Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Truck started to make a squeaking noise this weekend, took it to the dealership on Monday. Dealership called Tuesday and said that they could not find anything wrong with the truck and that this sound is normal. Take a look at this video so that you can hear and understand what I am talking about.  https://youtu.be/aERzjGAX-aU

Does this sound normal to you guys? I also put water on the belt and the noise was persistent so it does not appear to be the belt. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Posted

WOW, Im thinking you need to take this to another dealer. That sounds quite obvious and no way that is normal. My last  2 trucks I had had over 200k and none of them had sounds that were that bad.

  • Like 2
Posted

X2. Definitely not normal. Either the tech that inspected your truck was deaf, or they didn’t want to chase down the noise. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Take it back to the dealer and leave it idling while you go get the service writer and let him hear it. If he's anything other than an knucklehead he will know that is not a normal sound that your truck should make.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

My 2015 Sierra had that same exact issue...dealer also could "not" find anything wrong with it. At one point they even changed out the thermostat? Thinking that would address the issue. They knew there was an issue, otherwise why change the thermostat? But at the end, that dealer just chased me away telling me "you still have warranty, just drive the thing until something breaks." 

  • Like 1
Posted

FYI  My friend who lives in FL has either a 2011 or 2012, no warranty and about 120,000 had a squeaking noise in the engine.  Both he and I listened and could really not hear the source. He took it to his trusted mechanic who after replacing the belt and checking all, found it was coming from internally inside the engine.   $6000 and a new crate engine later the noise was gone. He is happy with the new engine.

  • Like 1
Posted

My engine had the exact same noise... Dealer heard the sound as well.. Left it with them for a week and they could not get it to repeat... Still no solution but it has not been making the noise recently at all.. I recorded it as well. Hope you find out something as I am nervous about how they will respond later after initial bumper to bumper is out.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

In my friends case,  my guess is a bearing with low or no oil flow but  he was able to drive and get back home.  IF it was mine I would have had the old engine torn down enough to see what it was.

 

Added:  BUT his noise was not the same as video. It was a squeal like a bearing without lube.

Edited by wmgeorge64
  • Like 1
Posted

I want to guess that it might be an idler pulley or tensioner. Put a shot of lubricant on them and see if the noise quiets for a bit.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

Hello my truck just started doing this as well it’s a 2016 Sierra 5.3 with 23,000 miles i was doing some looking and saw this post. I was just wondering if you ever figured out what the problem was or what I need to do? Thanks in advance 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

If you think its coming from the belt or the idler pulley . Pull the belt and start it to see if the noise is there !

 

Posted

Just a thought do you guys have exhaust with flapper removed or tied open? My truck don’t sound like that but more of a cricket sound Dealer said it’s the after market exhaust from no restrictions on the exhaust. Not that I fully believe that but maybe so idk. Just a thought


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I would check the idler pulley as Badge171 said. They are not to expensive to replace but they Will blowout all kinds of parts if it gives out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...