Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

C6Bill Enthusiast

C6Bill

Posted
Posted

Sad part is you are probably right, i just don't know if my Toyota dealer cares or not as i've only had to go there for an oil change.

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

Sad part is you are probably right, i just don't know if my Toyota dealer cares or not as i've only had to go there for an oil change.

If you fellows expect truck manufacturers (any producers of a product or service for that matter) to care about you in the same way that you care about perhaps a family member or close friend then you're being naive and don't understand how free enterprise works. Using our favorite topic, the Silverado; if these various issues listed in these 623 pages are as prevalent in the customer product pool as some on this forum contend then we will see a decline in GM sales, market share and eventually profit. These factors are what motivates GM, Ford, Ram, Toyota to correct problems and take action to build quality products. I'm too lazy to research empirical data on this but based upon what I've read Ford, GM, Ram sales remains fairly constant relative to each other. And, Toyota has been sitting on about the same market share relative to the big three as well. So, one has to wonder if Toyota builds such a superior product why isn't this reflected in their sales? Just a little Econ 101 question :)

  • Like 2
The Zip Senior Enthusiast

The Zip

Posted
Posted

...based upon what I've read Ford, GM, Ram sales remains fairly constant relative to each other. And, Toyota has been sitting on about the same market share relative to the big three as well. So, one has to wonder if Toyota builds such a superior product why isn't this reflected in their sales?

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

  • Like 1
LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

I hear the new Nissan is nice

 

 

 

lol

The overweight pig? Lol, those trucks are hideous

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

Agree. And, truck people are some of the most brand loyal folks on the planet for sure. A fact, not advertised enough apparently, is that Toyota Tundra has the most domestic content of the bunch. But, I think even the most ardent and loyal person will eventually dump a brand if it's perceived to be problem ridden. Example; I started driving Fords in the early 80's because I liked their extended cab and at that time GM only built a standard cab. Then, after about three iterations of Fords I went back to Chevy because of constant front-end alignment problems with Fords much vaunted Twin I-Beam front suspension system. As a last ditch attempt to correct a known problem Ford eventually came up with eccentric king pin bushings so that front wheels could be adjusted for camber and caster but it was too late for me. Consequently, Ford lost me for good. And, I have bought a bunch Chevy trucks and Suburbans since then, lost sales to Ford, lol !

mgoodling44 Enthusiast

mgoodling44

Posted
Posted

Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

C6Bill Enthusiast

C6Bill

Posted
Posted

Some have had their issues resolved with new ring and pinion and some with new rims and tires but no real cure all that any of us have heard of. But go back 4 or 5 pages, there are links to a couple videos about isolating the e-brake cable. Couldn't hurt to try.

novapwr Enthusiast

novapwr

Posted
Posted

I am looking at buying a 2016 Sierra and this has me worried. I can get a really nice SLT for much less than a comparable Ford right now because of July 4th sale. Does everyone have this damn issue? Should I just stick with Ford's? Maybe and Ecodiesel from Ram? I had problems with my 2010 F150, now having problems with my F250.............Toyota?

 

Anyways, not to rant, but seriously, how wide spread is the vibration issue? Is there even a correct answer? I know I read the report of SUV's making people car sick. Related?

I bought a new 2016 Silverado Z71 couple days before the 4th of July. Next evening left for Hilton head Island from central pa. Never heard of the vibration issues and luckily have none yet. Had it up to the mid 90's on a couple stretches just running with traffic, smooth as silk. Nearly 5k miles now. Still smooth as silk today. I must admit I am a bit worried now and also feel for those of you who are experiencing this issue . I would be very upset if I had any of these vibration issues. I love this truck and can't imagine having all these problems. I pro-toured my early 70's Nova and had fits getting the driveline angles spot on to eliminate vibrations. I did not read all 623 pages but enough to know there seems to be no cure all. I will continue to follow this thread to learn what I can. Lots of good stuff here in this Silverado forum.

Dnt Senior Enthusiast

Dnt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

Matt I agree with you to read the entire thread is a waste of life LOL. I owned a 2014 CC Z71 with 5.3 6 spd for 2.5 yrs and over 60k miles. I tossed the factory GY SRA's at less than 20k and bought the best 20" michelins I could find. Eliminated 90% of my vibration issues. My 2016 Denali is riding fairly smooth so far (less than 2k miles) on the factory GY SRA's but if they start acting up when they get some wear on them I will burn those succas and get some 20" Michelins again. My personal theory on all this is that the majority of the problem is with all these oversize wheels and tires nowadays it is almost impossible to properly balance especially with low quality tires.

 

You had mentioned your torque converter and I saw a thread about a torque converter replacement being the FIX on a 8 spd trans not sure if that would help on a 6 spd. here is the link http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/187450-who-likes-their-8-speed/ I thought that it was interesting that his dealership ran a torque converter slippage test and his had to be replaced and that FIXED his truck so there may actually be something to your torque converter theory.

Edited by MyFavTruck
tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

But what most don't seem to get is that there is only two "American" truck companies (Dodge is owned by Fiat), and those two companies like to employ Mexicans instead of Americans to build a large portion of their products while their Japanese competitors employ a lot of Americans workers to build their vehicles. I stopped caring about if a vehicle is "American" or not years ago because there is no such thing anymore.

  • Like 2
Silverado 6.2 Enthusiast

Silverado 6.2

Posted
Posted

Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

It could be your drive line angle is changing to far out of spec on decel, the engine is acting as an engine brake in return twisting the pinion down, that may explain why it goes away in neutral because then the engine isnt trying to slow down the pinion speed and keeping it more in line.

Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

Agree. And, truck people are some of the most brand loyal folks on the planet for sure. A fact, not advertised enough apparently, is that Toyota Tundra has the most domestic content of the bunch. But, I think even the most ardent and loyal person will eventually dump a brand if it's perceived to be problem ridden. Example; I started driving Fords in the early 80's because I liked their extended cab and at that time GM only built a standard cab. Then, after about three iterations of Fords I went back to Chevy because of constant front-end alignment problems with Fords much vaunted Twin I-Beam front suspension system. As a last ditch attempt to correct a known problem Ford eventually came up with eccentric king pin bushings so that front wheels could be adjusted for camber and caster but it was too late for me. Consequently, Ford lost me for good. And, I have bought a bunch Chevy trucks and Suburbans since then, lost sales to Ford, lol !

Check out this article from USA TODAY:

GM posts strong second quarter, jolting stock

 

http://usat.ly/29X4m41

mgoodling44 Enthusiast

mgoodling44

Posted
Posted

Well, I'm going to go with the Michelins. Anyone have a recommendation? Might was well "go big or go home" right? Give me the top two Michelin tires.

I'm looking at the LTX's. Defender? A/T 2's?

Thoughts?

Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well, I'm going to go with the Michelins. Anyone have a recommendation? Might was well "go big or go home" right? Give me the top two Michelin tires.

I'm looking at the LTX's. Defender? A/T 2's?

Thoughts?

Defender or AT2

personally I'd go AT2

Edited by Jesse D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...