Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

BeauTie Enthusiast

BeauTie

Posted
Posted

How many of you guys have marked your tires to see if they are spinning on the rims? Ziemer reported back in October that his tires were slipping on his 20" rims (like 7 to 10 inches!) and that was after his dealer discovered they were slipping and let them sit overnight after remounting them presumably with something to stop the slippage.

 

This slipping would obviously interfere with the balancing so would explain the need to rebalance tires constantly and some inconsistency in the vibration from day to day. Just curious how many guys have checked for this.

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Bill Heg Enthusiast

Bill Heg

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone. Back in May, 2015 I purchased a 2015 All Terain Sierra. Loved the truck, hated the ride. Had the shake at low and high speeds. It was not consistent, some days it was there some days it was not. Very disappointed in the ride. Had traded a 2006 Chevy Avalanche which had an awesome ride so going to this issue caused me to regret buying this truck. Was determined to live with it, but was not happy. Ended up back at the dealership buying my wife a new Buick and saw a 2016 Sierra with the 6.2 liter engine. Ended up trading in the 2015 for the 2016 and could not be happier. The shake is gone, and no rumble at low speed like I had with the 2015. Now I look forward to driving again. Not sure what GMC did for the 2016's but for me it solved the issue.

rshad Enthusiast

rshad

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Everyone. Back in May, 2015 I purchased a 2015 All Terain Sierra. Loved the truck, hated the ride. Had the shake at low and high speeds. It was not consistent, some days it was there some days it was not. Very disappointed in the ride. Had traded a 2006 Chevy Avalanche which had an awesome ride so going to this issue caused me to regret buying this truck. Was determined to live with it, but was not happy. Ended up back at the dealership buying my wife a new Buick and saw a 2016 Sierra with the 6.2 liter engine. Ended up trading in the 2015 for the 2016 and could not be happier. The shake is gone, and no rumble at low speed like I had with the 2015. Now I look forward to driving again. Not sure what GMC did for the 2016's but for me it solved the issue.

 

Not to put a damper on anything but how long have you had the 2016? My truck did not start vibrating until after 600 or 700 miles and some on here have even made it over 2000 before having the vibration. I was wondering because when I start complaining with my dealer the only thing I can do is a trade because I won't have enough cash to get into any other brand so I would be looking into getting a 2016. I just purchased my truck (2015) in October. Did they do a buy-back or did you take a hit on the 2015 to get into the 2016?

Edited by rshad
Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing the buffeting problem on suv's may be different than the vibration problem some trucks are experiencing. It's my experience that the annoying what I call harmonic vibration can be experienced on just about any modern vehicle simply by rolling down the drivers window. Being that I'm an old school kind of guy I enjoy driving along with the window down occasionally. So, to avoid harmonic buffeting I've found that dropping the rear passengers side window maybe 4 ~ 6 inches will greatly reduce or even eliminate it. However, on SUV'S the roof is definitely a very long run of sheet metal. So, it's easy to understand that if its not attached properly to the bows there could be hormonic vibration caused by oscillation of the roofs sheet metal when driving at speed.

 

About the truck problem; appears several folks have zeroed in on tires or wheels being out of balance. And, that in some instances Road Force balancing has greatly reduced or even eliminated the problem. I've noticed especially noticed this whenever there's aftermarket products entered into the equation, not always but often. Anyway, my two bits on this is to stay with in-spec wheels and tires. Personally, I use Discount Tire exclusively and run only Michelin tires. I pay a few bucks more but have learned that they're worth the money. Side note; I've never noticed whether DT utilizes Road Force balancing machines or not. My 2015 6.2L Silverado Crew LTZ 4x4 has about 12k miles. When it's up for tires I will pay attention and ask the guys at the DT store where I do business. Calf Rope :)

Bill Heg Enthusiast

Bill Heg

Posted
Posted

 

Not to put a damper on anything but how long have you had the 2016? My truck did not start vibrating until after 600 or 700 miles and some on here have even made it over 2000 before having the vibration. I was wondering because when I start complaining with my dealer the only thing I can do is a trade because I won't have enough cash to get into any other brand so I would be looking into getting a 2016. I just purchased my truck (2015) in October. Did they do a buy-back or did you take a hit on the 2015 to get into the 2016?

Rshad, I just bought the 2016 in early December. Good point, I don't have a lot of miles on it yet, I think around 300. My 2015 vibrated right from the start, I noticed it on the test ride but thought it was because I was on unfamiliar roads, but on the ride home I really noticed it. I then came here to these forums and found out how may people were having this problem. I traded the 2015 back to the dealer for the 2016, so yeah I did take a bit of a hit, but am very happy with the 2016.....so far, it just seems to work better. No delay on the touch screen (I believe they upgraded the computer), LED headlights (didn't like the projector beams in the 2015), rides better and the 6.2 liter with the 8 speed tranny is sweet. I just hope the shake does not rear it's nasty head.

Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
Posted

I bought my 14 a few months ago and added a level and 33s...it shakes at 70ish a bit. I bought it used with a tad more then 30K miles on it.... Drove it 15min with the stocl tires to the suspension shop that did my level/tires.

 

Can i still take it to the dealer and have them look at it?

RJNavarrete Enthusiast

RJNavarrete

Posted
Posted

I was hoping it would go away, but thus far it looks like it's sticking (at 800 miles here): I have a slight steering wheel shake when decelerating in the 50-42 mph range. Does anyone else's truck do this? Anyone know if this is easily fixable? What could be the cause? Not sure if I really feel it while accelerating, but it's definitely there when decelerating.

rpoffen Enthusiast

rpoffen

Posted
Posted (edited)

I bought my 14 a few months ago and added a level and 33s...it shakes at 70ish a bit. I bought it used with a tad more then 30K miles on it.... Drove it 15min with the stocl tires to the suspension shop that did my level/tires.

 

Can i still take it to the dealer and have them look at it?

 

The B2B warranty is still in effect if it is less than 36K miles/36months, it is transferrable.

However, they may claim that the level/tires are responsible and make you revert it back to stock before they will look at the vibration issues.

 

Edited by rpoffen
rpoffen Enthusiast

rpoffen

Posted
Posted

I was hoping it would go away, but thus far it looks like it's sticking (at 800 miles here): I have a slight steering wheel shake when decelerating in the 50-42 mph range. Does anyone else's truck do this? Anyone know if this is easily fixable? What could be the cause? Not sure if I really feel it while accelerating, but it's definitely there when decelerating.

 

By decelerating do you mean braking or just coasting? If while braking, then could be rotors, If just decelerating, then there have been reports of improperly shimmed rear-ends causing too much backlash or improper preload of the pinion.

RJNavarrete Enthusiast

RJNavarrete

Posted
Posted

 

By decelerating do you mean braking or just coasting? If while braking, then could be rotors, If just decelerating, then there have been reports of improperly shimmed rear-ends causing too much backlash or improper preload of the pinion.

I *think* it has been only while braking, but I'll try letting it coast during my lunch break and report.

Andre Oliveira New Member

Andre Oliveira

Posted
Posted

i bought my truck 3 months ago, same issue dealer been changing tires every week, i just contact GM CORP. and they called the dealer and they are working to solve the problem. i've been told by one of the techs that the they have no idea how to fix it and recommend that i should ask for a new truck.

steveU Enthusiast

steveU

Posted
Posted

Everyone that has the vibration listen up. My 2014 Sierra was fixed by having the rear end rebuilt. It turned out that there are bad seals in the rear differential so they replaced it and the pinion and a gear. Running smooth now. Background: Steering wheel shook at 40-52 mph especially when coasting to a stop. They tried new tires and road force balancing but that did not work. One GM engineer even told my service manager that they could replace every part on the truck and it would still shake. Don't take that for an answer. Paying 40+K for a vehicle and having that shaking is not acceptable. BTW, mine did not start until 5K miles and got worse until about 15K. Now I hope it is fixed at 19K. Good luck and hope this helps.

  • Like 2
Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
Posted

 

The B2B warranty is still in effect if it is less than 36K miles/36months, it is transferrable.

However, they may claim that the level/tires are responsible and make you revert it back to stock before they will look at the vibration issues.

 

Truck has well over 36K now. I will still take it to the dealer when i get a chance.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted (edited)

Everyone that has the vibration listen up. My 2014 Sierra was fixed by having the rear end rebuilt. It turned out that there are bad seals in the rear differential so they replaced it and the pinion and a gear. Running smooth now. Background: Steering wheel shook at 40-52 mph especially when coasting to a stop. They tried new tires and road force balancing but that did not work. One GM engineer even told my service manager that they could replace every part on the truck and it would still shake. Don't take that for an answer. Paying 40+K for a vehicle and having that shaking is not acceptable. BTW, mine did not start until 5K miles and got worse until about 15K. Now I hope it is fixed at 19K. Good luck and hope this helps.

Bad seals cause oil leaks, not vibration. Replacing those have nothing to do with your vibration problem. Maybe pinion shaft and its bearings and the ring gear. Quite possibly the preload on the pinion shaft bearings was not correct due to pinion shaft nut being loose.

Edited by pm26
  • Like 1
steveU Enthusiast

steveU

Posted
Posted

Bad seals cause oil leaks, not vibration. Replacing those have nothing to do with your vibration problem. Maybe pinion shaft and its bearings and the ring gear. Quite possibly the preload on the pinion shaft bearings was not correct due to pinion shaft nut being loose.

I didn't say the seals caused the vibration. I just stated what they did.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...