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Sad part is you are probably right, i just don't know if my Toyota dealer cares or not as i've only had to go there for an oil change.

If you fellows expect truck manufacturers (any producers of a product or service for that matter) to care about you in the same way that you care about perhaps a family member or close friend then you're being naive and don't understand how free enterprise works. Using our favorite topic, the Silverado; if these various issues listed in these 623 pages are as prevalent in the customer product pool as some on this forum contend then we will see a decline in GM sales, market share and eventually profit. These factors are what motivates GM, Ford, Ram, Toyota to correct problems and take action to build quality products. I'm too lazy to research empirical data on this but based upon what I've read Ford, GM, Ram sales remains fairly constant relative to each other. And, Toyota has been sitting on about the same market share relative to the big three as well. So, one has to wonder if Toyota builds such a superior product why isn't this reflected in their sales? Just a little Econ 101 question :)

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...based upon what I've read Ford, GM, Ram sales remains fairly constant relative to each other. And, Toyota has been sitting on about the same market share relative to the big three as well. So, one has to wonder if Toyota builds such a superior product why isn't this reflected in their sales?

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

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Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

Agree. And, truck people are some of the most brand loyal folks on the planet for sure. A fact, not advertised enough apparently, is that Toyota Tundra has the most domestic content of the bunch. But, I think even the most ardent and loyal person will eventually dump a brand if it's perceived to be problem ridden. Example; I started driving Fords in the early 80's because I liked their extended cab and at that time GM only built a standard cab. Then, after about three iterations of Fords I went back to Chevy because of constant front-end alignment problems with Fords much vaunted Twin I-Beam front suspension system. As a last ditch attempt to correct a known problem Ford eventually came up with eccentric king pin bushings so that front wheels could be adjusted for camber and caster but it was too late for me. Consequently, Ford lost me for good. And, I have bought a bunch Chevy trucks and Suburbans since then, lost sales to Ford, lol !

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Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

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Some have had their issues resolved with new ring and pinion and some with new rims and tires but no real cure all that any of us have heard of. But go back 4 or 5 pages, there are links to a couple videos about isolating the e-brake cable. Couldn't hurt to try.

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I am looking at buying a 2016 Sierra and this has me worried. I can get a really nice SLT for much less than a comparable Ford right now because of July 4th sale. Does everyone have this damn issue? Should I just stick with Ford's? Maybe and Ecodiesel from Ram? I had problems with my 2010 F150, now having problems with my F250.............Toyota?

 

Anyways, not to rant, but seriously, how wide spread is the vibration issue? Is there even a correct answer? I know I read the report of SUV's making people car sick. Related?

I bought a new 2016 Silverado Z71 couple days before the 4th of July. Next evening left for Hilton head Island from central pa. Never heard of the vibration issues and luckily have none yet. Had it up to the mid 90's on a couple stretches just running with traffic, smooth as silk. Nearly 5k miles now. Still smooth as silk today. I must admit I am a bit worried now and also feel for those of you who are experiencing this issue . I would be very upset if I had any of these vibration issues. I love this truck and can't imagine having all these problems. I pro-toured my early 70's Nova and had fits getting the driveline angles spot on to eliminate vibrations. I did not read all 623 pages but enough to know there seems to be no cure all. I will continue to follow this thread to learn what I can. Lots of good stuff here in this Silverado forum.

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Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

Matt I agree with you to read the entire thread is a waste of life LOL. I owned a 2014 CC Z71 with 5.3 6 spd for 2.5 yrs and over 60k miles. I tossed the factory GY SRA's at less than 20k and bought the best 20" michelins I could find. Eliminated 90% of my vibration issues. My 2016 Denali is riding fairly smooth so far (less than 2k miles) on the factory GY SRA's but if they start acting up when they get some wear on them I will burn those succas and get some 20" Michelins again. My personal theory on all this is that the majority of the problem is with all these oversize wheels and tires nowadays it is almost impossible to properly balance especially with low quality tires.

 

You had mentioned your torque converter and I saw a thread about a torque converter replacement being the FIX on a 8 spd trans not sure if that would help on a 6 spd. here is the link http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/187450-who-likes-their-8-speed/ I thought that it was interesting that his dealership ran a torque converter slippage test and his had to be replaced and that FIXED his truck so there may actually be something to your torque converter theory.

Edited by MyFavTruck
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Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

But what most don't seem to get is that there is only two "American" truck companies (Dodge is owned by Fiat), and those two companies like to employ Mexicans instead of Americans to build a large portion of their products while their Japanese competitors employ a lot of Americans workers to build their vehicles. I stopped caring about if a vehicle is "American" or not years ago because there is no such thing anymore.

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Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

It could be your drive line angle is changing to far out of spec on decel, the engine is acting as an engine brake in return twisting the pinion down, that may explain why it goes away in neutral because then the engine isnt trying to slow down the pinion speed and keeping it more in line.

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Agree. And, truck people are some of the most brand loyal folks on the planet for sure. A fact, not advertised enough apparently, is that Toyota Tundra has the most domestic content of the bunch. But, I think even the most ardent and loyal person will eventually dump a brand if it's perceived to be problem ridden. Example; I started driving Fords in the early 80's because I liked their extended cab and at that time GM only built a standard cab. Then, after about three iterations of Fords I went back to Chevy because of constant front-end alignment problems with Fords much vaunted Twin I-Beam front suspension system. As a last ditch attempt to correct a known problem Ford eventually came up with eccentric king pin bushings so that front wheels could be adjusted for camber and caster but it was too late for me. Consequently, Ford lost me for good. And, I have bought a bunch Chevy trucks and Suburbans since then, lost sales to Ford, lol !

Check out this article from USA TODAY:

GM posts strong second quarter, jolting stock

 

http://usat.ly/29X4m41

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Well, I'm going to go with the Michelins. Anyone have a recommendation? Might was well "go big or go home" right? Give me the top two Michelin tires.

I'm looking at the LTX's. Defender? A/T 2's?

Thoughts?

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Well, I'm going to go with the Michelins. Anyone have a recommendation? Might was well "go big or go home" right? Give me the top two Michelin tires.

I'm looking at the LTX's. Defender? A/T 2's?

Thoughts?

Defender or AT2

personally I'd go AT2

Edited by Jesse D
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