Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I'm really considering a Ram right now too. There's a lot of pluses with a Ram, I'm just not sold on the exterior look. The interior on the other hand is solid. No creaks or rattles in any new ram I've been in, yet our k2's seems to become rattle traps over time. Also the seats don't shift or clunk and the throttle response is great. Not to mention anyone who bought an older ram still has a truck that looks like a current model. GM went and screwed us on our resale value by refreshing the look after two years. Lastly the ride quality is hands down better in a ram, absorbs bumps and expansion joints like nothing. Even without a lift these k2's feel every imperfection in the road.

Edited by projectsummit
Posted

I'm really considering a Ram right now too. There's a lot of pluses with a Ram, I'm just not sold on the exterior look. The interior on the other hand is solid. No creaks or rattles in any new ram I've been in, yet our k2's seems to become rattle traps over time. Also the seats don't shift or clunk and the throttle response is great. Not to mention anyone who bought an older ram still has a truck that looks like a current model. GM went and screwed us on our resale value by refreshing the look after two years. Lastly the ride quality is hands down better in a ram, absorbs bumps and expansion joints like nothing. Even without a lift these k2's feel every imperfection in the road.

I had a 2014 and traded it in for my Chevy. The looks we're great but I HATED the ride. Although it was smooth, you got plastered to the sides on every turn. I have some tight abs from that truck! Haha!
Posted

So the update is: 6 trips to two dealers per GM. They have replaced Continental tires with Firestones and rebalanced them all twice on two visits. Then...they replaced the rear differential; the shaking persists.

 

I lost my mind on the GM clown that is assigned to my case. Basically he has said "we have done everything". So, he suggested I continue my open case with BBB.

 

I spoke to my local sales manager of the dealer I bought it from. He offered a trade in value that was "eh" and with that, I would still have to fork over $4000 to get into a new / identical truck. Currently I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with 18,500 miles.

 

I guess I was in "la la land" expecting that after all this hassle and months of trying to fix this, I would finally get a replacement truck.

 

The sales manager suggested if I wasn't happy with paying $4k for a difference, I should go thru arbitration.

 

Has anyone been thru that or know how that system works? Is it worth it, what do I need to know (good / bad) going into it?

 

Thank you all.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Yes, I have. I bought through GM Employee discount. If you are in the same boat, you MUST go through arbitration, as you signed a document when you purchased your vehicle saying you would never sue GM in court.

 

4 dealer trips is all it takes for your BBB case. After the 3rd, you should have contacted GM explaining they have 1 final repair attempt. Send the letter certified mail. Address to send is in the back of your owners manual. They will contact dealer and setup a date. After that repair attempt and problem still persists, you'll contact your BBB agent explaining, and from there an arbitration date will be setup.

 

Literally a day or 2 before your set arbitration date, GM will call you and offer a full MSRP trade assist...so if you find the exact same truck, you get it for free. If you find one with additional options, you pay the difference. I put 12.5k miles on my 2014 and didn't pay a dime for it other than the trips to the dealer and time...now I have a 2015.

 

Make sure you keep all records of dealer trips, service reports, etc., as you will need these for your BBB case. Your BBB agent should help you through the process. Good luck.

Posted (edited)

I can't believe that there haven't been recalls for a lot of the issues with these trucks. There are known steering column issues with our trucks too. The problem with the Ram's is that they failed to fix the issue. GM seems to be failing at fixing the vibration issue, which in my opinion is a pretty big deal. Can't say a truck that shakes its way down the road is a safe vehicle to drive.

Couldn't agree more and well said , if I'm going to crash I'd rather have it happen fast then to vibrate my way off the road and I can enjoy the ride before it happens instead of being frustrated every time I got in my truck and started vibrating between 20 and 30 mph lol .

This Ram with the Hemi is such a joy to drive !

I was in the service area when picking up my new Ram and was talking to this guy that had a Ram going on 5 years with no issues and all he's done is changed the oil and plugs and as matter of fact he liked it so much he bought another but kept his other one because it's been so good to him .That says a lot right there ??

Edited by TheFactor
Posted

Yes, so basically the District Sales Manager authorized $4000 "assistance" brining my trade in to the dealer to $37,000. Still.... A new truck is around $49k (for identical SLT) and with GM incentives plus my trade value and taxes, I'm at about $4000 difference.

 

I guess I'll see if I can convince them to shorten that gap.

 

Anyone GONE THRU arbitration? As anther Florida member mentioned, lemon laws are similar here in NH. You have to go thru Arbitration via BBB.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Yes, me...see my previous post. GM forces you to go through the entire BBB process...but once the arbitration date comes up, they call you and give up without a fight. Pretty cowardly and stubborn making people go through all that just to give up in the end.

 

The good part is, you get to drive around a free truck for the months you wait for the BBB and arbitration date stuff...

 

Keep all service report documents, follow the BBB process, and force GM to give you a free truck. It DOES WORK.

Posted

Good to know !

This is from msn money..

 

Models included in the buyback offer are certain Ram 1500s from 2009 to 2012; the Ram 1500 Mega Cab 4 by 4 from 2008; and the Ram 2500 4 by 4, 3500 4 by 4, 4500 4 by 4, and 5500 4 by 4, all from 2008 through 2012. Also part of the offer are 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango SUVs and the Dodge Dakota pickup from 2009 through 2011.

 

The Jeep issue is different, it is about the fuel tank being located too far to the rear, making it vulnerable in rear end crashes (anybody remember the Ford Pinto?)

Posted

 

The Jeep issue is different, it is about the fuel tank being located too far to the rear, making it vulnerable in rear end crashes (anybody remember the Ford Pinto?)

Oh my yes! A friend had one in high school. We were gathering for a backyard football game at a practice field and as I was pulling in behind him in my '68 Bug, my brake line split. I ran into rear of that Pinto doing maybe 5mph but I just knew it was going to blow and end it all for me.

Posted

Yes, me...see my previous post. GM forces you to go through the entire BBB process...but once the arbitration date comes up, they call you and give up without a fight. Pretty cowardly and stubborn making people go through all that just to give up in the end.

 

The good part is, you get to drive around a free truck for the months you wait for the BBB and arbitration date stuff...

 

Keep all service report documents, follow the BBB process, and force GM to give you a free truck. It DOES WORK.

Technically it's not free, I've been paying my stupid payments on time when due up until now and will have to continue to do so until they decide to change it. If they decide to reimburse some of my payments THEN it's free! I don't see how getting car sick every single day on the highway for 45 mins each way is worth it. I'm beyond pissed off with my vehicle. Also, did they do a change of collateral or did you refinance the new VIN? I don't want to have to take out a new loan. I'd rather keep paying the original one off. We reopened our case last Monday after our final repair attempt and haven't heard a peep from GM. I'm assuming we'll get an arbitration date Friday or Monday. Here's to hoping!

Posted

Hey all...new to the forum and wanted to post my situation. I have a '14 Silverado Rally with around 8k miles on it. I have an annoying vibration from 70-80mph which you can feel in the seat and see the center console shake like crazy. I recently took it to the dealer and was told the techs cannot drive the car faster than 55mph which doesnt help me. They drove it anyway and claim they felt the vibration, they load balanced the tires saying 3 of them were off 1 oz. I received the call that it was ready for pickup and the vibration seemed to be "better".....again they didn’t sound too confident. Needless to say its still there and re-balancing the tires did nothing. Im going to take it in again but I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how I can force them to drive it on the highway at the speeds where the vibration actually occurs.....I dont want to hear the 55mph BS excuse again. Im really bummed as this is the first new truck I have ever owned, Ive been buying used all my life. I traded in a 2002 silverado with 200k miles that drove smoother.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Jim

Posted

Hey all...new to the forum and wanted to post my situation. I have a '14 Silverado Rally with around 8k miles on it. I have an annoying vibration from 70-80mph which you can feel in the seat and see the center console shake like crazy. I recently took it to the dealer and was told the techs cannot drive the car faster than 55mph which doesnt help me. They drove it anyway and claim they felt the vibration, they load balanced the tires saying 3 of them were off 1 oz. I received the call that it was ready for pickup and the vibration seemed to be "better".....again they didn’t sound too confident. Needless to say its still there and re-balancing the tires did nothing. Im going to take it in again but I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how I can force them to drive it on the highway at the speeds where the vibration actually occurs.....I dont want to hear the 55mph BS excuse again. Im really bummed as this is the first new truck I have ever owned, Ive been buying used all my life. I traded in a 2002 silverado with 200k miles that drove smoother.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Jim

Welcome to the forum Jim,

 

We all know how you feel...Really we do !

 

Go right to the service manager, or owner otherwise find a different store ;)

DO NOT LET THEM BS YOU ! ! !

 

All of the posts here are not because we can't something better to do.

Posted

This is from msn money..

 

Models included in the buyback offer are certain Ram 1500s from 2009 to 2012; the Ram 1500 Mega Cab 4 by 4 from 2008; and the Ram 2500 4 by 4, 3500 4 by 4, 4500 4 by 4, and 5500 4 by 4, all from 2008 through 2012. Also part of the offer are 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango SUVs and the Dodge Dakota pickup from 2009 through 2011.

 

The Jeep issue is different, it is about the fuel tank being located too far to the rear, making it vulnerable in rear end crashes (anybody remember the Ford Pinto?)

Thanks for the Info ??

Posted

Technically it's not free, I've been paying my stupid payments on time when due up until now and will have to continue to do so until they decide to change it. If they decide to reimburse some of my payments THEN it's free! I don't see how getting car sick every single day on the highway for 45 mins each way is worth it. I'm beyond pissed off with my vehicle. Also, did they do a change of collateral or did you refinance the new VIN? I don't want to have to take out a new loan. I'd rather keep paying the original one off. We reopened our case last Monday after our final repair attempt and haven't heard a peep from GM. I'm assuming we'll get an arbitration date Friday or Monday. Here's to hoping!

I paid cash for the truck so the dealership handled the title transfer and all I needed to do was sign some paperwork. My situation was fairly painless as far as exchanging trucks.

Posted

Lots of us have been discovering that our rear axle u-bolts are not tightened to spec. This causes the yoke clunk and it feels like the transmission is slipping.

 

Has anyone tried to tighten their u-bolts to see if it would reduce the vibration? they should apparently be at 78ft/lb and some guys are able to get a couple turns out of them before the torque wrench clicks. Very possible this would make the rear axle have some play in it, and could cause a vibration.

  • Like 1
Posted

I paid cash for the truck so the dealership handled the title transfer and all I needed to do was sign some paperwork. My situation was fairly painless as far as exchanging trucks.

That makes sense! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...