Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

 

I've never heard 15 lbs ever, thats half the industry standard

The Michelins that are now on my truck meet the 15 lb spec. My truck no longer vibrates. The tires were replaced under warranty. It has been mentioned numerous times in this thread, sometimes by me, that this is the spec for these trucks.

Posted

The Michelins that are now on my truck meet the 15 lb spec. My truck no longer vibrates. The tires were replaced under warranty. It has been mentioned numerous times in this thread, sometimes by me, that this is the spec for these trucks.

And that was my question, if GM specifies a specific tolerance that is in excess of industry standard to meet warranty - I believe that they have to supply the product free of charge....

Posted

And that was my question, if GM specifies a specific tolerance that is in excess of industry standard to meet warranty - I believe that they have to supply the product free of charge....

In my case warranty covered it all. The crap Bridgestone Duellers were sent back to manufacturer and Michelin Defenders were installed because they are a very good tire. I drive my truck every day 130 kph smooth as glass. I think in my case GM realized it was cheaper to buy good tires over buying back my truck.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

The Michelins that are now on my truck meet the 15 lb spec. My truck no longer vibrates. The tires were replaced under warranty. It has been mentioned numerous times in this thread, sometimes by me, that this is the spec for these trucks.

The Michelins did nothing for me except look nice. Still vibrates.

Posted

The Michelins did nothing for me except look nice. Still vibrates.

I also had it tuned, 2 new rear ends and a new drive shaft. so it was more than tires on mine. I'm just glad mine was finally fixed. It also has been said on this thread that there is more than one cause for this vibration problem.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I also had it tuned, 2 new rear ends and a new drive shaft. so it was more than tires on mine. I'm just glad mine was finally fixed. It also has been said on this thread that there is more than one cause for this vibration problem.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wish my dealership would talk to your dealership LOL

  • Like 1
Posted

Last post for me about 2014 Silverado. My nightmare is over. History, 3 different sets of tires and 1 set of new rims = vibration and shaking 95% gone however since that was fixed I've been thru erratic idling like miss firing intermittently, crunching in the front end when going over bumps, harsh slam shifts 2nd to third gear. Non of which the dealer has been able to fix. My truck has been in the shop at least 20 times and only 30,000 km's on the truck. I'm am done and traded it in on a 2016 Toyota Tacoma DBCSB. Never buying a Chevy, Ford or Dodge ever again. Losses are 2yrs of payments as I have to start over again. Oh well, good by Chevy go die at the Levy....Hello Taco....

post-126079-0-43979900-1465508129_thumb.jpg

post-126079-0-43979900-1465508129_thumb.jpg

post-126079-0-43979900-1465508129_thumb.jpg

post-126079-0-43979900-1465508129_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Last Night I bought a preowned GMC Sierra 1500 and today I noticed the rear left part of the truck vibrates. I was going to take it in to the dealer tomorrow. I have the remaining balance of the warranty transferred.

What should I tell the dealership tomorrow?

Posted (edited)

Last Night I bought a preowned GMC Sierra 1500 and today I noticed the rear left part of the truck vibrates. I was going to take it in to the dealer tomorrow. I have the remaining balance of the warranty transferred.

What should I tell the dealership tomorrow?

Take it back. Bitch about it. Hand them the keys. Live a happier life. Trust me. Bought mine the same way. Poop storm fighting to get it fixed as it is. Certified Pre-Owned should have a 3 day / 150 mile satisfaction guarantee. Dump that truck, get a new one or something different entirely. Edited by severado
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Last post for me about 2014 Silverado. My nightmare is over. History, 3 different sets of tires and 1 set of new rims = vibration and shaking 95% gone however since that was fixed I've been thru erratic idling like miss firing intermittently, crunching in the front end when going over bumps, harsh slam shifts 2nd to third gear. Non of which the dealer has been able to fix. My truck has been in the shop at least 20 times and only 30,000 km's on the truck. I'm am done and traded it in on a 2016 Toyota Tacoma DBCSB. Never buying a Chevy, Ford or Dodge ever again. Losses are 2yrs of payments as I have to start over again. Oh well, good by Chevy go die at the Levy....Hello Taco....

 

Hello Taco? You mean, hello Pearl Harbor!

Sayonara- English translation = C-ya!

japan-risingsun-superknit.jpg

Edited by steelcity
Posted

Toyota may be owned by the Japs but a large portion of our trucks are assembled in Mexico. Remember the Alamo? Vehicles are global and have been for years. GM and Ford are building factories in China and India. If they were such great American companies then they would assemble all vehicles here in the US and employee more Americans but they don't. I'm all for supporting American manufacturers but on the flip side they should do their part to support American workers. How can foreign owned companies assemble some of their vehicles here and employee American workers which in turn spend their paychecks in their community businesses which in turn spend that money etc. while American owned companies choose to assemble their trucks in other companies and send them back here to be sold?

Posted

Toyota may be owned by the Japs but a large portion of our trucks are assembled in Mexico. Remember the Alamo? Vehicles are global and have been for years. GM and Ford are building factories in China and India. If they were such great American companies then they would assemble all vehicles here in the US and employee more Americans but they don't. I'm all for supporting American manufacturers but on the flip side they should do their part to support American workers. How can foreign owned companies assemble some of their vehicles here and employee American workers which in turn spend their paychecks in their community businesses which in turn spend that money etc. while American owned companies choose to assemble their trucks in other companies and send them back here to be sold?

The Tacoma has more US/Canadian content than the Silverado/Sierra. 60% vs 45%, respectively.

 

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-10-most-american-trucks-for-2015.html

 

Buying American isn't what it used to be.

Posted

First post here. Long story short, I've been following this thread for about 6 months, as I've got a shaker. Dealer does the usual, tires tires tires. Today I removed the rear drive shaft, put a bag over the transfer case output to catch most of the fluid that I knew it would sling, drove a couple of miles at the worst speeds for my vibration (45 and 65), and observed the vibration to be completely absent with the rear drive shaft removed.

 

I just finished refilling my transfer case, and am now thinking about where to go next with what I'm telling the dealer. I'm thinking it might be related to pinion angle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...