Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had to repaint my 2013.

Frame painting.

101_0161_zps5nkj4qaq.jpg
101_0163_zpsvploe5ce.jpg
Original Coating coming off in chips.101_0165_zpseacfmazo.jpg
How did those leafs get in there?
101_0164_zpslvk1zrgm.jpg
Bought Chassis Saver for $40 a quart
MPC-UCP970-04__45146.1407852122.1280.128
Painted
101_0162_zpsl9gkctmk.jpg
Posted (edited)

I've noticed rust around some edges in different spots on my frame, noticeably in the rear wheel wells. I've kind of ignored it, it looks like it's just surface rust. But my cousin was showing me his new '15 Ram, and it looks immaculate underneath. Mine never looked that good even when it was new. And now that this thread has popped up again I'm wondering if I should take it in and have it taken care of?

 

Edit: It was bugging me after reading this, went out to take a picture and was quite easily able to take a big flake of wax off. Here's a pic of the flake and some of the rust in the wheel well.

 

IMG_20150621_215235.jpg

 

I have to go in this week for them to repair one of my coat hook that won't stay down, maybe I'll mention it to the service guy then

Edited by jonny24
Posted

So I brought it up with the dealer, they said it was normal and to check out any other truck on the lot and they'll have the same thing. They'll fix it, talk to the business office to see how much it will cost cus I'm over 20000 km. :dunno:

Posted

Of course a 2015 Ram will look immaculate. My coworker's Ram looked immaculate 2 years ago and his frame looks plenty rusty now.

 

The factory wax is shit. Some guys on here will tell you to just keep putting the same GM wax back on. It's a waste of money and time. The wax will continue to harden and flake off. Either Fluid Film it or completely strip the wax and apply something like POR 15.

Posted

I get that the Ram was new, my point was that mine never looked that good even when it was new. I didn't realize how good it could/should have been.

 

Anyone know what this "20000 km mark" is? I couldn't find anything about it in my warranty book.

Posted

Oh, and apparently GM has a TSB out for this, REALLY, what another JOKE!!. Do they really think they can resolve the entire chassis, NO WAY IN HELL THIS CAN BE DONE RIGHT with a tubed chassis or not removing the cab, drive line and tons of other components, etc. Just think about what is happening inside the tubed part of the chassis where you cant where water and salts will lay, add the oxygen and booyah you got lots of rust. Clearly shows GM engineers don't think, but they do got good slogans to think about and promote.


Posted

 

Oh, and apparently GM has a TSB out for this, REALLY, what another JOKE!!. Do they really think they can resolve the entire chassis, NO WAY IN HELL THIS CAN BE DONE RIGHT with a tubed chassis or not removing the cab, drive line and tons of other components, etc. Just think about what is happening inside the tubed part of the chassis where you cant where water and salts will lay, add the oxygen and booyah you got lots of rust. Clearly shows GM engineers don't think, but they do got good slogans to think about and promote.

 

I am somewhat ok with the rust as most of it will be cosmetic, but it really bothers me when they promote it as the most corrosive free vehicle, I wish this was never advertised!!!

Posted

My 2002 chevy's frame had lots of surface rust but was structurally sound. I can not say the same for the sheet metal, brake, fuel, and transmission lines though, they were all in rough shape when I traded it in. Made me think long and hard if I wanted another Chevy but I too saw the statement in the brochure about how it was designed to resist rust so I took the plunge again. Time will tell I guess. For now I am just cleaning up what rust I find on the frame and spraying over it.

Posted

So I brought it up with the dealer, they said it was normal and to check out any other truck on the lot and they'll have the same thing. They'll fix it, talk to the business office to see how much it will cost cus I'm over 20000 km. :dunno:

 

I sent an email to my sales lady just mentioning that conversation and asking what the 20 000 mark specifically was. After a week or so I got a reply from the service manager saying that one year/20 000 is when GM will allow them to reapply the undercoating. He then said he spoke to his GM rep and since I am just over (well 24000km) and within one year they will do it for me. He says they'll need it for two days so it sounds like the more in-depth fix.

 

The rust is not that bad on mine, mostly around edges/welds, but the big flakes is why I brought it up to them. I think I will take it in since it's being offered. I can't think of any reason why not to :dunno:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I took mine in for the frame touch up. The frame rails are totally recoated, except on corner of a bracket that has rust on it... So I'm assuming they just sprayed over everything :wtf::rolleyes: Oh well, I'll oil spray it before winter like I was going to anyway.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...