Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

My 2014 Z71 4X4 has a noticeable vibration when braking at highway speeds. However, it doesn't seem to affect the braking performance. Also, it does not pulse as would be felt when rotar is warped. There is no vibration when braking at normal in town driving speeds. Braking is smooth and normal. Truck has 51K miles.

 

Any ideas?

Have the alignment checked first.

Edited by Severado
Posted

You buy this BS?

From what I understand the road force units cause more issues than they cure...they are complicated, require a specialized "tech", and need frequent calibration and repair.

 

I have had extremely bad luck with the road force balancers, I would NOT go looking for that service and would probably go somewhere else if it was offered to me.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

My 2014 Z71 4X4 has a noticeable vibration when braking at highway speeds. However, it doesn't seem to affect the braking performance. Also, it does not pulse as would be felt when rotar is warped. There is no vibration when braking at normal in town driving speeds. Braking is smooth and normal. Truck has 51K miles.

 

Any ideas?

Replace the rotors...mine does the same thing, it's rotors.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

We just got a new Hunter 9700 this year. $13k. They make more expensive ones but not $66k. No auto tech anywhere is paid $115/hour. Submitting every new vehicle to GM for a road force balance would surely set off an audit.

  • Like 1
Posted

My 2014 Z71 4X4 has a noticeable vibration when braking at highway speeds. However, it doesn't seem to affect the braking performance. Also, it does not pulse as would be felt when rotar is warped. There is no vibration when braking at normal in town driving speeds. Braking is smooth and normal. Truck has 51K miles.

 

Any ideas?

Pulsation during aggressive or heavy braking is a sign of warped rotors. Additionally, having 51k miles on them also confirms this.

Posted

2 different sets of rims....3 different sets of tires....

The aftermarket 18s are a bit bigger than stock and raised vibe speed slightly.

Besides that the vibe is still there....

Posted (edited)

I'm going to throw my name in this as well. 2015 GMC DC 6.2L All-Terrain. Had a slight vibration with the 18s. But not very noticeable. Put knock off CK160 with Hankook 305/45/22. 2 rebalances and 1 load force balance and no change. All three times they said they were not balanced. Vibration starts 65mph and vibration increases as the MPH goes up. Going to put 18s back on and take it to dealer. Not expecting an help from them.

Edited by Salernophotog
Posted

I believe the problem is with the axle studs. Lift your truck in the air (jackstands and all) and watch your rear wheels very carefully. I don't believe the axle studs are in proper alignment. It's almost as if they are drilled just a couple mm off center and that is why the entire rear axle replacement usually solves the vibration issue. If wheels are true, and tires are balanced the axle studs have to be off center to cause vibrations. (My truck was ultimately bought back under FL Lemon Law, but I did lift the rear and my wheels looked like they were out of round when they were spinning. Verified by local tire shop and dealer wheels were true and minimal road force balance.)

Posted

I believe the problem is with the axle studs. Lift your truck in the air (jackstands and all) and watch your rear wheels very carefully. I don't believe the axle studs are in proper alignment. It's almost as if they are drilled just a couple mm off center and that is why the entire rear axle replacement usually solves the vibration issue. If wheels are true, and tires are balanced the axle studs have to be off center to cause vibrations. (My truck was ultimately bought back under FL Lemon Law, but I did lift the rear and my wheels looked like they were out of round when they were spinning. Verified by local tire shop and dealer wheels were true and minimal road force balance.)

Wouldn't OE wheels be hub centered, not stud centered?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

No clue. All I know is that my wheels looked like they had a "hop" to them while spinning but were verified to be true and well within RF specs.

 

Wouldn't OE wheels be hub centered, not stud centered?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

I put my 18s back on and there is still a slight vibration. Not as pronounced as when I had my 22s on it. I stopped in at the dealer and made an appointment for next Thursday. First question he asked if my wheels and tires were factory. I know I will be never win this battle. They have take off 22s sitting in the showroom I ask for him to take test drives with all three sets to make sure it vibrates with all of them. I might have burn a vacation day and babysit to make sure this gets done the way I ask.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I put my 18s back on and there is still a slight vibration. Not as pronounced as when I had my 22s on it. I stopped in at the dealer and made an appointment for next Thursday. First question he asked if my wheels and tires were factory. I know I will be never win this battle. They have take off 22s sitting in the showroom I ask for him to take test drives with all three sets to make sure it vibrates with all of them. I might have burn a vacation day and babysit to make sure this gets done the way I ask.

correct, it makes no difference. I have 22's and 18's, both factory... both vibrate

Edited by Jesse D
Posted

Straight from Techlink, read the bold http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=6253 V8 Engine Surge Sensation during Highway Driving

postdateicon.pngMay 24, 2016

A surge or misfire sensation during steady-state highway driving may be felt on some 2014-2016 Corvette and 2016 Camaro and CTS-V models (Fig. 11) equipped with the 6.2L V8 engine (RPOs LT1, LT4) and the 8-speed automatic transmission (RPO MU5). The sensation may be noticed most often in 6th, 7th, or 8th gear, in manual or automatic mode, with an engine speed between 1,000 and 2,500 rpm under load. The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) will be engaged and there will not be any misfire data or P0300 (Engine Misfire) DTCs set.

TCC slip with this condition present may show on a scan tool of +/- 6–0 rpm. This occurs at about 30–60% throttle. This sensation, or chuggle, with the TCC locked is a normal condition.

 

Full-size trucks equipped with the Gen 5 V8 engine (RPOs L83, L86) may not exhibit this condition because they usually have 15-50 rpm of TCC slip speeds, which absorbs any engine chuggle sensation.

 

The normal operation of engines and transmissions generate various vibrations and the engine and transmission mounts are designed to isolate these vibrations from the rest of the vehicle. While the mounts do a great job of isolating most vibrations, there still may be certain engine loads and rpms that generate vibrations that drivers may feel in the vehicle. Changes in engine load or rpm will change the vibrations produced, making it more or less apparent to occupants in the vehicle.

 

When issues of this nature are encountered, like equipped vehicles should be compared and, if consistent results are identified, should be considered a normal characteristic of vehicle operation.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I have a slight vibration on a 2016 crew Z71 with 2500 miles on it. I feel the slight vibration in seat, steering wheel, and gas pedal. Also it rides pretty dang rough, feels like a 3/4 ton. Has 20" tires on it. It is in shop trying to figure it out.

Edited by JWMan
Posted

Straight from Techlink, read the bold

 

http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=6253

 

 

 

V8 Engine Surge Sensation during Highway Driving

postdateicon.pngMay 24, 2016

 

A surge or misfire sensation during steady-state highway driving may be felt on some 2014-2016 Corvette and 2016 Camaro and CTS-V models (Fig. 11) equipped with the 6.2L V8 engine (RPOs LT1, LT4) and the 8-speed automatic transmission (RPO MU5). The sensation may be noticed most often in 6th, 7th, or 8th gear, in manual or automatic mode, with an engine speed between 1,000 and 2,500 rpm under load. The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) will be engaged and there will not be any misfire data or P0300 (Engine Misfire) DTCs set.

TCC slip with this condition present may show on a scan tool of +/- 6–0 rpm. This occurs at about 30–60% throttle. This sensation, or chuggle, with the TCC locked is a normal condition.

 

Full-size trucks equipped with the Gen 5 V8 engine (RPOs L83, L86) may not exhibit this condition because they usually have 15-50 rpm of TCC slip speeds, which absorbs any engine chuggle sensation.

 

The normal operation of engines and transmissions generate various vibrations and the engine and transmission mounts are designed to isolate these vibrations from the rest of the vehicle. While the mounts do a great job of isolating most vibrations, there still may be certain engine loads and rpms that generate vibrations that drivers may feel in the vehicle. Changes in engine load or rpm will change the vibrations produced, making it more or less apparent to occupants in the vehicle.

 

When issues of this nature are encountered, like equipped vehicles should be compared and, if consistent results are identified, should be considered a normal characteristic of vehicle operation.

 

This is pretty much what mine does but mostly between 1000 and 1500 rpm under load. I just put it a tank of premium in and noticed most but not all of it went away. Feels like it is missing or hesitating.
Posted

This is pretty much what mine does but mostly between 1000 and 1500 rpm under load. I just put it a tank of premium in and noticed most but not all of it went away. Feels like it is missing or hesitating.

Notice that it was for Camaros and vettes,

 

The highlighted portion is interesting on vibration isolation.

 

I have a 2016 Chrysler mini van that I was positive had some vibes was told that normal with the V6 and they have done extensive work to isolate engine harmonics but some still get thru

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...