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Posted

Congrats on the new Tundra DALaws, and i'd agree with your review. I have the premium sound system but it is still under powered. Sounds nice just not extremely loud. But I hear the amp is an easy swap. The dealer I bought mine from installs aftermarket remote starts I get over 3/4 of a mile range. Not as good as an app but it has served me well.

Posted (edited)

Hey Jesse, here's the truck for you. No engine vibration, tranny, drive shaft, differental problems. Smooth as a gravy sandwich :)

 

http://www.trucktrend.com/future-trucks/1608-model-u-the-tesla-pickup-truck/

:sigh: if only... however, Tesla has had issues with their battery packs arbitrarily catching fire. Sorry, had to do it... I do like Tesla, however I couldn't be able to afford one anyway. if only the world didn't revolve around this thing called money haha

 

 

It's a never ending train of disappointment. Why they won't look at something else other than tires is beyond me. Just won't stay balanced for more than a week or two. Then I go back, find out another tire is bad or out of balance. It's obvious that something else is wrong. Still has the shake 'n wobble even on smooth roads. Feels like I'm riding over invisible humps, the vibes surge and the ride jolts you over every imperfection in the road.Last 2 times they kept my truck for 7 and 8 days. No real progress after 5 visits for the same thing. On top of that my favorite service adviser left abruptly.

He was probably sick of dealing with people complaining about Vibration :rolleyes:

 

This is my first response to this issue as I have had nothing constructive to add until now. Have read every page so far. My 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4 crew which I bought new Jan. 2015 had no issues when I bought it. Intermittent vibration started after 600 miles. Not bad just annoying. Took it to dealer they found nothing. Drove another 1000 miles or so got worse. Took it back they had it for 3 weeks. Checked every thing again used pico monitor. After 3 weeks all they did was put on one tire. Must admit it was better but it was still intermittent and annoying. Service manager said everything was within GM specs. I don't use it that much except for mostly local running so I put up with it. It was worse at speeds over 65. Fast forward to today was in my local Costco and was talking to tire shop manager. Told him the story. He suggested letting them check balance as they have the latest equipment that mounts wheel on balancer using lug holes instead of wheel center. Balance was off so they corrected it and so far it is night and day better. Just my 2 cents. So far so good.

interesting

 

Halifax MA, anywhere from 500 to 800 cars every Friday night.

 

One of my old cars

 

DSC_2454-L.jpg

 

 

Sorry for the hijack

Hanover does one too, atleast they used to. they met at the Building 19/ the New Tractor Supply Company :angel:

 

I bought a Tundra as well. Runs and drives great. I feel bad for the poor bastard who buys it. I hope they check the CarFax first. It does show all the times it has been back to dealer. Some have yet been updated on CarFax. You can find the Shakerado on the Beck and Masten (south) web page. Has about. 8,200 miles of hell on it.

 

Review of Tundra:

 

Pro: lots of power, a bit throaty. Ride is stiff as would be expected in a truck, but no shake at any speed. Very smooth. Get a sense of being well made. Everything is solid. Rear seats in CC are huge, and still have more than enough space in drivers seat. Seats are more comfortable than my old vibrator.

 

Cons: poor MPG . Averaging 16 while vibrator was 21. Base sound system is weak. But, it has good reception. Wish it had the App where you can turn on remotely.

 

All in all I love it. Looked at Ram, Ford and even Nissan. Tundra just best over all IMO.

you could get a Viper Smart Start.... I'm not sure how they are now, but I know when they first came out they had some issues with their program not working properly. 16MPG isn't all that bad, I', only getting about 17.5 in my Shaker

Edited by Jesse D
Posted

So I have this vibration and have felt with a lot of the stuff you guys have said. But I went under and was looking around and pushed up on the drivers side axle shaft that comes out of the diff. And it moved up and down /side to side about 1/8. From my understanding there is a needle bearing there and should not be doing that. What do you guys think?

Pushing on this axle moves it a lot.

f62f86b54300b2d19459ebfd746014d0.png

 

This is the needle bearing location right behind the axle flange. 6c2d7f605d76a0b33ca1d06461ff9169.png

 

 

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Posted

Very interesting.. thanks for the pics.. interested in what others have to say.

Posted

So I have this vibration and have felt with a lot of the stuff you guys have said. But I went under and was looking around and pushed up on the drivers side axle shaft that comes out of the diff. And it moved up and down /side to side about 1/8. From my understanding there is a needle bearing there and should not be doing that. What do you guys think?

Pushing on this axle moves it a lot.

f62f86b54300b2d19459ebfd746014d0.png

 

This is the needle bearing location right behind the axle flange. 6c2d7f605d76a0b33ca1d06461ff9169.png

 

 

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Do you have movement on the axle flange itself or are you getting movement in the rzeppa and tripod joint of the axle assembly? The inboard joint where the flange is located is the tripod plunge joint, its job is to compensate for the axle changing length as the suspension cycles. When the suspension compresses the axle needs to be shorter and the tripod joint slides in to accomplish this. The outboard joint is a 6 ball rzeppa joint. Both of these joints will have some play in them to allow the axle movement in multiple axis' during normal operation.

Posted

Do you have movement on the axle flange itself or are you getting movement in the rzeppa and tripod joint of the axle assembly? The inboard joint where the flange is located is the tripod plunge joint, its job is to compensate for the axle changing length as the suspension cycles. When the suspension compresses the axle needs to be shorter and the tripod joint slides in to accomplish this. The outboard joint is a 6 ball rzeppa joint. Both of these joints will have some play in them to allow the axle movement in multiple axis' during normal operation.

I know that joint is supposed to have movement. But it's just the stub axle I'm talking about. I can get it to move up and down in the case. Like that bearing isn't there. Like it's just flopping around.

 

 

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Posted

This is my first response to this issue as I have had nothing constructive to add until now. Have read every page so far. My 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4 crew which I bought new Jan. 2015 had no issues when I bought it. Intermittent vibration started after 600 miles. Not bad just annoying. Took it to dealer they found nothing. Drove another 1000 miles or so got worse. Took it back they had it for 3 weeks. Checked every thing again used pico monitor. After 3 weeks all they did was put on one tire. Must admit it was better but it was still intermittent and annoying. Service manager said everything was within GM specs. I don't use it that much except for mostly local running so I put up with it. It was worse at speeds over 65. Fast forward to today was in my local Costco and was talking to tire shop manager. Told him the story. He suggested letting them check balance as they have the latest equipment that mounts wheel on balancer using lug holes instead of wheel center. Balance was off so they corrected it and so far it is night and day better. Just my 2 cents. So far so good.

Anyone care to offer anymore updates on this?

Posted

I know that joint is supposed to have movement. But it's just the stub axle I'm talking about. I can get it to move up and down in the case. Like that bearing isn't there. Like it's just flopping around.

 

 

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Yeah that shouldn't move 1/8", sounds like the bearing is bad any signs of fluid leakage or is the shaft seal doing its job at least?

Posted

Anyone care to offer anymore updates on this?

That factory wheels are hub centric with very little clearance between the pilot and the rim, It sounds like they were not properly balanced before someone could have incorrectly mounted them with the wrong cone and the wheel wasn't properly centered when it got balanced mounting on the lugs may have centered it up properly to correct the balance problem this would be more of a technician error. Aftermarket wheels are lug centric so this method would be better for balancing them.

Posted

Yeah that shouldn't move 1/8", sounds like the bearing is bad any signs of fluid leakage or is the shaft seal doing its job at least?

No leaks at all. I'm a truck driver and away from my truck. When I go to head home I'm going to replace the bearing and hope the vibration goes away.

 

 

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Posted

 

I'm adding Costco to my strategy then.

Here's my current situation: My 2014 Sierra obviously has a badly balanced wheel because it will shake depending on where tires are rotated to. With 22k on the odo and 18 months into my bumper to bumper warranty, my chrome wheels are blistering and the chrome is flaking off. Gm is replacing them under

warranty and when I get it back if it shakes again I'll try Costco. But first, I'm going right from the dealer to a freeway to see if it's happening again. If it does I'll take it right back.

I went to Costco with 100 miles on factory rims tire switch to 22's and they have great service very professional and super cheap.

Mount tires,balanced,mounted on truck 15.00 each with nitrogen fill.You will have to go back for re torque.My tire tps came on next day but they reprogram them no problems.I didn't have shake with 18" was wondering with the 22" the shake was going to appear but goo so far.

Did 2 tires on 24" somewhere else 100.00.

 

 

 

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Posted

Sorry if this has been covered in this 600 page thread, but I have a few questions. I have started to notice vibrations at speeds of 65-75 mph. I have a 2015 crew cab with about 6800 miles.

 

1- If I take this in to have the dealership start the process of identifying the problem, I assume that this is at zero cost to me, right?

 

2- One reason I ask #1 is because I do have a 2.5" RC level with 33" tires and aftermarket wheels. The preliminary service bulletin I have read mentions that the dealership must remove a leveling kit if there is one. So, if they do this, do they put it back on after diagnosis? Do they refuse to put it back on? Will they charge me for all of this diagnosis based on my having the leveling kit?

 

Seems like a definite warranty issue, but given the leveling kit has to be removed, seems like the dealer might try to stick me with a bill.

 

Thoughts?

Posted

 

I'm adding Costco to my strategy then.

Here's my current situation: My 2014 Sierra obviously has a badly balanced wheel because it will shake depending on where tires are rotated to. With 22k on the odo and 18 months into my bumper to bumper warranty, my chrome wheels are blistering and the chrome is flaking off. Gm is replacing them under

warranty and when I get it back if it shakes again I'll try Costco. But first, I'm going right from the dealer to a freeway to see if it's happening again. If it does I'll take it right back.

Had the rims replaced on my vehicle yesterday. Took one short drive on the freeway, vehicle vibrates when driving in the 73-76 mph range. But the vehicle tracking is stable. No more vehicle shaking to the point it feels scary to drive. I don't think its going to get better than what I have now. I've decided to wait and see as some posters here mention that as the tires settle on the rims ride characteristics can change.

Posted

Sorry if this has been covered in this 600 page thread, but I have a few questions. I have started to notice vibrations at speeds of 65-75 mph. I have a 2015 crew cab with about 6800 miles.

 

1- If I take this in to have the dealership start the process of identifying the problem, I assume that this is at zero cost to me, right?

 

2- One reason I ask #1 is because I do have a 2.5" RC level with 33" tires and aftermarket wheels. The preliminary service bulletin I have read mentions that the dealership must remove a leveling kit if there is one. So, if they do this, do they put it back on after diagnosis? Do they refuse to put it back on? Will they charge me for all of this diagnosis based on my having the leveling kit?

 

Seems like a definite warranty issue, but given the leveling kit has to be removed, seems like the dealer might try to stick me with a bill.

 

Thoughts?

Most dealerships will not help you with your problems with the leveling kit on it. It is on your dime to remove the leveling kit. You will also probably have to put the factory rims and tires back on. It has been covered in this thread multiple times that the leveling kit and bigger tires/ different rims are not the cause but it is what it is. You are asking GM to fix a problem to a vehicle that has had the oem parts replaced and/or modified and they have every right to not work on it till the truck is back to how it was when it left the factory.

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