Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I promise my fix will work for anyone here-

 

One of the early birds from this thread and I have kept up with it and all of you. After going through the wringer as many have here including new tranny, drive shaft, 3 sets of new tires, new seat brackets for a sliding seat, I through in the towel 2 weeks ago.

Took my truck to ford dealership where they bought my tx edition for 28k with 26,0000 miles on it, 2wd and traded it in for a 2014 f-150 super crew 4x4 with 17 miles on it for 29k OTD. I am beyond happy that my nightmare is over. The mental hell of being in that truck infuriated me and every time I saw a GM dealership I want to drive right through it. I have owned almost 20 silverados and WAS a loyal customer. WE bailed you out with our money and gave you a second chance. Obv no lesson was learned as GM stills runs a shit business. I know my bitching on here will fall on deaf ears and not changed shit. But I do have enough money to choose what I want to drive. I will never buy from GM again after this. EVER.

 

If any one else is interested, they are cutting the '14 f150's way down ( almost 20k off sticker ).

This being my first ford ever, I am very impressed with the build quality of the truck. I could of waited for the '15 model but was not interested in buying first year redesign. I liked that this was the final year of this style as the kinks were all out. Truck drives night and day better. NO VIBRATION. Even when I put on my BFG 275/65/20 all terrain so's on, no vibration. Transmition has nice firm shifts without the shitty lag that would slip and catch on a daily basis with my shitverado.

 

Go get a good trade number and get out while truck is still relatively new. Shit aint changing boys. You cannot put a price tag on piece of mind.

 

Good luck to all of you and I'm sorry you , we, got pissed on by a bunch of greedy ****s.

 

IM GOING TO ENJOY WATCHING YOUR COMPANY FAIL, GM. **** you-

I'm close to Austin, what ford dealer did you use?

  • Like 1
Posted

Do we have anyone here that feels slight vibrations in the steering wheel? It sure feels like a harmonic of some type. I can't imagine that I would get this much road feel from the steering.

 

Hey 14silverado4.3,

I'm sorry to hear about this concern. Have you considered taking your truck into your dealership? I can look into this further for you, if you would private message me with your VIN, contact info, current mileage and preferred dealership.

 

Anisha T

GM Customer Care

Posted

 

Wait so you got a new transmission and it still didn't fix it? I believe you are the only one anyone here has heard of that had the transmission replaced and people were speculating the tranny has to be the issue because its the only thing that hasn't been changed yet on any of the un-fixable trucks. That's truly alarming if it's still not the transmission either.

 

When they're replacing parts with the same parts, why would the problem be fixed?

 

This problem will never go away until GM acknowledges the problem and then issues a real fix. Until then, everyone is screwed.

Posted

Took my 2014 Lt back to the shop yesterday. They took it for a 6 mile ride with nothing but a teçt 2 in hand took a few snap shots and said that my herts readings was 0 to 10 and ten is the highest level within GM spects. They haven't checked any runouts on anything. I watch every move while my truck is in the shop and no one has ever even looked under my truck. Then I'm told that it is my responsibility to get a GM rep involved that he cannot do this. I have been trying to resolve this for 12000 miles. Does anybody have any ideas about who I need to contact? I have a GM case number but all this has got me is a phone call every Friday at 4pm asking me how my truck is doing for the last 5 weeks!

The first step is to contact the DMA (District Manager After-sales) and ask for assistance which can be in the form of trade assistance or buy back. A good Service Manager will do that for you. The DMA normally does not communicate directly with customers.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I promise my fix will work for anyone here-

 

One of the early birds from this thread and I have kept up with it and all of you. After going through the wringer as many have here including new tranny, drive shaft, 3 sets of new tires, new seat brackets for a sliding seat, I through in the towel 2 weeks ago.

Took my truck to ford dealership where they bought my tx edition for 28k with 26,0000 miles on it, 2wd and traded it in for a 2014 f-150 super crew 4x4 with 17 miles on it for 29k OTD. I am beyond happy that my nightmare is over. The mental hell of being in that truck infuriated me and every time I saw a GM dealership I want to drive right through it. I have owned almost 20 silverados and WAS a loyal customer. WE bailed you out with our money and gave you a second chance. Obv no lesson was learned as GM stills runs a shit business. I know my bitching on here will fall on deaf ears and not changed shit. But I do have enough money to choose what I want to drive. I will never buy from GM again after this. EVER.

 

If any one else is interested, they are cutting the '14 f150's way down ( almost 20k off sticker ).

This being my first ford ever, I am very impressed with the build quality of the truck. I could of waited for the '15 model but was not interested in buying first year redesign. I liked that this was the final year of this style as the kinks were all out. Truck drives night and day better. NO VIBRATION. Even when I put on my BFG 275/65/20 all terrain so's on, no vibration. Transmition has nice firm shifts without the shitty lag that would slip and catch on a daily basis with my shitverado.

 

Go get a good trade number and get out while truck is still relatively new. Shit aint changing boys. You cannot put a price tag on piece of mind.

 

Good luck to all of you and I'm sorry you , we, got pissed on by a bunch of greedy ****s.

 

IM GOING TO ENJOY WATCHING YOUR COMPANY FAIL, GM. **** you-

Why didn't we hear about the transmission being replaced sooner especially if you've been following along since the beginning of this thread.

Regardless, I still believe my 2014's vibration is being generated by the transmission, it gets more or less intense based on the RPM range, if I let off the accelerator it usually goes away or the intensity lessens drastically. I can feel it almost all the time in, any gear, at any RPM, at any speed. In the beginning it was just at certain RPMs.

Maybe if GM had put more floorboard support some of these vibrations wouldn't be felt at all? Trust me, I thought about having someone do this but just never pulled the trigger.

Edited by 15LTZZ71
Posted

Just dropped off my vehicle for 2nd time at dealer, has 800 miles currently.

 

I had them attach the photo of all the tire marks on my driveway to the service complaint. I'll keep everyone posted, but I fear that this is the beginning of many service trips based on everyone else's experiences.

 

Again I feel like I have 2 separate issues. 1. A steady, low frequency vibration that occurs at 50mph in the steering wheel, and also more severe at 80mph, which also shakes the center console back and forth. 2. A "pulsing vibration" that occurs between 65-70 mostly, which is a higher frequency vibration that feels like driving over rumble strips...but comes and goes in 1 second intervals. This vibration is felt mainly in the gas pedal.

Posted

Took my 2014 Lt back to the shop yesterday. They took it for a 6 mile ride with nothing but a teçt 2 in hand took a few snap shots and said that my herts readings was 0 to 10 and ten is the highest level within GM spects. They haven't checked any runouts on anything. I watch every move while my truck is in the shop and no one has ever even looked under my truck. Then I'm told that it is my responsibility to get a GM rep involved that he cannot do this. I have been trying to resolve this for 12000 miles. Does anybody have any ideas about who I need to contact? I have a GM case number but all this has got me is a phone call every Friday at 4pm asking me how my truck is doing for the last 5 weeks!

Read my signature, and speak to a lawyer. Good luck and keep us updated.

Posted

 

Hey 14silverado4.3,

I'm sorry to hear about this concern. Have you considered taking your truck into your dealership? I can look into this further for you, if you would private message me with your VIN, contact info, current mileage and preferred dealership.

 

Anisha T

GM Customer Care

Can't you forward all these complaints to the proper authorities and upper management so they can find the problem????

  • Like 4
Posted

From the first paragraph describing these Goodyear tires that come on 2014 Silverado, on TireRack.com:

 

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Wrangler+SR-A

 

"The Wrangler SR-A is Goodyear’s Highway All-Season tire developed for the drivers of pickup trucks, crossovers and sport utility vehicles. Extensively used as Original Equipment on a wide range of popular light trucks, the Wrangler SR-A is available in a comprehensive range of 15” through 20” rim diameter sizes. The Wrangler SR-A is designed to reduce noise, vibration and ride harshness while providing all-season traction, even on gravel roads and in light snow."

 

The Wrangler SR-A is designed to reduce noise, VIBRATION, and ride harshness? Are you kidding me?

 

Did GM know they built vibrating trucks and try to cover it all up with mushy soft tires that need replacement after 10k miles?

Posted

From the first paragraph describing these Goodyear tires that come on 2014 Silverado, on TireRack.com:

 

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Wrangler+SR-A

 

"The Wrangler SR-A is Goodyear’s Highway All-Season tire developed for the drivers of pickup trucks, crossovers and sport utility vehicles. Extensively used as Original Equipment on a wide range of popular light trucks, the Wrangler SR-A is available in a comprehensive range of 15” through 20” rim diameter sizes. The Wrangler SR-A is designed to reduce noise, vibration and ride harshness while providing all-season traction, even on gravel roads and in light snow."

 

The Wrangler SR-A is designed to reduce noise, VIBRATION, and ride harshness? Are you kidding me?

 

Did GM know they built vibrating trucks and try to cover it all up with mushy soft tires that need replacement after 10k miles?

 

Yeah now read the user comments on these tires at the site. You'll find a ton of un-satisfied customers.

  • Like 1
Posted

Are these Wrangler tires specifically used on the C/K 1500 pickups only? Wondering if anyone has done any research as to whether or not other full size GM vehicles use the same tires and are experiencing the same vibration issues?

 

My 97' came standard with the Wrangler RT/S and I got 45K miles out them. Then I went through 3 sets of Wrangler TD's and still got at least 40K miles out of each set. I thought they were one hell of a set of good tires.

 

Wondering what the current country of origin is on these Wrangler SR-A tires?

Posted (edited)

Are these Wrangler tires specifically used on the C/K 1500 pickups only? Wondering if anyone has done any research as to whether or not other full size GM vehicles use the same tires and are experiencing the same vibration issues?

 

My 97' came standard with the Wrangler RT/S and I got 45K miles out them. Then I went through 3 sets of Wrangler TD's and still got at least 40K miles out of each set. I thought they were one hell of a set of good tires.

 

Wondering what the current country of origin is on these Wrangler SR-A tires?

well there is no denying the dealer tires are all crap and much lower quality then the retail versions of the same brand tires you buy at the store but the vibration issues are not the tires and depending on where you are in the country about half the trucks use goodyears and the other half use the bridgestones and both have equal representations of truck vibration issues.

 

that said, they ask for bids for the cheapest crappy tires at the lowest prices to put on the trucks they sell today, so manufacturers just don't care anymore, its all about saving a dime at the customers expense.

Edited by keakar
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I purchased a regular cab-short box 2014 Sierra in late September. The dealer has had the vehicle ever since due to vibration issues above 68 mph. Dealer has replaced tires, wheels, shocks, balanced the drive-shaft, and now is replacing the ring & pinion gears. He is sure this will correct the issue...I sure hope so.

Edited by goodbye-gm
Posted

The first step is to contact the DMA (District Manager After-sales) and ask for assistance which can be in the form of trade assistance or buy back. A good Service Manager will do that for you. The DMA normally does not communicate directly with customers.

Exactly what I did when I got rid of my first shakerado. I couldn't be happier with my second.
  • Like 1
Posted

I purchased a regular cab-short box 2014 Sierra in late September. The dealer has had the vehicle ever since due to vibration issues above 68 mph. Dealer has replaced tires, wheels, shocks, balanced the drive-shaft, and now is replacing the ring & pinion gears. He is sure this will correct the issue...I sure hope so.

Good luck. Trust me, u and everyone that has the shakes has my sympathy. I'm glad I got a second that's smooth. I'm wondering if the wind at higher speeds going in between the bed and outer quarter paneling is causing the body panels to have a harmonic shake just like lowering one of your rear windows?
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...