Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Are you saying your 22s are 100lbs each with or without tires mounted....???? If without, I'm curious what my wheel weighs thus what my total wheel/tire weight is for myself....

Posted

I dropped my truck off on Monday with a different dealer about an hour from me. They went through all the tires/wheels and checked alignment and found nothing out of whack. They called me and said everything seemed normal and with in spec to them. They didn't drive the vehicle so I asked them to do test drives before I come pick it up.

 

They called me Tuesday afternoon and said they wasn't able to drive it but they did go ahead and remove the drive shaft and verified it was balanced properly. It tested "well within spec". I asked why they didn't test drive and was told they didn't need to as they could test it better in the shop than on the poor roads around them.

 

I decided not to push any more. I picked the truck up Wed. morning and drove it 2 blocks down the road and traded it for a 2016 F-150 Platinum. I can't remember ever being so happy with a purchase decision. After owning about a dozen GM vehicles I/nor my kids will ever own another one, never.

  • Like 7
Posted

I dropped my truck off on Monday with a different dealer about an hour from me. They went through all the tires/wheels and checked alignment and found nothing out of whack. They called me and said everything seemed normal and with in spec to them. They didn't drive the vehicle so I asked them to do test drives before I come pick it up.

 

They called me Tuesday afternoon and said they wasn't able to drive it but they did go ahead and remove the drive shaft and verified it was balanced properly. It tested "well within spec". I asked why they didn't test drive and was told they didn't need to as they could test it better in the shop than on the poor roads around them.

 

I decided not to push any more. I picked the truck up Wed. morning and drove it 2 blocks down the road and traded it for a 2016 F-150 Platinum. I can't remember ever being so happy with a purchase decision. After owning about a dozen GM vehicles I/nor my kids will ever own another one, never.

Welcome to the Club my friend. Instead of a Platinum I went for a Fully Loaded Lariat with virtually every package available, you'll enjoy it! post a pic of her

  • Like 1
Posted

After having the steering bushings replaced with "newly engineered" ones and a u joint replaced I'm happy to report that I don't feel vibration from 70-80mph any more. Only problem now is my steering wheel cocked to the right a few degrees... I guess I can live with that for now, beats shaking down the road all day

Posted

After having the steering bushings replaced with "newly engineered" ones and a u joint replaced I'm happy to report that I don't feel vibration from 70-80mph any more. Only problem now is my steering wheel cocked to the right a few degrees... I guess I can live with that for now, beats shaking down the road all day

Could you please post what was on the work order? Part numbers replaced? Was a service bulletin referenced? Thanks!!! Any information helps us work towards getting our trucks fixed.

 

I'm not sure about the new GM trucks, but my S10 had a self aligning steering column. As long as the alignment was straight, it would center itself over time.

  • Like 1
Posted

Could you please post what was on the work order? Part numbers replaced? Was a service bulletin referenced? Thanks!!! Any information helps us work towards getting our trucks fixed.

 

I'm not sure about the new GM trucks, but my S10 had a self aligning steering column. As long as the alignment was straight, it would center itself over time.

No service bulletin but here is the part number for the bushings 84097717

 

After two days of driving I'm still pleased with the result. I still think these stock tires a junk and now that there has been some resolution to my problem I can now focus on upgrading. Looking at Cooper AT3 at the moment.

  • Like 1
Posted

No service bulletin but here is the part number for the bushings 84097717

 

After two days of driving I'm still pleased with the result. I still think these stock tires a junk and now that there has been some resolution to my problem I can now focus on upgrading. Looking at Cooper AT3 at the moment.

Thanks!!! Can anyone dig up what this looks like and how hard it is to replace? All I can find is it's $32 online.

Posted

No service bulletin but here is the part number for the bushings 84097717

 

After two days of driving I'm still pleased with the result. I still think these stock tires a junk and now that there has been some resolution to my problem I can now focus on upgrading. Looking at Cooper AT3 at the moment.

Schmidt152, for others and myself, what were the vibrations that you were feeling?

Posted

I've had my 2015 CCSB, 4x4, 5.3 LTZ for three weeks and it turned into a vibrator yesterday. Only had 5200 miles on it when I bought it.

 

It went from the smoothest vehicle I have ever owned to a vibrating mess. About a week ago I started feeling vibrations in the gas pedal. Nothing major just a minor annoyance. I get back from Nashville last night and drive it home from the airport and I started noticing a side to side vibration in the steering wheel at speeds between 65 and 75. It got worse at higher speeds.

 

I drove it on a 40 mile round trip today and it was worse. I've driven that same route numerous times and never had an issues. So I know it isn't the road.

 

I have an appointment Thursday at the dealership to have it looked at. Fingers crossed.

Posted

Vibration in the steering wheel plus vibration in the seats and console as well. Steering wheel was the worse BUT hold your horse because GUESS WHAT? ITSSSSS BACKKKKK! Truck was smooth as glass when I got it back and now it's the same as it was. Well maybe slightly better... but still that damn thing still shakes. And I get it, it's a truck and it's not suppose to ride like a Cadillac but vibration is far different from a stiff truck suspension. RT I know what you're going to say, and I agree. My beef is that I want this done on GM's dime and I want answers from GM. But this is BEYOND ridiculous! My dealer has been great to work with. They've gone as far as picking up my truck from home and leaving me a loaner (That's service!). What is killing me is GM and their mechanics and engineers attention to detail. My steering wheel is now crooked to the right and when I dropped it off it wasnt. That's a simple fix so just @$&!ing do it. I gave them a list of all the items people complained about and none of them checked to my knowledge. Just a "bad U joint and newly engineered bushings" B$!!s&$&.. This rant is far from over GM but that's all the time I have for now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...