Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Tbh i miss my red and silver jeeps. I love not seeing dirt after driving my truck 10 feet out of my driveway after detailing it...

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 7/9/2020 at 7:38 PM, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

Tonight was a brighter LED 3rd brake light.

Brighter HID bulbs.

Changed my halogen front turn signals to LEDs and wired in resistors to get rid of hyper flashing. Talk about tight spaces and wiring harness tabs that do not want to release.....grrr

That's all I could handle in 95 degree heat working on a black truck. Everything I touched was burning!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

How many resistors did you use for the front? Thanks 

Posted
19 hours ago, 14HighCountry said:

How many resistors did you use for the front? Thanks 

Not to hijack his reply, but I used 50w 6 ohm resisters for my LED tails and switchback front blinkers. Pretty sure that's standard for most applications. Be sure to mount them to metal, they get hot!

Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, Chewy21 said:


oof swirl city 

Ha lol it’s not a show truck so its all good, plus my wheels stick out so it only stays clean for a few days then back to being dirty af ? but while it’s clean it looks badass ? 

Edited by Frankielozano214
  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/13/2020 at 9:20 PM, UofAZCats said:

Yesterday I put on half of a Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) kit.  My truck is lowered by 2 inches in front and 4 inches in the rear with a flip on the rear.  It took some figuring but I finally found a way to install with the flip kit.  Got the driver side installed but the passenger side got held up by a shackle bolt that I could not get off with hand tools.  The original installer must have used an impact wrench and the damn thing is on so tight that I almost stripped the head trying to get it off before I wisely stopped and put that side back as it was without  the RAS.

 

 

Got the other half of the RAS installed and everything cranked down tight.  The back end sits almost an inch higher than before the install and so instead of being level it now has a rake to it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, UofAZCats said:

Got the other half of the RAS installed and everything cranked down tight.  The back end sits almost an inch higher than before the install and so instead of being level it now has a rake to it. 

any noticeable difference while driving?

 

Posted

Had the vacuum pump replaced under special coverage and the rear pinion seal replaced under power train warranty on my 2016.

3a8d1c40a0b8cea99f1f3b4a36b8434e.jpg

Posted

Made a custom fuse/relay panel for my behind the grill light bar and any future upgrades. Mounted it in the spare battery tray. Hopefully gonna get the light bar put in tomorrow. More pics to follow.
e52fdea291e0895eefe2f50a7f3a2d7e.jpg
2220112a01d0752ee705368f33f414a4.jpg
df963e9febf0ef847beed0fed1e05504.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 5
Posted
21 hours ago, doubeleive said:

any noticeable difference while driving?

 

I have noticed a slight reduction in sway while cornering and do feel like it was gripping better on starts.  I have towed or hauled anything which is one of the primary areas you are supposed to see a benefit.  That said I am probably going to take them off though.  I have my truck lowered and I had to figure out a way to mount since the standard mounting method wouldn't work.  Doing what I did has introduced a vibration at lower speeds that cancels out any benefit.  That plus the extra inch it added in height to my rear which re-introduced a rake I don't want mean I will be taking them off.  I think I can make them work in the future without the vibration by making some modifications to my flip kit for the vibration problem and finding a shorter drop shackle to help with the height issue.  I need to find a machine shop for the flip kit issue.  I think if I can just have an additional hole drilled on one part I can fix the vibration issue.  Finding a shorter drop shackle actually looks like the tougher issue to address at this point.

Posted

Productive weekend.  Got new tires put on (ridge grapplers 275/60r20), swapped the stock SLT grille for a Denali grille and got the range AFM device put in8EB33DFE-6925-41BC-9575-85130E61E924.thumb.jpeg.0fa189954a8c0339ebbe747b2addf204.jpeg0A5ADF16-63F3-46A7-8905-CD18B3593CC6.thumb.jpeg.ff3c90c61977d28b48aed4af5b4bf523.jpeg6B3DCEA2-A665-4836-B36F-BC5AFB9F3768.thumb.jpeg.884fbc691f73c2ad225592559eacd5d6.jpeg

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...