Jump to content

Audio Help

Silva

By Silva
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silva Enthusiast

Silva

Posted
Posted

I want to get some help from the forum with my audio set up. I want to upgrade the factory non-bose speakers. I spoke to my local audio shop over the phone about replacing the speakers on all 4 doors. Then I asked about the dash speakers and he said yes, he can add tweeters there as well. 

 

I assumed the tweeter would be placed in a custom location (like sail panel or A piilar), and the dash would receive its own upgraded speaker. Am I on the right track with that set up? Or does it all really depend on the type of dash speaker I go with? Thanks.

th3magpi3 Enthusiast

th3magpi3

Posted
Posted

I don't think he's referring to the addition of pillar speakers but is referring to adding tweeters under the dash.

I could be mistaken but I don't even know if pillar speakers exist for our models even aftermarket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Silva Enthusiast

Silva

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, th3magpi3 said:

I don't think he's referring to the addition of pillar speakers but is referring to adding tweeters under the dash.

I could be mistaken but I don't even know if pillar speakers exist for our models even aftermarket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea that's what he meant was to add the tweeters in under the dash. Would this be a wise thing to do in terms of overall sound?

 

I've seen pictures of other set ups where the tweeter is custom installed on our trucks away from under the dash. 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

If you're just replacing speakers, don't expect a huge differance.  Aftermarket speskers do tske more power and the blose amp isnt very powerful

 

I am working on my audio now but igo way farther the 99% of people do

  • Like 1
th3magpi3 Enthusiast

th3magpi3

Posted
Posted
Yea that's what he meant was to add the tweeters in under the dash. Would this be a wise thing to do in terms of overall sound?
 
I've seen pictures of other set ups where the tweeter is custom installed on our trucks away from under the dash. 

I honestly do not mind my stock Sierra audio at all! I thing the audio is very clear and crisp. I just wish I had the low end. If you're happy with the current sound I would just add some newer door speakers (in my opinion it's where most of the audio is delivered to the driver) with some high quality ones (I like Alpine) and add a woofer. Should do the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 2 weeks later...
chrmbly Enthusiast

chrmbly

Posted
Posted

I recently upgrade my stereo after planning for a long time. I ended up with a set of Morel 6x9 components in front and put the tweeters in the dash location where the little 3 inch ish speakers are, and put in morel coaxes in the rear. I used a sub box from Rodney’s boxes that installed under the center console that came preloaded with an 8” Kicker solobaric. The trick is getting it all to work with the stock head unit, because short of replacing with the super expensive Alpine Restyle headunit, you lose too much on the way of all the functions outside of the audio. I found a video on YouTube from the 5 star audio team for a 2014 Silverado or Sierra. I copied their setup and got a PAC unit to convert the signal to flat, then went to a Rockford Fosgate DSP, then to my amp (scores a good deal on a used Alpine PDX V9 on fleabay - 100x4 + 500x1 for the sub). Happy to share my experience. I’m still messing with it, just got it done last weekend.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

chrmbly Enthusiast

chrmbly

Posted
Posted

Pros: 8” gives good bass, not overkill. Saves space under rear bench. Looks completely stock for a stealthy install. PAC unit lets you modify chime volume, which is nice. DSP gives you tons of control to tune the system making up for the wimpy EQ in the stock headunit.

 

Cons: not 12’s. [emoji23] The only catch with the PAC unit is that it doesn’t play great with the non-Bose system ONLY for XM/AM/FM - in the non-Bose application you can flip the third dip switch to basically fake stereo sound by copying the L or R channel to the other side (so not real stereo). After having my head updated by[mention=192095]th3magpi3[/mention] I only really use my CarPlay anyway.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

chrmbly Enthusiast

chrmbly

Posted
Posted

Non pretty install under driver side rear bench. Finished up after midnight Sunday. I’ll go back and try to clean up more later.

1d84324fc626472a0fd5bbde5e23eb77.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ftwhite Enthusiast

ftwhite

Posted
Posted

On my 2018, the dash speakers are a separate channel and play the door chimes and environment sounds. So replacing those can be important to matching the others. I also changed the door speakers from coaxle to separates and moved the tweeter to the sail panel. Huge improvment, but even more after adding aftermarket Amp. But that's were cost starts to balloon. 91922e58ea3697d3b53dd0bb6f06e89f.jpgfae3b9095428b1f9f872e4dc02021428.jpge97438a5a73d1dc3713ac6abf47a74f3.jpgddc4b2b83beb311a5e2506464bca70b7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Silva Enthusiast

Silva

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Quick update on this. Ended up with JL Audio C1 6x9 components in the front, and 6.5 coaxials in the rear. I left the dash speakers in place and mounted the tweeters flush on the door panel right behind the handle. Powered by the JL RD400/4 and left the stock head unit. Everything sounds amazing and no loud chimes to report just the same as before. 

 

EDIT: I did not do this myself my local shop did lol

 

 

Edited by Silva
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Silva said:

Quick update on this. Ended up with JL Audio C1 6x9 components in the front, and 6.5 coaxials in the rear. I left the dash speakers in place and mounted the tweeters flush on the door panel right behind the handle. Powered by the JL RD400/4 and left the stock head unit. Everything sounds amazing and no loud chimes to report just the same as before. 

 

EDIT: I did not do this myself my local shop did lol

 

 

If you left the oem dash speakers in.  They left that signal alone.  Which is the chimes.  

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...