Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Just picked up my new 14 last Friday (5 days ago) and have had multiple occurrences where the truck will not start.

The typical scenario has been like this:

 

1. Attempt remote start either by key fob or the OnStar remote link app. If using the key fob, the parking lights flash to indicate that the remote start request was received but the truck does not start. If using the OnStar app, I receive an error message that the truck could not be started.

 

2. Attempt to start the truck using the key and...click.click.

 

3. Get out of truck, throw something, say a few four letter words

 

4. Try again with the key and it magically starts.

 

The new software was loaded in the truck as I was in the process of negotiation during the recall and had to wait for the update to come out before the dealer could deliver.

 

I went straight to the dealer yesterday morning after this happened and they have no explanation to what the cause is. They reprogrammed the keys/fobs. I also was carrying my 2nd set of keys in the console, which they suggested could be the cause of the problem??

 

So I took the spare set of keys out of the truck and crossed my fingers. No such luck however as it happened again this morning.

 

Anybody else experiencing anything like this?

 

 

Edited by MotoMedic
Added Topic Tags
Posted

Are you in a cold climate? there have been reports of a flapper valve in the exhaust system that freezes shut that causes no start issues.

 

It is embedded in the exhaust i think near the front by the catalytic converters. A few taps with a wrench seems to unstick it and people have been able to start up as normal.

Posted

I've had hesitant starts with mine, but its the first time I have ran E85. I wonder if thats my problem? I will switch back to regular fuel once this tank runs out.

Posted

Are you in a cold climate? there have been reports of a flapper valve in the exhaust system that freezes shut that causes no start issues.

 

It is embedded in the exhaust i think near the front by the catalytic converters. A few taps with a wrench seems to unstick it and people have been able to start up as normal.

 

I read about the flapper but that seemed to be related to a hard starting situation where the starter was actually cranking the engine. In my case, it could be described as a starter solenoid that is going bad. The starter doesn't even engage.

Posted

I've had hesitant starts with mine, but its the first time I have ran E85. I wonder if thats my problem? I will switch back to regular fuel once this tank runs out.

Remember that E85 is 85% ethanol and ethanol is very hygroscopic (absorbs water). So there could be some water on the bottom of your tank causing hard starting.

Posted

Hey chelmer,


I’m sorry to hear that you are experiencing problems while trying to start your vehicle. I’m glad to hear that you took your vehicle to your dealership to be serviced, but understand that you are still having the same problem. I would like to look further into your concern. Can you please private message me your full name, phone number, VIN, current mileage, and involved dealership? Thank you.

 

Kristen A.

GM Customer Care

Posted (edited)

Hey chelmer,

 

Im sorry to hear that you are experiencing problems while trying to start your vehicle. Im glad to hear that you took your vehicle to your dealership to be serviced, but understand that you are still having the same problem. I would like to look further into your concern. Can you please private message me your full name, phone number, VIN, current mileage, and involved dealership? Thank you.

 

Kristen A.

GM Customer Care

Sent

Edited by chelmer
  • Like 1
Posted

Similar problems again this morning. Wouldn't start with OnStar nor the key fob. It was about -3 this morning, sure would be nice to have a warm truck to get into.

It's beginning to appear that after the truck has sat overnight or for an extended period of time, maybe temperature related, is when I have these problems.

 

This is not a battery issue, the battery is strong. When it finally does crank it does so just fine.

 

This morning the electric power steering wasn't helping much either. Very stiff.

 

A week ago I was pee my pants anxious to get this new truck. Today, I wish I never did. :banghead:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Experiencing the exact same issues with my new 2014 Sierra. Only picked it up yesterday. Not impressed.

 

OnStar Remotelink works to unlock/lock, but when I tried to start it this morning I got an error. Tried with both key fobs, and it did not start. Finally I went outside to try to start it with the key and experienced the 'click, click' issue. Dash was all lit up. I tried a few more times, got out, swore profusely, then remembered that the salesperson said something about key cycles. I figured maybe while I was messing with the remotelink I overdid it and had to lock/unlock a few times or something.

 

That didn't work either. I finally got it to attempt a turnover and got a 'Low Battery' warning on the display. So now it's plugged in. The temp here is -22C today. I never plugged in my old vehicle (the one I traded in for this one) and didn't have any issues.

 

Needless to say I'm not impressed so far, which is a shame considering the sales staff and everything up to this point has been top notch.

 

The internet tells me that it might be a frozen exhaust vent, or it might be a greasy selenoid. When it finally starts again, I'll be taking it directly to the dealership, because this is unacceptable.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I recently encountered this problem with my 2010. It might be related. In extreme cold conditions sometimes when I tried to start it the lights would turn on nice and bright like normal but when I hit the remote start..nothing. Get inside turn the key...nothing. Go home to get something to boost it, before I hook it up I try it again. Starts right up. Did this to me a couple of times over a two week period. Then one morning it was in my unheated garage and I think it was about -20 below outside and this time it would not start at all. The dealer came and towed it to the shop and before it had time to warm up they tried it and you guessed it,...fired right up. They checked everything out, put it on the charger all day. Started up every time they tried it. They said they couldn't figure it out so they sent me home to see if it did it again. Next morning just as cold and sure enough wouldn't start. They towed it back and again it started on its own with no boost. They checked some other things, checked the battery. Battery was fine. No codes would show. Finally towards the end of the day a "low voltage" code came up. They ended up putting a new battery in it and so far its been starting every time even with the temps hanging around -10. So GMs are far back as 2010 must have some type of low voltage relay system that prevents them from attempting to turn over whenever it detects a slightly lower voltage than normal. So you may have a faulty battery. Tell them to try that.

Posted (edited)

The dealer will tell you to click your key back and forth ten times to heat up the condensation in the starter, from it being built in Mexico. It happened to me once, and hasn't happened again. I swear I'm driving a truck from the 70's.. Oh wait, they are more reliable.

Edited by VMaxtastic
Posted (edited)

The members of this forum really need to start posting videos to YouTube of all their multitude of truck issues. I guarantee if folks bark loud enough GM will get these issues resolved as to avoid a PR nightmare.

 

It's not like you are spending $8000 on some Chinese import. When you're spending $40,000 to $50,000+ on a NEW truck from a company that has been in business for 100 years, you should be buying RELIABILITY first and foremost. Isn't that the reason the majority of us opt to purchase NEW?

Edited by 97SierraSLT
  • Like 1
Posted

I believe my issue has been resolved. Tomorrow will be one week that I have had the truck back after the dealer replaced the starter and, I think, a battery cable. It has started every time. It has been sub zero temp..no prob. Prior to this it was almost like clockwork. Leave the truck in the cold long enough and it wouldn't start. The dealer told me that GM was aware of this issue and suggested what parts to replace. Hopefully they have, via a TSB or other media, gotten the word out to their dealer network. I've seen so many people on here that take it to the dealer, and nothing gets done because the dealer can't replicate the problem.

Posted

Same thing here. August build date (8/13).

 

Picked up truck Monday night. Tuesday morning (-12 degrees outside) nothing but a click from the starter. It took about 10 times with the key (battery was strong). Called and made an appointment for Wednesday for service. Parked in the sun at work (about 16 out in the afternoon) - remote start got about 1-2 turns then stopped. Turned over on the first try with the key. Wednesday morning, about 5-10 degrees outside, it took about 15 attempts with the key from the inside before it started.

 

They swapped out the starter with an updated one per my request. (pn 12655055 B-(S) starter). Started great this morning and this afternoon using the remote started.

Posted (edited)

The members of this forum really need to start posting videos to YouTube of all their multitude of truck issues. I guarantee if folks bark loud enough GM will get these issues resolved as to avoid a PR nightmare.

 

It's not like you are spending $8000 on some Chinese import. When you're spending $40,000 to $50,000+ on a NEW truck from a company that has been in business for 100 years, you should be buying RELIABILITY first and foremost. Isn't that the reason the majority of us opt to purchase NEW?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iixUm13Opj0

 

I uploaded mine. It didnt take as long to start as it normally does, but shows it smoking. It also usually smokes more than this, but the truck was running a few hours before.

 

Only mods done to the truck are, cut out the exhaust flapper, and installed a FloPro muffler

Edited by VMaxtastic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...