucks and they are smooth. There might be a bad batch of lockers out there causing it, but I think if this were the case it would be plaguing a certain month of production rather than all over the place. There seems to be no correlation in build date, cab size, bed size, or rear end ration.

 

I was thinking the other night, anybody check the TPMS sensors, is it possible they are coming a little loose at higher speeds and creating an issue on the highway? Just a thought.

 

Also, I was on the highway on Sunday and was getting up to speed, was in a turn going uphill, and was completely smooth all the way to 80mph. Straightened back out and on flat surface and the 75mph shake was back. What angles, etc would change when going uphill in a turn? Whatever is affected by that, might be the culprit on my truck.

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted (edited)

 

This is somewhat plausible, although I believe Luster and fondupot have towing package trucks and they are smooth.

 

I don't have the NHT Max Tow package, but I have the normal towing hardware. e.g. the tow hitch receiver, factory brake controller and all the wiring.

 

But my truck does not have the NHT Max Tow package.

 

Does drive smooth tho.

Edited by fondupot
Posted

 

I don't have the NHT Max Tow package, but I have the normal towing hardware. e.g. the tow hitch receiver, factory brake controller and all the wiring.

 

But my truck does not have the NHT Max Tow package.

 

Does drive smooth tho.

 

Right, I don't have the NHT Max tow package either, just the regular tow package and mine shakes. I think most of the people on this thread have the regular tow package which comes with the locker.

Posted

 

Right, I don't have the NHT Max tow package either, just the regular tow package and mine shakes. I think most of the people on this thread have the regular tow package which comes with the locker.

 

roger that. Mine is also a Z71. Not sure if that changes the Locker.

Posted

The automatic locking rear differential is related to the Z71 package, not the tow package. It may be related to the max tow package I haven't checked that package out that closely. But 2WD trucks and 4x4 (non Z71) trucks with a standard tow package do not have an automatic locking rear differential.

Posted

2wd, standard tow package, auto locking rear diff, have the vibration. I have noticed it goes smoother up/downhill than it does on a flat surface. Unfortunately I drive flat surfaces a majority of the time. Mine really shakes around 74/75. Up to 70 it's fine, past 76 its fine. I'm hoping they find something soon, I've already taken it in 2x for the shake.

Posted

Hi all, I've had my truck for almost a year now. Been having these vibration issues since 6000km, now currently around 14,000km. I'm looking at all these posts as I haven't been here for awhile, last post was back on of 150ish. And it makes me even more furious, that at least you guys are getting serviced and having other problems looked at. My truck has been in the shop for a total of 24 times, and all they have done is rotated the tires, and change out the rubbers 3 different times. About three months in I got a hold of GM Canada or their customer service and started a case. I've asked them to buy back my lemon or at least let me trade it in for one that I know doesn't vibrate (or at least if didn't). Several months later I keep getting the.same answer "The dealer has to do everything in their power to fix this before we can go down that route". Doing the same thing for over 7 months is not "everything in their power".

 

I've almost accepted my fate that I'm stuck with this vibration until I buy a new vehicle.

Posted

UGH....after 15,000 miles of perfection, the truck developed a wicked vibration.

 

 

This is probably the scariest post of the entire thread. This tells us a few important things:

 

1) If you don't have the vibration problem now, it doesn't necessarily mean you're out of the woods.

2) Test driving multiple trucks on the lot in an effort to find one that doesn't vibrate doesn't mean you won't develop a vibration later so those efforts can be futile

3) Developing a wicked vibration after 15,000 miles immediately rules out an improperly balanced drive shaft or tires/wheels. Perhaps a bad rear differential that got worse over time? A transmission problem that got worse over time? An exhaust system problem that got worse over time?

 

15,000 miles of perfection and then all of a sudden a wicked vibration? As I said this is probably the scariest post of the entire thread.

 

7,500 miles on my truck.....I don't think I'll ever sleep at night 100% peacefully as long as I own this truck.......

  • Like 1
Posted

No worries, that's one more year for me. Just about the time when Nissan and Toyota get their diesels 1/2 tons going. Just give me an reason. Im not playing games, lifes to short to hate your ride.

Posted

No worries, that's one more year for me. Just about the time when Nissan and Toyota get their diesels 1/2 tons going. Just give me an reason. Im not playing games, lifes to short to hate your ride.

 

Is Toyota coming out with a half ton diesel?!? GM missed a HUGE opportunity not pursuing small block diesel engines 5-10 years ago like originally planned.

Posted

Is Toyota coming out with a half ton diesel?!? GM missed a HUGE opportunity not pursuing small block diesel engines 5-10 years ago like originally planned.

Bound to happen, never seen them sit on the sidelines.
Posted

Bound to happen, never seen them sit on the sidelines.

 

Yeah it's coming out in 2016. Going to have a 5.0L Cummins with 300+ hp and 500+ ft. lbs of torque. Should be a hell of a truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...