Jump to content

Rust Prevention

thepewterpooter

Recommended Posts

thepewterpooter Enthusiast

thepewterpooter

Posted
Posted

Hi new to the forum! I bought a 02 GMC sierra z71 extended cab about 3 yrs ago. I looked the truck over and it was spotless then all of a sudden after this brutal winter we had (from Ohio in the rust belt) little bubbles appeared in the passenger rocker panel just at the very back. I know these trucks are known for rusting in these areas but when I got under the truck not a spec of rust .... I am assuming it's rusting inside out. has anyone else had this issue and what can be done to stop the rust if I cant find the source of it? truck only has 80k on it so would hate to let it just rust away . any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

TJMaine Enthusiast

TJMaine

Posted
Posted

Mine are bubbling in a few places... I intend on stripping paint off my rockers in a few months, cutting and patching any rust through, ... chip guarding and painting the rockers, then spraying oil/fluid film inside them to stop and prevent further rusting.

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
Posted

Only prevention is wax, washes (underside too), keep it clean, park indoors, and you should probably go to a body shop

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
Posted

We just did a job like this too. A 97 sierra 1500 reg cab. Took the bed off, cut off the rust on cab corners and replaced the metal. Fixed door rust too on bottom inside. Took doors off cut rust out, sanded, put new metal in, bondo, and bedlined below molding

unit731 Senior Enthusiast

unit731

Posted
Posted

Anyone with an older vehicle should have the car/truck treated annually.

 

Either:

 

Fluid Film

or

Oil undercoating.

 

Done by a professional shop that specializes in this treatment.

 

I live in snow/road salt country.

 

My 18 year old car has zero rust. Treated every year.

SG Lou Enthusiast

SG Lou

Posted
Posted

The body on my 03 Silverado is still pretty much rust free. My concern is the frame area towards the rear. I already replaced brake lines and leaf spring shackles due to rust. Other then using the Por 15 stuff is there anything else i can spray on there to slow the rust down? I was thinking of just scrapping the rusted areas and undercoating. Any ideas and suggestions greatly appreciated !

Lou

  • 1 month later...
HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

Fluid film works great. Buy the 1 gallon can . Spray or brush it on once a year and you'll be set. You can even apply it to rusty metal. It seeps into the rust until it reaches good steel.

  • 3 weeks later...
Gmborn&raised Enthusiast

Gmborn&raised

Posted
Posted

You can buy rust proofing wax from any body shop supply company it works great spray it in every place you can it will seal any welded or folded seams and doesn't wash off

  • 4 weeks later...
2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

I use Fluid Film on everything EXCEPT the wax coated frame. Fluid Film will dissolve the OEM black wax coating. I have zero rust anywhere on the truck.

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

The factory wax does more to help rust the frame than it does to prevent it. The wax is already peeling off any edges on the frame by the time it's delivered to the dealer. Water and salt seep under the cheap wax, which then goes to work on the steel. This is why we're seeing trucks on the lot with rust bubbling up under the wax. Honestly I'd prefer it if GM would leave the frame bare or just lightly oiled so I could give it a proper coat of POR-15.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
    • asilverblazer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I had an alternator fail that was shorted internally in such a direct fashion in addition to the larger gauge cables that it appeared like a VERY dead battery. Granted I think the car did power up, it definitely wouldn't start.   Rodent damage to wiring?
    • asilverblazer
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      ... I don't think he could.
    • asilverblazer
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Using experience to justify bad advice is lazy and typical of someone incapable of articulating why their advice is prudent.    This immediately sets off the BS alert and the advice that followed certainly qualified.   Asking an idiot for help getting out of dumb situations because he is an expert... at getting himself into dumb situations.   Unless I've been living in an alternate universe - the first thing everyone does when getting into a sticky situation is shift to a higher gear 🤨.   Of course not, the torque multiplication, mechanical advantage and finer control typically afforded by the lower gear is far better suited for this scenario.   There ARE scenarios where a higher gear MIGHT be appropriate determined more by the drivers ability to control EXCESSIVE wheel spin versus applying torque to the ground.
    • Atlas
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Atlas · Posted

      I'm not sure I agree with "extreme" low speed, high torque sentiment here with regards to the prescribed use of low range. How about...whenever it's needed?   A 2.72:1 transfer case and whatever differential gears these Silverados have (3.42's, maybe?) aren't producing "extremely" low crawl speeds. Or insanely high torque multiplication. Even with the 1st gear in these newer transmissions. But it does provide mechanical advantage and potentially better control at slower speeds. And with extra weight or towing, I think it adds mechanical sympathy for the truck as well.   Plus, traction control and the other assists generally turn off when you shift into low range. Those aren't needed here, they'll work against you if you need wheel spin. In high range you'll need to figure out how to turn off the various modes those assists provide. Depending on the vehicle, those things don't all automatically turn off or turn completely off.   While I agree that a farmer might have some great practical experience, a recommendation to "always" using one gear isn't very informed advice. If the farmer had said WHY and could explain the physics behind his prescriptive "always" I'd definitely listen. The way he's described here makes it sounds like he could either be uninformed or is telling everyone what worked for him, not necessarily that there could be a more advantageous way about things.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...