Jump to content

Chevy Cruze Diesel MPG Numbers Announced - 52 MPG Highway


Recommended Posts

Posted

post-139450-0-07443500-1486997301_thumb.jpg

John Goreham
Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com
2-13-2017

Chevrolet announced its EPA-Estimated fuel economy numbers today for the new 2017 Cruze Diesel.

Cruze Diesel w/ six-speed manual = 30 mpg City, 52 MPG Highway, and 37 mpg combined.

Cruze Diesel w/ nine-speed automatic = 31 mpg City, 47 mpg Highway and 37 mpg combined.

post-139450-0-51680400-1486997707_thumb.png

These numbers should put the Cruze diesel on top in overall fuel efficiency for non-hybrid vehicles in its class, though it will likely be very close to or behind the Honda Civic in Combined fuel economy. The Civic sedan automatic, with its 1.5-liter turbocharged gasoline engine earns a 36 MPG Combined rating using regular unleaded gasoline. FuelEconomy.GOV has not yet published the full specifications for the Cruze, but we will bring that information to our readers when it is available.

 

Chevy says that the new Cruze will have only 137 hp, but a whopping 240 lb-ft of torque. Chevy also says that the vehicle has passed all U.S. environmental standards and validations, including Tier 3 Bin 125 emissions standards. The 2017 Cruze Diesel Sedan will start at $24,670 including destination. Chevy says the 2018 model year Cruze Diesel Hatch will follow the sedan late in 2017.

post-139450-0-07443500-1486997301_thumb.jpg

post-139450-0-51680400-1486997707_thumb.png

post-139450-0-07443500-1486997301_thumb.jpg

post-139450-0-51680400-1486997707_thumb.png

post-139450-0-07443500-1486997301_thumb.jpg

post-139450-0-51680400-1486997707_thumb.png

Posted

Thank you GM for spending billions on CLEAN DIESEL in EU AND USA! SUCK IT VW now it's just a matter of time before the 20,000 units or so of total USA sales is chocking the life out of your lying crap! Monthly numbers I am talking about~!

Posted

Awesome numbers! Hopefully they're underrated like for our nissan versa (6mt), which is rated at 36 mpg highway but has gotten up to 46 multiple times.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G550T using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks Bog Red 'Rado. Indeed, a weird typo on my part. No idea how 36 ended up 17. Thanks for pointing it out, I have fixed it in the post.

Posted

Let's just hope those are real numbers and GM isn't doing anything illegal to get them.

Posted

....And then after DPF clean out mode....25 mpg?

Posted

 

I clicked this thread thinking 52mpg nominal.

 

my 3000 pound, 10 geared 1987 subaru has been at 38mpg for 30 years.

it is astounding.

the REAL 38mpg is astounding.

 

I have the hot rod motor today, 1781cc with dual port... dropped it to 30mpg hammer down.

city highway, anyway..

90mph is 3600rpm...and strangely it's peak of mpg.

 

injection can't do the old draft games anymore, glad to see the 30s anyway, modern and more power..and even air conditioning etc.

 

Don't laugh, but as the weather gets colder, I want my engines to use more. My truck has gone down to low teens at single digit temps or less.

that is something else these little engine people are failing to mention... as most companies do. They all know when to use more to air density today.

The old carbs stayed a rock. Got real annoying in lean conditions, cold weather, or fog.. whatever changes air.

 

rambling on..what they got is nothing new...the gadgets surrounding old numbers is the good stuff.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...