Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

But that's just powertrain warranty, right? Infiniti and Mitsubishi offer a 5 year/60k mile bumper to bumper warranty. If GM did that, I would consider it a major improvement.

B2B is still 3 year/ 36k miles
Posted

Someone needs to remove the tires from the wheels, put the wheel on a hub-centred mandrel, and measure the radial and lateral runout with a proper dial indicator, not the measurements that May or may not be done on the Hunter RF machine. I don't trust that stupid little arm that the Hunter machine uses. And when we see that every tire vibrates on these trucks, including totally different make/model of tire, I can't believe every tire manufactured is defective. It's too preposterous to believe. Gotta be the wheels. Or the hubs. Or the hub-centric fit is too loose.

 

Has anyone put aftermarket wheels on? Hub-centric or lug-centric? Result?

Posted

I picked up my truck today after multiple road force balances, new driveshaft, new front tire and 4 new shocks and I have no change in the center console vibration. Now the dealer working on it wants me to bring it back in and have the field rep go over it again. This poor dealership has had several trucks in for the same thing and can't get them fixed. I actually feel sorry for them.

  • Like 2
Posted

My recent issues have seemingly been solved by another tire rotation and balance. All four wheels out of balance from the last balance about 7k miles ago. Wondering if these 20" Goodyears just go whacko after 5k miles? Anyway, much smoother ride at 78 mph to and from work today. Feeling much better about my deal...good luck.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've seen where a lot of people were concerned with this being related to the larger diameter rims or the goodyear tires but I have the regular 17in rims with bridgestone duelers. One dealership has the pico pointing to the driveshaft while another shows it being a tire/suspension issue. As the dealership told me....nobody knows whats going on. Same problem since late 2013, you would think they'd have this figured out by now.

Posted (edited)

Someone needs to remove the tires from the wheels, put the wheel on a hub-centred mandrel, and measure the radial and lateral runout with a proper dial indicator, not the measurements that May or may not be done on the Hunter RF machine. I don't trust that stupid little arm that the Hunter machine uses. And when we see that every tire vibrates on these trucks, including totally different make/model of tire, I can't believe every tire manufactured is defective. It's too preposterous to believe. Gotta be the wheels. Or the hubs. Or the hub-centric fit is too loose.

 

Has anyone put aftermarket wheels on? Hub-centric or lug-centric? Result?

Does anyone at these dealerships use flange plates to hold the wheel on the balancer by the lug holes instead of centering it though the center hole with a cone? There aren't too many wheels that are not hub centric, but there may be a few and those simply cannot be balanced properly without using special adapters.

 

I think the arm you mention on the Hunter balancer measures the rim width, diameter and offset after the wheel is mounted and automatically enters these parameters into the machine. I personally prefer balancers with a manual data entry. This way it is difficult to make a mistake. After you mount the wheel, you typically enter the following data: rim width in inches, rim diameter in inches, and then the rim offset (distance from the fixed point on the machine to the rim). if you are not sure about the first two parameters, you measure them with a hand caliper supplied with the balancer. The last parameter is often entered in millimeters on European heritage machines such as Bosch, Kwik Way, or Sicam balancers. You measure the offset with a built in spring loaded arm on the machine. However, unlike with the Hunter 9700, you must enter the data on the keypad manually.

Edited by pm26
  • Like 1
Posted

My 2015 Sierra Denali 6.2 8 speed was dropped off at the dealer yesterday with the same vibration.

 

Thud occurs normally when rolling up to a stoplight and stepping back on the gas.

Vibration occurs when accelerating with a light foot as the engine revs through 1500 to 1600 rpm. Also, at any stready speed that has the engine at that rpm. 47 mph, 58 mph and 67 mph. Almost like the transmission is slipping or the computer cannot pick what gear its wants to be in.

 

Service writer wrote it up yesterday afternoon. This morning after a short test drive and 5 minutes of research the dealership calls me to tell me it is a issue with the torque converter. A known issue. A new and improved torque converter will be available soon or I can request a new transmission with the new torque converter and latest software/firmware control updates. I requested a new transmission because who knows what this junk one has done to the trans. All of this is supposedly documented in a Technical Service Bulletin that came out last month- mid-October 2015. I did not get a bulletin # and could not find anything on line about but I am driving a dealer loaner for the next week or so while they get the new transmission in. I did not have to speak to anyone other than the service writer. Hopefully my truck comes back fixed and these issues go away. Already had the ujoints on the driveshaft fixed a few months back.

Posted

After warning GM with a LEMON LAW ,I got a response to the months of my truck vibrating .

Tuesday I have an appointment with the field rep at Ed Morse Sawgrass FL

 

I must say that this dealer has been fantastic , when ever my truck has been in ,they have organized alone for me ,

They have done very thing that the factory have suggested .

 

Well lets Tuesday my truck is back at the dealer now lets see GM wiggle out of this .

 

My not sure of what my options to the out come will be if GM can't fix the vibration .

A new truck ?

or a refund? less the 15000 miles Ive driven ?

 

I have seen the new 2016 Sierra , with the modified engine mounts

or a new 2016 Toyota Tundra .

I think that the Toyota 5.7 liter engine is an old design , it defiantly isn't as fuel efficient as the direct engine 5.3 liter GM engine . But Toyotas have a reputation of reliability .

 

Ford ? look at the you tube videos of the crash tests of the Sierra and the Tundra and then the new aluminum F150 double cab and single cab , those things crumple like an old coke can , no thanks .

Also the new ecoboost engine produce impressive HP and torque figures . BUT will they last for 150000 miles plus ?

GM and Toyota will .

 

So lets see what solution or fix GM have .

Posted

Do what makes you feel good. Toyota are good trucks and they haven't changed anything for years so it will probably be the most reliable but with a gas mileage penalty. I don't see the ford aluminum body being any weaker than the paper thin sheet metal that GM puts on our trucks so I think you are way off base on that one, the frame is what determines how a vehicle handles a crash and the ford has a steel frame. I also have my doubts on turbo engines but I also have my doubts on Direct Injection with cylinder deactivation lasting 150k miles as well! TIres and rims out of round on a sensitive frame is the reason for most peoples vibes. For those with the more serious vibe problems I am betting that GM knows exactly what the problem is because after 2 years of this even their dumbest engineer should have figured it out by now. They just don't want to do anything about it because it will be to expensive.

Posted (edited)

Do what makes you feel good. Toyota are good trucks and they haven't changed anything for years so it will probably be the most reliable but with a gas mileage penalty. I don't see the ford aluminum body being any weaker than the paper thin sheet metal that GM puts on our trucks so I think you are way off base on that one, the frame is what determines how a vehicle handles a crash and the ford has a steel frame. I also have my doubts on turbo engines but I also have my doubts on Direct Injection with cylinder deactivation lasting 150k miles as well! TIres and rims out of round on a sensitive frame is the reason for most peoples vibes. For those with the more serious vibe problems I am betting that GM knows exactly what the problem is because after 2 years of this even their dumbest engineer should have figured it out by now. They just don't want to do anything about it because it will be to expensive.

Agree 100% with everything you said. I had a toyota before the the gm 0 problems ford before that this is the first gm truck i have owned since 1995. I like the truck alot the ride could be alittle better off road. Had to have the tires (275/55/20 chrome rim) replaced with (michelin ltx m/s2) at 1000 miles they were flat spotted from the beginning. I have a vibration between 75 and 85 worst at about 82. I only get up to about 63 to 65 on my daily drive so the vib is no problem. Few days ago went on a 300 mile round trip where the speed limit was 70 so I hit 75 + alot and on smooth new pavement the vibration was bad. I'am going to get the wheels balanced and see if it helps. When I had the tires replaced the right front wheel had a line of inside weights about 5 inches long from the factory when they balanced them it still took alot so they put that wheel on the right back. I told them that wheel needs to be replaced but there ears were stopped up. Once I get them balanced going to mark the rear tires at the valve stems to make sure they are not turning on the rim. If I had to drive it everyday at 75 plus and the vib could not be fixed I would go back to toyota or ford as much as I like the gmc.

Edited by southern_sierra
Posted (edited)

Do what makes you feel good. Toyota are good trucks and they haven't changed anything for years so it will probably be the most reliable but with a gas mileage penalty. I don't see the ford aluminum body being any weaker than the paper thin sheet metal that GM puts on our trucks so I think you are way off base on that one, the frame is what determines how a vehicle handles a crash and the ford has a steel frame. I also have my doubts on turbo engines but I also have my doubts on Direct Injection with cylinder deactivation lasting 150k miles as well! TIres and rims out of round on a sensitive frame is the reason for most peoples vibes. For those with the more serious vibe problems I am betting that GM knows exactly what the problem is because after 2 years of this even their dumbest engineer should have figured it out by now. They just don't want to do anything about it because it will be to expensive.

And on the other hand, their new trucks are so cheap that you can trade up every six months, just using some spare change. :crackup:

Edited by pm26
Posted

I picked up my truck today after multiple road force balances, new driveshaft, new front tire and 4 new shocks and I have no change in the center console vibration. Now the dealer working on it wants me to bring it back in and have the field rep go over it again. This poor dealership has had several trucks in for the same thing and can't get them fixed. I actually feel sorry for them.

Well, there is no substitute for Chinese quality.

Posted

I purchased my 2014 Silveraldo Z71 w/5.3L a year ago, i have complained about a clunk and now i have this vibration going on. I am not at all pleased with my NEW truck, GM just keeps feeding me BS in hope that i will stop complaining. I have been a loyal GM man all my life(30t years), this has changed me. I will not buy another GM, i will research Ford, Dodge and Toyota with great detail. I've looked at various forums to see a large number of people with the same issues and GM does nothing with any substance to resolve these issues.

There are a lot very loyal GM people out there dealing with issues that i feel are unacceptable!

Posted

I finally had enough of my vibration and 2 different dealers not wanting to fix it or even attempted to fix it. Always got the whole "it drives like its intended too" so I traded it in on a new truck.. Sad day it was because I really like the truck a lot!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...