Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don't have a 4x4, and by shims do you mean the leveling kit shims? Or something different?

 

At first I was like, I'm taking the lift kit off asap but I honestly don't think the lift kit could cause that issues or I might be wrong. On the rear end it would be the bigger block under the leaf springs, and the front end just those plastic polymer and preload strut spacer in the front.

 

Mine does it around 80-90 accelerating hard only

The shims they put in go under the the transfer case or in you case under the tranny mount and the ones they put in the rear are a wedge block that pointed the pinion downward more so when a lot of torque is being applied the pinion doesnt twist up to far

Posted

Exact same issue and setup level kit rearend and all except I have the 5.3.

My issue came back after a short while. Did yours? Also the shim kit they put in mine are silver almost like a cast something.

Mine has not came back

Posted

Mine has not came back

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

Posted

My exact situation, was looking at an Audi S3...pulled the trigger on the truck though. Dang!

I was looking at the A6 and the S4. Then saw the truck and was like "yep, thats mine"

 

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

Its not lift kits

  • Like 1
Posted

I was looking at the A6 and the S4. Then saw the truck and was like "yep, thats mine"

 

Its not lift kits

 

 

Okay cool, sounds good. I also don't think it's the lift kit causing it.

Posted

Test drove my cousins new 2016 Chevy the white one today with 200 miles and her truck does the same crap that mine with less then 6000 miles is doing the black one. So happy to say it's not the lift kit. Next step is to take the driveshaft to get checked out and hope that's it. I'll report back when I get the driveshaft back from the shop.

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

Posted

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

You will have to take it to the dealer and have them ride with you to hear the noise, they will not take it to that speed or drive it aggressive, and if it is the pinion twisting up under hard accel at high speeds then they need to put shims in, the rear wedge shim they put on mine is additional to the block that is under the leaf springs, and they put spacers between the transfer case and the mount but on yours they would put them under the tranny. You could also go to the part store and get some leaf spring clamps and put them 8'' behind the rear leaf spring block, that will help stiffen up the spring pack and stop the pinion from twisting up as far, it wont hurt the ride of the truck either. tThe clamps are cheap also

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

You will have to take it to the dealer and have them ride with you to hear the noise, they will not take it to that speed or drive it aggressive, and if it is the pinion twisting up under hard accel at high speeds then they need to put shims in, the rear wedge shim they put on mine is additional to the block that is under the leaf springs, and they put spacers between the transfer case and the mount but on yours they would put them under the tranny. You could also go to the part store and get some leaf spring clamps and put them 8'' behind the rear leaf spring block, that will help stiffen up the spring pack and stop the pinion from twisting up as far, it wont hurt the ride of the truck either. tThe clamps are cheap also

Posted

Test drove my cousins new 2016 Chevy the white one today with 200 miles and her truck does the same crap that mine with less then 6000 miles is doing the black one. So happy to say it's not the lift kit. Next step is to take the driveshaft to get checked out and hope that's it. I'll report back when I get the driveshaft back from the shop.

Im not saying its your leveling kit, im saying its probably your rear drive shaft angle when under hard acceleration at high speeds over 75mph like mine was. If you check the angle while sitting on level ground it could be ok, but when high torque is applied to the rear end like while driving at high speeds and then flooring the gas peddle the angle can be way out of spec, i think the reason for this is the spring are to soft for the first couple inches to give a better ride which then makes the differential twist up and down to much, that is why if you try the leaf spring clamps behind the block it will stiffen up the spring pack so it dont twist as much.

Posted

I know, but I was kinda concern at first. I thought it was the damn lift kit but thankfully my little cousin just bought her new Chevy and hers is doing the same thing mine is, so that rules out the lift kit. I'll look into the clamps, actually if you have pics that would be great! But I still want to get the driveshaft inspected at a driveshaft shop. Only then I'll be okay

Posted

Funny, I was told by the dealer that I would have to pay them to balance my duratracs before they would move on to pooming at the driveshaft. I asked for a road force balance and they didnt know what that was.....

Ask around for the name of the GM Zone Manager or better yet, everyone with a problem should post to social media: twitter and use @chevy or @chevrolet in their post. GM monitors social media for this stuff and that will get their attention believe it or not. I had a problem with ADT and raped them on twitter and got a direct message from corporate offering to rectify the problem

 

This is from twitter

"@chevrolet @JHNemechek The new Silverado shakes and vibrates on the highway. Has GM figured out this problem yet?

 

Use Facebook if you have it or twitter and put it everywhere. This is what it takes now

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Family member (close) is service director for large chevy store. Has worked in chevy for twenty years. He has been told to take trucks in, rebalance wheels and send them on their way. If they come back replace wheels... said they had four more come in last week with bad vibration at 65-70mph. Secondary issues are hard shifting so there is def an issue with powertrain. I told him I found this string on the forum and he suggested passing along the info.

 

Might be an inconvenience to do so but bring it back for the same problem and continue to do so until they address. GM has zone managers that oversee dealers and manage recurring issues. They are well aware and if it is newer, you can force a buyback by GM. Buybacks go back to the dealer and they resell usually with a longer GM sponsored warranty as an incentive but you need to escalate it from the dealer level to get this resolved. Dealer will do nothing to facilitate a buyback

Hope that helps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My buddy has a 2015 and had hard shifting issues. At first he got the transmission is learning routine, After 6k problem was still there, took in for first complimentary service to local dealer, he bought the truck in Nevada at a different dealer, the only one he could find as a SLT with max tow and a leather bench seat in the front. Anyways, local dealer said maybe it just needed a reflash or program update. Local dealer calls back in 45 minutes and asks if he bought the truck brand new because it was 2 quarts low on transmission fluid. Topped the tranny off and it shifts just like is supposed to. Local dealer said the selling dealer should have caught it because it's parts of the process when receiving the trucks from the factory to check all fluid levels.

Posted

I've had a vibration with mine since I bought it with 8 miles on it, has about 6,000 on it now. Road force balanced tires 2 times, didn't really help. WELL! One of our techs found this today, and we checked another one with a vibration, and sure enough, same thing. Something with the left rear axle/face on the axle is out of round. I put a magnetic screw driver on the e-brake shoe as a reference. Watch the gap between the axle face and the screwdriver.

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Correct.

 

It's hard to tell if the studs are running true, we are going to put an axle in one of them and see if that does it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...