Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I towed a 7k # pintle hook HD double axle construction trailer about 80 miles on the hwy and after that my truck rode smooth as glass. I drove it up to about 83 on the hwy a few days after the trailer run pull and it's smoother than ever. That Pintle Trailer probably put some wear on my truck. Banging when taking off and stopping like crazy. See if the 77+ slight vibration comes back or not. I'm back to my original theory. Stiff frames. Maybe cab mounts being my vibration got worse when it was hot, maybe the hydraulic fluid in the mounts thins out and becomes less effective at isolating the vibrations. I know my vibration is temperature/sun related. The hot afternoons have always been worse than driving at 5am in the dark. I've always said GM needs a test facility in Miami, FL. All the test facilities are up north and all i see are videos of manufactures running vehicles at the polar ice caps. So much for the FL consumer. Regardless, mine is not that bad compare to most. And I love my GY SRA's by the way. Way too much SRA bashing going on around here. I have 47k on them and 7-8/32" left on them. Not to mention I'm a heavy civil contractor and my truck has seen more off-road and actual work than most mall crawlers will ever see. Very quiet tires. When these burn up I'm doing GY Adventure Wrangler AT's.

 

 

This is probably the reason the Tundra rides smoother on the hwy than the K2XX. I'm 99.99% sure our K2XX's have a fully boxed frame from nose to tail. Toyota's guys flat out said the reason they use a C in the rear is for flex and comfort. Let me break this down for us. K2XX rides like a truck and the Tundra doesn't. That's what GM should just come out and say. Toyota is owning their C channel car frame. Toyota's twerk for comfort.... K2XX has no twerk skills whatsoever.

 

 

 

 

Edited by FL335i
Posted

I towed a 7k # pintle hook HD double axle construction trailer about 80 miles on the hwy and after that my truck rode smooth as glass. I drove it up to about 83 on the hwy a few days after the trailer run pull and it's smoother than ever. That Pintle Trailer probably put some wear on my truck. Banging when taking off and stopping like crazy. See if the 77+ slight vibration comes back or not. I'm back to my original theory. Stiff frames. Maybe cab mounts being my vibration got worse when it was hot, maybe the hydraulic fluid in the mounts thins out and becomes less effective at isolating the vibrations. I know my vibration is temperature/sun related. The hot afternoons have always been worse than driving at 5am in the dark. I've always said GM needs a test facility in Miami, FL. All the test facilities are up north and all i see are videos of manufactures running vehicles at the polar ice caps. So much for the FL consumer. Regardless, mine is not that bad compare to most. And I love my GY SRA's by the way. Way too much SRA bashing going on around here. I have 47k on them and 7-8/32" left on them. Not to mention I'm a heavy civil contractor and my truck has seen more off-road and actual work than most mall crawlers will ever see. Very quiet tires. When these burn up I'm doing GY Adventure Wrangler AT's.

 

 

This is probably the reason the Tundra rides smoother on the hwy than the K2XX. I'm 99.99% sure our K2XX's have a fully boxed frame from nose to tail. Toyota's guys flat out said the reason they use a C in the rear is for flex and comfort. Let me break this down for us. K2XX rides like a truck and the Tundra doesn't. That's what GM should just come out and say. Toyota is owning their C channel car frame. Toyota's twerk for comfort.... K2XX has no twerk skills whatsoever.

 

 

 

 

Your definitely right about the temperatures affecting the ride.

Hot sunny days brings out the worst in my ride.

 

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Posted

Mine is the smoothest when it's hot outside. Took a long trip last Tuesday and it was very smooth and enjoyable. Temps obviously affect these trucks, just not all in the same manner.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

^So it has to be a material expansion/contraction issue of a metallic component or a rubber part that is changing it's durometer hardness reading. Maybe the leaf spring bushings are allowing the pinion angle to change in the hot weather.... WTFK.

Edited by FL335i
Posted

^So it has to be a material expansion/contraction issue of a metallic component or a rubber part that is changing it's durometer hardness reading. Maybe the leaf spring bushings are allowing the pinion angle to change in the hot weather.... WTFK.

 

That's just it, who knows for sure? There are so many variations of the vibration issue. It still comes back to the trucks being very sensitive to anything that causes vibration. The puzzling part is (contrary to some people's belief) there are trucks that don't, and haven't vibrated at all. What's different about those trucks?

Posted

^So it has to be a material expansion/contraction issue of a metallic component or a rubber part that is changing it's durometer hardness reading. Maybe the leaf spring bushings are allowing the pinion angle to change in the hot weather.... WTFK.

I posted a picture some pages back showing my upper control arm bushings being cracked and split. Maybe the makeup of the rubber used is to hard or soft?post-129871-146513851963_thumb.png

Pictures not to good. But if you expand it you can see the cracks better.

 

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

post-129871-146513851963_thumb.png

post-129871-146513851963_thumb.png

post-129871-146513851963_thumb.png

Posted

Mine is the smoothest when it's hot outside. Took a long trip last Tuesday and it was very smooth and enjoyable. Temps obviously affect these trucks, just not all in the same manner.

 

 

Mine is actually smoother in the winter (Maine) as soon as it gets above 50°F truck goes to hell.

Posted (edited)

When you confronted them after they said it was fixed with the tire replacement, what did they say? I would have gotten that in writing and then afterward how it was not to use it against them for lying.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

They said they felt it to and to just keep the rental truck (2016 silverado shaker) till they call me saying its fixed. Also something i found very interesting is the main Manager said CHEVY sent him to a shaking class last week 0_o. maybe they are starting to take this problem seriously

Edited by KJ89
Posted

Someone tried fox and they say it really helped theirs, but stil shook a little

 

I agree 10x is too many. It's not the tires. how many miles are on the truck, and when did you first complain of the shaking?

 

I agree

currently 19500 miles. 1st took it in for a Tire balance because of shaking around 2500 miles. I didnt know about the Chevy shake till about 10-12k miles

Posted

I can just imagine what they have about me on file LOL. I am picking up my truck tomorrow after a week and a half. New tires for me. Basically that will mask the vibration some until the tires wear down again...When I can financially get rid of this truck without a huge loss...she's gone.

Can I ask how many miles you have on it when they replaced the tires.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

The front two were replaced at 19,000 KM's and then all 4 with a new brand at 32,000 kms. This was all my dealership. They go out of there way. GM basically puts it all on them.

Posted (edited)

Just hit 12k miles on my truck (owned it 1 year and 9 months) and joined this forum because of the vibes mine had at 72mph. I don't drive the interstate much but I took last week off work and was on the interstate quite a bit. My truck has gotten much better but still has slight vibes that vary based on temps. I still feel a slight vibe in the steering wheel but my water bottle no longer shakes but the water inside shows some of the vibes but no worse than my Jeep GC. The only difference with the Jeep is that I feel no vibes in the steering wheel even though the water in the bottle has the same slight vibrations. I varied my speed quite a bit and though I don't condone it I got the truck up to 90mph a couple of times and it rode just fine. Maybe my truck is settling in or maybe my next trip down the interstate it will start shaking the bottle again, who knows but for now I am pleased.

Edited by tnchevy
Posted

Just hit 12k miles on my truck (owned it 1 year and 9 months) and joined this forum because of the vibes mine had at 72mph. I don't drive the interstate much but I took last week off work and was on the interstate quite a bit. My truck has gotten much better but still has slight vibes that vary based on temps. I still feel a slight vibe in the steering wheel but my water bottle no longer shakes but the water inside shows some of the vibes but no worse than my Jeep GC. The only difference with the Jeep is that I feel no vibes in the steering wheel even though the water in the bottle has the same slight vibrations. I varied my speed quite a bit and though I don't condone it I got the truck up to 90mph a couple of times and it rode just fine. Maybe my truck is settling in or maybe my next trip down the interstate it will start shaking the bottle again, who knows but for now I am pleased.

I will be honest, there are days it feels great and then days it vibrates. Some days I want to drive it off a cliff it is so bad.

 

Case in point, last week was not so bad. Saturday I sacked out the bed with a scoop of topsoil. Drive into work this morning and it rides like sheite again

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So I was getting in my truck yesterday, and something caught my eye in the front driver rim. I check it out and look how much weight they put on it,I've never seen this much, its insane. They f*cking doubled it up on the same spot.

post-145883-0-01389200-1465230368_thumb.png

post-145883-0-01389200-1465230368_thumb.png

post-145883-0-01389200-1465230368_thumb.png

post-145883-0-01389200-1465230368_thumb.png

Edited by Jesse D
  • Like 2
Posted

So I was getting in my truck yesterday, and something caught my eye in the front driver rim. I check it out and look how much weight they put on it,I've never seen this much, its insane. They f*cking doubled it up on the same spot.

attachicon.gifinsane weight on driver front tire.png

Ha wow. I worked in a tire shop through college and I never saw that much ever. That's incompetence at the highest level. Doesn't matter what the machine says that's never right.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...