Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

650h1 Enthusiast

650h1

Posted
Posted

It's honestly sad GM cant fix this issue. I'll bet it has something to do with the cylinder deactivation. Anyone who had the cylinder deactivation shut off in this thread?

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

It's honestly sad GM cant fix this issue. I'll bet it has something to do with the cylinder deactivation. Anyone who had the cylinder deactivation shut off in this thread?

Right here lol
rpoffen Enthusiast

rpoffen

Posted
Posted

It's honestly sad GM cant fix this issue. I'll bet it has something to do with the cylinder deactivation. Anyone who had the cylinder deactivation shut off in this thread?

 

Easy enough to test. Put the trans in M5 mode, this disables AFM.

This has been covered in earlier posts in this thread, it did not help the highway vibes.

  • Like 1
paxtonman Enthusiast

paxtonman

Posted
Posted

Took a ride in my Sierra buyback truck today with the GM engineer with his PICO scope. I will be getting another truck. Working with dealer to order one this time to get the latest greatest tranny, software, etc.

BO TIE 1 Enthusiast

BO TIE 1

Posted
Posted

 

 

It's honestly sad GM cant fix this issue. I'll bet it has something to do with the cylinder deactivation. Anyone who had the cylinder deactivation shut off in this thread?

Mine is turned off. Vibration still comes and goes.

 

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

650h1 Enthusiast

650h1

Posted
Posted

Hmm, that's bull shit then. How many people have 20"+ wheels with the issue?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RJNavarrete Enthusiast

RJNavarrete

Posted
Posted

Everyone that has the vibration listen up. My 2014 Sierra was fixed by having the rear end rebuilt. It turned out that there are bad seals in the rear differential so they replaced it and the pinion and a gear. Running smooth now. Background: Steering wheel shook at 40-52 mph especially when coasting to a stop. They tried new tires and road force balancing but that did not work. One GM engineer even told my service manager that they could replace every part on the truck and it would still shake. Don't take that for an answer. Paying 40+K for a vehicle and having that shaking is not acceptable. BTW, mine did not start until 5K miles and got worse until about 15K. Now I hope it is fixed at 19K. Good luck and hope this helps.

Argh. Not looking forward to having to go through the dealer for all of this crap. Mine definitely has the slight shudder/vibration on the steering wheel (a bit felt in general, hand off wheel) at the 52-40 range. Both up and down, but mostly during deceleration and braking in that range. :(

rshad Enthusiast

rshad

Posted
Posted

Hmm, that's bull shit then. How many people have 20"+ wheels with the issue?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have to go back thru all these post. It seems like there is no optional part, model or version that has or does not have the vibration problem. It just seems to be hit and miss. That is why it is so hard to pin point to fix. There have been numerous attempts with changing just about everything even more then once and nothing has been found to be the problem.

mjj Enthusiast

mjj

Posted
Posted

I will be pissed if they tell me tires! I have Toyo Open Country All Terrains on and they ride like glass and grip like tape! Tires are not the problem in my opinion!

I bought my 14 a few months ago and added a level and 33s...it shakes at 70ish a bit. I bought it used with a tad more then 30K miles on it.... Drove it 15min with the stocl tires to the suspension shop that did my level/tires.

Can i still take it to the dealer and have them look at it?

I have larger than stock Toyo Open Country AT2's (no level) on my 2014 and I have a petal vibrations at around 70mph+ and a slight "unsettled" feeling sometimes as some on here have called it. Dealer wouldn't look at my truck with the Toyos on it and had to swap em back to stock for them to look at it. They blamed the Toyos. They did re-mount and re-balanced my Toyos for me and sent me on my way. The petal vibe I feel is basically the same since it was new, it's annoying sometimes but has not gotten worse. I have almost 20k miles now. But I had these same Toyo tires on my 2005 and didn't have this issue so its hard for me to believe it's tires unless these truck are much more sensitive to tires. Oh and one of the service write up guys compared my 2014 to my 2005 as being like a 3/4 ton or HD truck because the new ones have stiffer stronger frames and suspension as to haul and tow more. I guess this is what we get when the truck companies continue to play the whos got the biggest d*ck game always trying to one up each other on the largest towing capacity crap. Honestly if I needed a truck to tow 11k lbs I would have bought an HD. They need to cut this crap out with the half tons.
paxtonman Enthusiast

paxtonman

Posted
Posted

I have larger than stock Toyo Open Country AT2's (no level) on my 2014 and I have a petal vibrations at around 70mph+ and a slight "unsettled" feeling sometimes as some on here have called it. Dealer wouldn't look at my truck with the Toyos on it and had to swap em back to stock for them to look at it. They blamed the Toyos. They did re-mount and re-balanced my Toyos for me and sent me on my way. The petal vibe I feel is basically the same since it was new, it's annoying sometimes but has not gotten worse. I have almost 20k miles now. But I had these same Toyo tires on my 2005 and didn't have this issue so its hard for me to believe it's tires unless these truck are much more sensitive to tires. Oh and one of the service write up guys compared my 2014 to my 2005 as being like a 3/4 ton or HD truck because the new ones have stiffer stronger frames and suspension as to haul and tow more. I guess this is what we get when the truck companies continue to play the whos got the biggest d*ck game always trying to one up each other on the largest towing capacity crap. Honestly if I needed a truck to tow 11k lbs I would have bought an HD. They need to cut this crap out with the half tons.

 

Exactly what I told the engineer today, crew cab short box trucks today are people haulers and they need to start reflecting that. If you need a 3/4 ton buy one.

mikegmi2 Enthusiast

mikegmi2

Posted
Posted (edited)

Tire size doesn't matter. I've been going through this for 2 years now and am on second Silverado, soon to be third if they do not give me a full buy back this second BBB case.

 

The rear axle fix will correct the 40-50mph vibe in steering wheel, mostly felt during a coast to stop. That is NOT the vibration other people feel at 70-80mph. This problem, GM has no fix for other than replacing tires, removing body and rebalancing, removing engine and remounting, etc.

 

I test drove 11-12 (lost count) Sierra and Silverado trucks while searching for my MSRP replacement as part of my BBB settlement. It took that many to find one that didn't vibrate. And, after about 1000 miles, it also started vibrating. In my experience they ALL have the problem of 75+mph vibrations.

 

Also, this story ran last night in Detroit:

 

http://www.clickondetroit.com/automotive/some-drivers-complain-of-vibrations-in-chevy-full-size-suvs

 

I wish they would have ran one regarding the pickup truck vibration problems...maybe that will be next.

Edited by mikegmi2
mikegmi2 Enthusiast

mikegmi2

Posted
Posted

The gas pedal vibration is why GM did a MSRP exchange with me on my 2014 Silverado Crew All Star. They have no real fix for this, and never told me what caused it...after 4 service visits and a BBB case.

 

It takes a bit of time and effort, but the BBB is your only way out if you are unhappy with your truck...and it DOES work.

 

Keep all your service visit paperwork, start a BBB case, and work with your BBB agent. It is 100% FREE.

rpoffen Enthusiast

rpoffen

Posted
Posted

Tire size doesn't matter. I've been going through this for 2 years now and am on second Silverado, soon to be third if they do not give me a full buy back this second BBB case.

 

The rear axle fix will correct the 40-50mph vibe in steering wheel, mostly felt during a coast to stop. That is NOT the vibration other people feel at 70-80mph. This problem, GM has no fix for other than replacing tires, removing body and rebalancing, removing engine and remounting, etc.

 

I test drove 11-12 (lost count) Sierra and Silverado trucks while searching for my MSRP replacement as part of my BBB settlement. It took that many to find one that didn't vibrate. And, after about 1000 miles, it also started vibrating. In my experience they ALL have the problem of 75+mph vibrations.

 

Also, this story ran last night in Detroit:

 

http://www.clickondetroit.com/automotive/some-drivers-complain-of-vibrations-in-chevy-full-size-suvs

 

I wish they would have ran one regarding the pickup truck vibration problems...maybe that will be next.

 

That's because the guy that got the story out has a Yukon, so that is all they concentrated on. In the original article they got a mention that the trucks have a vibration issue, but never got into it any further.

Since the truck vibe problem appears to be bigger than the SUV buffeting/booming, then I think somehow a truck specific story needs to get pushed to the media.

 

I mentioned this once before, but I don't think anybody followed up on it, but if someone has a vibrator in the Denver Colorado area, there is a consumer talk show on KHOW radio (Tom Martino troubleshooter show) that likes to help with stories like these. Every Friday they have "car day" and tend to focus on car problems. They have a couple pretty sharp people usually in the studio that run car shops. One is even the owner of Purifoy Chevrolet.

 

The show airs on KHOW (AM 630) from 10am to 1pm local time. Someone who has a vibrator in the greater Denver area should call the show at 303.713.TALK (303-713-8255) and see about getting on the air. You can call anytime and they will schedule to get you on the air if you like to tell your story.

bosro Enthusiast

bosro

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well Ive got 9k km on my truck,stock tires were swapped out for Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs at 4k kms in September.

All my driving since putting new tires on has been back roads and gravel.....hunting season.

Never had it on major highway at higher speeds till yesterday.

Surprse surprise vibes at 115km/hr and up.

Does not feel thru steering wheel as much as thru body itself.

Manual on tranny from 5th up has same result.

In the past with the 20" rims I've found mud built up on inside of rims to be the culprit(with the former F150 as well as these) but in this case there was little.

Only other thing was I had my roll top cover extended....don't do that often.

Maybe caused some different turbulence.

Tires are getting checked today....I'll test the truck after with roll top rolled up.

Edited by bosro
  • Like 1
Homer650 Enthusiast

Homer650

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well I just got off the phone with my service manager. My truck has been there since Tuesday. They are telling me the drive shaft has to be balanced, which he says will be done by adding two hose clamps. This is trip #5.

 

Obviously I'm going to give them a chance but from reading through the replies on this thread it's not going to work.

 

Has this worked for anyone?

Edited by Homer650
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • B07
      Anyone have a spare?

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...