Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Did you put the clamps in front of or behind the axel, and how far? I have my clamps 5" in front of the block and they didn't improve anything for me. Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

About 8" behind. I went back far enough to put pressure on the over load thus using part of its spring weight.

I figured up close to the u-bolts would do pretty much nothing.

 

I have seen a lot of factory leaf packs with these clamps. They are typically near the leaf hanger, no where near the u-bolts. Since we only have two leafs I thought it would be best to turn the over load into a leaf spring. No idea how it will effect towing yet.

 

__________________________________________________________

 

My truck shook before and after the leveling kit. It had no impact.

The 2 local dealers never said a word about the leveling kit.

Edited by frenchsquared
Posted (edited)

I put the clamps 3 1/4 inches in front of the blocks as a starting point and it helped so much I'am afraid to move them. Wondering what it would do with clamps in front and behind the blocks would do.

Edited by southern_sierra
  • Like 1
Posted

I tried the clamps behind the blocks 8 inches made my ride worst than before any clamps. I put them back in front of the blocks 4 inches and the ride is much better for me.

Posted

I just tried the clamps with my truck. I put them 4" in front of the block. Its feels a little bit better but not much. The vibration starts for me around 61MPH. I had the vibration before the lift kit and after the lift kit. The new wheels/tires didn't help any, everything is exactly the same. Sucks!

Posted

I finally fixed my vibrations today. I traded my 2014 Vibrator for a 2106 F150. I really do feel for all you guys dealing with this. I just couldn't take it anymore. My dealer wouldn't even try.

 

I guess I need to change my screen name now.

  • Like 1
Posted

I finally fixed my vibrations today. I traded my 2014 Vibrator for a 2106 F150. I really do feel for all you guys dealing with this. I just couldn't take it anymore. My dealer wouldn't even try.

 

I guess I need to change my screen name now.

You're a former ferd guy who is now a Chevy guy but now is a ferd guy again? And you traded for a truck that won't be available for another 100 years? 2106?

  • Like 1
Posted

You're a former ferd guy who is now a Chevy guy but now is a ferd guy again? And you traded for a truck that won't be available for another 100 years? 2106?

Thank god you caught my typo.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Thank me, God and Louis Chevrolet! Or in your world, good Lord Mister Ford!

Edited by steelcity
  • Like 1
Posted

You're a former ferd guy who is now a Chevy guy but now is a ferd guy again? And you traded for a truck that won't be available for another 100 years? 2106?

 

90 years. Lol :lol:

  • Like 1
Posted

I wanted to believe the vibration was gone. I've driven truck a couple weeks and overall the vibration is better but its still there. An new rear end was installed to replace the defective rear end that was installed and new tires installed to replace defective tires that were installed. The vibration that's bothering me is in the steering wheel and has been there almost from day 1. The above fixes basically has put truck back to square 1.

I think that GM is looking in the wrong place for a solution. This thread is full of tires, drive shafts and rear end replacement and some times there are positive results but I think the problem is motor transmission related. In my case driving 80kph is just awful until I put it in M5. Why IMHO... the engine is laboring because of the high gear and then add AFM it becomes a vibrating mess. At freeway speeds 115kph+ all is well until the AFM kicks in. AFM starts the vibrations but, it doesn't go away when AFM shuts off, I have to change speeds for it to go away. This has probably got something to do with harmonics, resonance or something like that.

Another observation is the vibration is worse in wet weather. Maybe the motor is just running like a POS due to ignition stuff and shaking the truck. I've mentioned to the dealer that I don't think motor is running right but they plug it in and the diagnostics say otherwise. Basically the dealer has my truck in the working as designed category. I'm at a loss if I should just live with this and drive my automatic like a standard and pay big dollars to disable AFM.

Frustrating that a $63k truck works this way comments appreciated.

  • Like 1
Posted

When i get home i am going to take mine to the dealer.

 

I bought my 2014 silverado double cab about 9months ago used off a dealer lot. Thought i got a good deal on it and am content with the truck.

 

It didn't even make it home when i got it when i went to a tire shop... Got a level installed and 33s.

 

Well slowly but surely ive been noticing the vibration..... It geta pretty noticeable at about 75ish.

 

Here is the thing.... I bought it used.... It has just over 50K miles on it..... I got it from a dealership. With my level and tires is there anything that can be done?

 

I don't have my stock tires anymore :(

 

 

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

Posted

I originally posted back around the 17th of Dec. Thought I should update. The dealership I bought my truck from has now had it over 3 weeks. They've run the pico tests and "determined" it's the tires. They had a GMC expert (yeah right) come in and review all the data and he ordered another set of tires in that "would fix the problem, guaranteed". I'm not holding my breath. I've called twice to get the brand of tire only to be BS'ed. It's supposed to be ready Monday. I don't know what route I'll take if this isn' fied this time. BTW, 5th time in, 3rd time for over a week.

Posted

I've had my 2015 LTZ 6.2 CC 4x4 since May 2015, have about 13k miles on it. I've been driving Chevy's and GMC's since 1975. I have to say this is the smoothest and tightest truck I've ever owned. But, when driving on roads with traction grooves scribed in the surface I do get some road feel vibration in the cab. I also feel the tar stripes between concrete sections, surface cracks and such which in the past I have always considered normal. However, when on good road surface, especially asphalt, this truck is "smooth as a gravy sandwich" to quote Crocodile Dundee. But, the comments on this forum Has me wondering and confused frankly, what the level of expectation is? In other words, do others consider what I'm experiencing as normal and acceptable as a problem? Would be interested in feedback from other posters.

Posted

In April of 2015 I traded my 2013 Silverado Z71 crew cab in on a GMC Sierra All Terrain Crew Cab with a standard bed. On my way home from the dealership there was a VERY noticeable vibration from 45-55 miles per hour, and also a vibration at higher speeds(65+). I asked the dealership about the issue and they said the truck may just have flat spots on the tires from sitting on the lot. Told me to drive it a while and see if the problem corrects itself. I didn't argue, however, I could tell and knew that it was in the drivetrain and not in the tires. Upon bringing my truck back for it's first service I brought the vibration issue back up to the dealership and the still blamed the tires. Again, I didn't argue, allowing them to balance, or in my case unbalance all my tires. Apparently, their machine was out of calibration. I was on my way out of town upon completion of service and did not notice they were that far out of balance until I was quite a ways from the dealership. My trip from the dealership was only about two hours to my destination so I continued on and would just take it to a dealership in the area where I was headed. So, after driving for two hours on unbalanced tires and feeling what that feels like there was no question in my mind that my original vibration concern was definitely NOT in the tires. The other dealership re-balanced my tires and didn't address my original vibration concerns. I didn't say anything figuring I'd just get the run around from them too. Anyway, the vibration in the drivetrain was still evident. I talked to my father who has a 2014 Sierra Crew Cab 2WD short box. He said he has the same issue and definitely agreed with me that it is in the drivetrain. About a month and a half ago my dad, a very close family friend, and myself had to run and errand in my truck. The vibration at 50mph was very noticeable that day so, I asked the family friend(retired mechanic and GM mechanic for many, many years). He immediately said it was definitely in the drivetrain and said it felt like a torque issue. Meaning that the drivetrain was creating maximum torque for the gear it was in(overdrive and V4) creating the vibration. He recommended to me shimming the transmission to change the angle of the drive shaft. He said he has had the same vibration issues while building many cars throughout his years and said the shimming was the first place to start. So, I started digging into the issue further and landed here. I read many of the comments here to try and confirm or find a solution. Doesn't seem to be one though. I have yet to try shimming, but am seriously considering trying it after my latest visit to the dealership. While at the dealership for another issue on Thursday I asked the service manager if GM has found a fix for the drivetrain issue and he stated there was nothing that could be done to fix the issue.(FINALLY, A DEALERSHIP ADMITTING THAT THE VIBRATION IS IN THE DRIVETRAIN). He said to me that the issue was with the truck going into V4 creating the vibration. I'm still not satisfied with that answer because I stated to him my 2013 Z71 Crew Cab would go into V4 mode and I didn't experience any vibration issue with that truck. He really didn't have a good answer for that going onto blame the gov't standards set for the issue.

Well, I'm hesitant to modifying my truck by shimming it due to possibly voiding my warranty. However, I may just do it anyway and remove the shims prior to taking it in with any future major warranty issues. I love the truck other than the annoying vibration and don't see myself getting rid of it because of that, but as a long time GM truck owner I am disappointed GM would release vehicles with this type of issue being they've been the smoothest riding vehicles on the road for many years.

I will let everyone know if the shimming does the trick when I'm able to get to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...