Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
So you’ve got a at4 which is already higher and then u add another 2” of lift? And u say those tires r rubbing bad?? At the dealership where I bought my slt the manager was driving a stock slt with factory rims with 285/60-20 ko2. No rubbing, no issues. Ur willing to cut up and butcher a $60K+ vehicle just so u can run those stupid ass wide rims? Faak I wish I had ur money!

It is definitely the offset on those rims causing the issue.

I’m planning on putting the same size tires on my AT4 (with 1.5” level) but with +0 wheels and don’t anticipate having issues like this.
Posted

The rim is a -25. Wish I went with less off set. But there was not alot of AT4s on the road when I ordered. I got the truck Jan 2019. I was look for info but there wasn't alot out there. More did tires but not the rims. Lot of new info out now.

I posted the pictures to help other people.f4870dbbfd64d4762876ad7cb7f5be1b.jpgbab5721fb71d9dda5ce468329b359c7f.jpgbcf0378a2c7be46dc99242c3bf7fe2c3.jpgc946718a6bc28262bbe986f90b04f2dc.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
What offset and size are the fuel wheels..?  What size tires...?
Chevys have more room.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
On 7/30/2019 at 9:38 AM, Bluerado23 said:

299a0fecb0149ef80c57a066d1657cc6.jpgad3247efeec5ef396c7e8bca57396d7f.jpge34a6977b7cd2ef77a76dba3e56f32a2.jpg

315/70/17 KO2
17x9.5 Black Rhino Roku +12
2 inch ready lift level
Slight rubbing on inner part of mud flap.

Your truck looks perfect! Would this setup work for a stock Trail Boss? Have you done any trimming to try to eliminate the rubbing?

Edited by EricTheRed
Posted
Your truck looks perfect! Would this setup work for a stock Trail Boss? Have you done any trimming to try to eliminate the rubbing?

Thanks! I would assume so because front end sits as high as a trail boss but I have no rear lift like one does.
It rubbed only on the mud flap. What I did was cut the inner half off, left the outer piece on to eliminate the rubbing. The front was just fine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Your truck looks perfect! Would this setup work for a stock Trail Boss? Have you done any trimming to try to eliminate the rubbing?

Thanks! I would assume so because front end sits as high as a trail boss but I have no rear lift like one does.
It rubbed only on the mud flap. What I did was cut the inner half off, left the outer piece on to eliminate the rubbing. The front was just fine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
7 hours ago, Flatblack83 said:

What offset and size are the fuel wheels..?  What size tires...?

+1 20x9 

35” 12.50

Posted
On 7/15/2019 at 6:42 PM, BlackLS said:

20x10 -18 Fuel Mavericks

6mm Bora hub and wheel centric spacers

Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35x12.5

2" Trail Boss Lift + 4" BDS Lift = 6" Total

Mud Flap bracket delete

Tied back the front of fender liner

 

5d2d0ea833262_Untitled1.thumb.jpg.f84914e5aa87c4aa0845af08894acf9c.jpg

5d2d0f4eb6c99_z71front.thumb.jpg.8e7be57e8dcddacd8eb647aaba10aa5d.jpg

Any pics of the bracket delete?

  • Like 1
Posted

2yxj4wV.jpg?1

 

Readylift 2" level up front

Rotiform Six-OR 17x9 et1

Cooper AT3 XLT 285/75/R17

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/15/2019 at 2:09 AM, GJM32387 said:

Fuel Rebel 20x10 -18 Offset
No spacers
Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/55/20
Factory Trailboss Suspension
Slight Rub on mudflap on full lock.

14c27c1883075e810cb83e72b0f05fdc.jpg

0896e858fa51ebd098fdb9b1740a5bad.jpg

3a0ab97107d5216bad555200175cbf38.jpg

Nice truck. Do you have any pix from the front or rear to show how far out the wheels go past the fenders?

 

Thanks

Posted

Well.. I tried to join this topic this morning.  Went to put on some Hostile Fury's.  The new caliper would not let them fit.  We expected that so we had some 6mm spacers.  Still did not allow the wheel to turn with these.  I'm not wanting to go with spacers in the first place, let alone something wider than what we tried.  I guess I need to pick a different wheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 476 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...