Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

How many of you guys have marked your tires to see if they are spinning on the rims? Ziemer reported back in October that his tires were slipping on his 20" rims (like 7 to 10 inches!) and that was after his dealer discovered they were slipping and let them sit overnight after remounting them presumably with something to stop the slippage.

 

This slipping would obviously interfere with the balancing so would explain the need to rebalance tires constantly and some inconsistency in the vibration from day to day. Just curious how many guys have checked for this.

Posted

Hi Everyone. Back in May, 2015 I purchased a 2015 All Terain Sierra. Loved the truck, hated the ride. Had the shake at low and high speeds. It was not consistent, some days it was there some days it was not. Very disappointed in the ride. Had traded a 2006 Chevy Avalanche which had an awesome ride so going to this issue caused me to regret buying this truck. Was determined to live with it, but was not happy. Ended up back at the dealership buying my wife a new Buick and saw a 2016 Sierra with the 6.2 liter engine. Ended up trading in the 2015 for the 2016 and could not be happier. The shake is gone, and no rumble at low speed like I had with the 2015. Now I look forward to driving again. Not sure what GMC did for the 2016's but for me it solved the issue.

Posted (edited)

Hi Everyone. Back in May, 2015 I purchased a 2015 All Terain Sierra. Loved the truck, hated the ride. Had the shake at low and high speeds. It was not consistent, some days it was there some days it was not. Very disappointed in the ride. Had traded a 2006 Chevy Avalanche which had an awesome ride so going to this issue caused me to regret buying this truck. Was determined to live with it, but was not happy. Ended up back at the dealership buying my wife a new Buick and saw a 2016 Sierra with the 6.2 liter engine. Ended up trading in the 2015 for the 2016 and could not be happier. The shake is gone, and no rumble at low speed like I had with the 2015. Now I look forward to driving again. Not sure what GMC did for the 2016's but for me it solved the issue.

 

Not to put a damper on anything but how long have you had the 2016? My truck did not start vibrating until after 600 or 700 miles and some on here have even made it over 2000 before having the vibration. I was wondering because when I start complaining with my dealer the only thing I can do is a trade because I won't have enough cash to get into any other brand so I would be looking into getting a 2016. I just purchased my truck (2015) in October. Did they do a buy-back or did you take a hit on the 2015 to get into the 2016?

Edited by rshad
Posted

I'm guessing the buffeting problem on suv's may be different than the vibration problem some trucks are experiencing. It's my experience that the annoying what I call harmonic vibration can be experienced on just about any modern vehicle simply by rolling down the drivers window. Being that I'm an old school kind of guy I enjoy driving along with the window down occasionally. So, to avoid harmonic buffeting I've found that dropping the rear passengers side window maybe 4 ~ 6 inches will greatly reduce or even eliminate it. However, on SUV'S the roof is definitely a very long run of sheet metal. So, it's easy to understand that if its not attached properly to the bows there could be hormonic vibration caused by oscillation of the roofs sheet metal when driving at speed.

 

About the truck problem; appears several folks have zeroed in on tires or wheels being out of balance. And, that in some instances Road Force balancing has greatly reduced or even eliminated the problem. I've noticed especially noticed this whenever there's aftermarket products entered into the equation, not always but often. Anyway, my two bits on this is to stay with in-spec wheels and tires. Personally, I use Discount Tire exclusively and run only Michelin tires. I pay a few bucks more but have learned that they're worth the money. Side note; I've never noticed whether DT utilizes Road Force balancing machines or not. My 2015 6.2L Silverado Crew LTZ 4x4 has about 12k miles. When it's up for tires I will pay attention and ask the guys at the DT store where I do business. Calf Rope :)

Posted

 

Not to put a damper on anything but how long have you had the 2016? My truck did not start vibrating until after 600 or 700 miles and some on here have even made it over 2000 before having the vibration. I was wondering because when I start complaining with my dealer the only thing I can do is a trade because I won't have enough cash to get into any other brand so I would be looking into getting a 2016. I just purchased my truck (2015) in October. Did they do a buy-back or did you take a hit on the 2015 to get into the 2016?

Rshad, I just bought the 2016 in early December. Good point, I don't have a lot of miles on it yet, I think around 300. My 2015 vibrated right from the start, I noticed it on the test ride but thought it was because I was on unfamiliar roads, but on the ride home I really noticed it. I then came here to these forums and found out how may people were having this problem. I traded the 2015 back to the dealer for the 2016, so yeah I did take a bit of a hit, but am very happy with the 2016.....so far, it just seems to work better. No delay on the touch screen (I believe they upgraded the computer), LED headlights (didn't like the projector beams in the 2015), rides better and the 6.2 liter with the 8 speed tranny is sweet. I just hope the shake does not rear it's nasty head.

Posted

I bought my 14 a few months ago and added a level and 33s...it shakes at 70ish a bit. I bought it used with a tad more then 30K miles on it.... Drove it 15min with the stocl tires to the suspension shop that did my level/tires.

 

Can i still take it to the dealer and have them look at it?

Posted

I was hoping it would go away, but thus far it looks like it's sticking (at 800 miles here): I have a slight steering wheel shake when decelerating in the 50-42 mph range. Does anyone else's truck do this? Anyone know if this is easily fixable? What could be the cause? Not sure if I really feel it while accelerating, but it's definitely there when decelerating.

Posted (edited)

I bought my 14 a few months ago and added a level and 33s...it shakes at 70ish a bit. I bought it used with a tad more then 30K miles on it.... Drove it 15min with the stocl tires to the suspension shop that did my level/tires.

 

Can i still take it to the dealer and have them look at it?

 

The B2B warranty is still in effect if it is less than 36K miles/36months, it is transferrable.

However, they may claim that the level/tires are responsible and make you revert it back to stock before they will look at the vibration issues.

 

Edited by rpoffen
Posted

I was hoping it would go away, but thus far it looks like it's sticking (at 800 miles here): I have a slight steering wheel shake when decelerating in the 50-42 mph range. Does anyone else's truck do this? Anyone know if this is easily fixable? What could be the cause? Not sure if I really feel it while accelerating, but it's definitely there when decelerating.

 

By decelerating do you mean braking or just coasting? If while braking, then could be rotors, If just decelerating, then there have been reports of improperly shimmed rear-ends causing too much backlash or improper preload of the pinion.

Posted

 

By decelerating do you mean braking or just coasting? If while braking, then could be rotors, If just decelerating, then there have been reports of improperly shimmed rear-ends causing too much backlash or improper preload of the pinion.

I *think* it has been only while braking, but I'll try letting it coast during my lunch break and report.

Posted

i bought my truck 3 months ago, same issue dealer been changing tires every week, i just contact GM CORP. and they called the dealer and they are working to solve the problem. i've been told by one of the techs that the they have no idea how to fix it and recommend that i should ask for a new truck.

Posted

Everyone that has the vibration listen up. My 2014 Sierra was fixed by having the rear end rebuilt. It turned out that there are bad seals in the rear differential so they replaced it and the pinion and a gear. Running smooth now. Background: Steering wheel shook at 40-52 mph especially when coasting to a stop. They tried new tires and road force balancing but that did not work. One GM engineer even told my service manager that they could replace every part on the truck and it would still shake. Don't take that for an answer. Paying 40+K for a vehicle and having that shaking is not acceptable. BTW, mine did not start until 5K miles and got worse until about 15K. Now I hope it is fixed at 19K. Good luck and hope this helps.

  • Like 2
Posted

 

The B2B warranty is still in effect if it is less than 36K miles/36months, it is transferrable.

However, they may claim that the level/tires are responsible and make you revert it back to stock before they will look at the vibration issues.

 

Truck has well over 36K now. I will still take it to the dealer when i get a chance.

Posted (edited)

Everyone that has the vibration listen up. My 2014 Sierra was fixed by having the rear end rebuilt. It turned out that there are bad seals in the rear differential so they replaced it and the pinion and a gear. Running smooth now. Background: Steering wheel shook at 40-52 mph especially when coasting to a stop. They tried new tires and road force balancing but that did not work. One GM engineer even told my service manager that they could replace every part on the truck and it would still shake. Don't take that for an answer. Paying 40+K for a vehicle and having that shaking is not acceptable. BTW, mine did not start until 5K miles and got worse until about 15K. Now I hope it is fixed at 19K. Good luck and hope this helps.

Bad seals cause oil leaks, not vibration. Replacing those have nothing to do with your vibration problem. Maybe pinion shaft and its bearings and the ring gear. Quite possibly the preload on the pinion shaft bearings was not correct due to pinion shaft nut being loose.

Edited by pm26
  • Like 1
Posted

Bad seals cause oil leaks, not vibration. Replacing those have nothing to do with your vibration problem. Maybe pinion shaft and its bearings and the ring gear. Quite possibly the preload on the pinion shaft bearings was not correct due to pinion shaft nut being loose.

I didn't say the seals caused the vibration. I just stated what they did.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...