Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Has anyone ever removed their liners and inspected the wells' steel several years after being installed?  My concern is, since the liner is not chemically bonded to the steel (eg undercoated, bed-coated, etc), there could be pockets of moisture trapped between the backside of the liner and the well steel, that never really evaporates.  I would think this collected moisture could pose a real problem, especially at weld points.  I understand that the liners themselves will protect the surface of the factory painted wells from being compromised from stones, etc., but what about small pinholes or shallow coatings that might exist in the factory paint (especially at welds).  My '19 LD came with front liners, and I'm looking for some feedback for my rears.   

Edited by Big R Ed
Posted

Hoping to get some feedback.  PA roads being with they are, with potholes every 10 yards, its almost like commuting to work daily on gravel roads.  I have the factory liners on the front and depending on the consensus, I'd entertain pulling them off, applying a coating, and reinstalling for the benefit of sound absorption. 

Posted (edited)

I know that in the winter the little holes where the wheel liner is secured on by have corrosion marks from the road salt. The front wheels have rust starting where it peeled off the primer/corrosion protection on the lower corner where the mudflap is as well as the mounting tab just above the bumper in the wheel well. For the rear wheels I have rust starting to bubble the paint in the middle area of the wheel arch. I am playing around with fluid film and shot it on the outside of the lip just to see how it holds up as well as put it on spots of the frame to see how it looks after this upcoming winter. If it seems to help then I will pull the liners and finish spraying them as well as spray the entire frame.

 

Another area prone to rusting is the front door jamb where the hinges are. The little padded material they stuffed in there collects dirt and all kinds of junk (I had leaves and pine needles from the previous owner all in the bottom of there). I just pulled both my front wheel liners and used compressed air to blow out all the crap in there and will see next year how much junk builds up and maybe make it a routine yearly to pull the liners and blow out all the accumulated garbage in there.

Edited by kickass audio
Posted

Good info.  I work with a guy out of Buffalo - serious winter - serious road salt.  Do you think doing under/bedcoat, before doing liners, would have helped?  Do you think just doing several coats of under/bed-coat and going without liners is a better route?  I'm looking at the wheel liners like drop-in bed liners - the back side just abrades the factory paint and compromising the protection of the factory paint.

Posted

Don’t forget the fully boxed frames rust from the inside out. I hose out the underside of my truck every couple of weeks or immediately after driving on wet salt roads in upstate NY and even my ‘84 has no rust on the frame, doors, or fenders...or anywhere actually. Can’t hose out the inside of the frame though... my last F150 needed a frame patch, as the rust ate through the undercoating from the inside and lifted it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yep.  Right now I'm concerned with the wheel area.  I also spray the undercarriage, but I go back to the pockets of salt water that are trapped between the liner and well.  Without taking the liners off each washing, that will always reside there (and I'll hear it munching away at my steel while I lay in bed at night).  Like Kickass noted, it doesn't seem specific to any one area.  Not sure about the other states, but my area of PA now immediately sprays down a layer of liquid brine solution, at the slightest hint of a snow flake.  So basically, we are driving on white roads December thu to the begining of March.

  • Like 1
Posted

Twice a year I remove my rear liners to clean up there. There are 3 rubber plugs in both rear wheel wells, pull them out and hose the area out/spray undercoating. Dirt gets trapped between the panels and causes the rust above the rear wheels on these trucks. Usually pull my tail lights to hose out as well.

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, xax said:

Twice a year I remove my rear liners to clean up there. There are 3 rubber plugs in both rear wheel wells, pull them out and hose the area out/spray undercoating. Dirt gets trapped between the panels and causes the rust above the rear wheels on these trucks. Usually pull my tail lights to hose out as well.

I do same once a year I have a 2017 fabric liners front and back no rust so far not much dirt in there I do spray with fluid film. Behind tailites is were most of crude gets trapped I pull them and clean and spray with  FF

 

Posted

Thanks.  I guess the verdict is in - concerns with buildup behind them necessitates regular removal.  Sounds like extra work (the removal process) that can be avoided with a quality spray-on coating.  With the spray on, simply get up under the well and start cleaning - no need for removal.

Posted

I took my rears out last weekend to install new liners. I didn't take any pics while the liners were out but I saw nothing to make me think there would be rust. I did take a water hose and towel and clean everything up really nicely while the liners were out. I made sure the wheel well lips were really clean before installing the new liners. There was really not much dirt behind the liners even though the old ones were worn through.

20190914_102510.thumb.jpg.fc399554f2bda0f02902d3b052df1fe0.jpg

Posted

I had mine Ziebarted (I live squarely in the rust belt), and pulled the liners when I had it done so they could spray that part of the bed.  I've pulled them each year, and have noticed no issues at all - no wear on the rustproofing from the liners and no noticeable issues of any sort.

Posted

Line-X Premium that covers the body to wheel well seam and plastic attachments. What dirt you see hoses out and looks like new. Very easy to maintain.  There are a couple of plugs in the bed above the wheel wells that allow hosing with a wand with out removing the tail lamps. Good place to add oil to the seem for those so inclined. 

 

DSCF3008.thumb.JPG.ef72d8dc3caadd309f0a597ade29d3e8.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

I had them in my 2010 no rust issues. Cousin of mine had a similar truck with no fender liners and was a year newer and his rear wheel wells had a bunch of rust.


Ryan B.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I take all 4 liners out and pull all the mud flaps off once a year before i get it oil sprayed. so far so good.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...