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Hope this helps anyone that runs into this. My original battery died and I changed it out yesterday. After the change my AC was not operating correctly. I surfed the forums and found all sorts of fixes like pulling fuses and disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. None worked. I then notice that the outside temp on the intellilink screen is showing 36 degrees. Figuring it reset to Celsius (I’m in Texas so that is a logical centigrade reading for us) I checked settings and found it was set to F.
Buried in a forum about calibrating the temp gauge I found a GM service bulletin that says after a battery dies you need to drive the car at least 5 minutes over 20 mph for the temp gauge to calibrate; or let the car sit off for 8 hours. I drove the car down the highway and this worked like a charm.
When the outside temp is showing 36 degrees, it is basically telling the ac compressor not to come on and sending heat to the car. Not a lot of fun in 95+ heat in Texas.
On a side note why why is there no documentation that this is the norm? I called the dealer to have a girl laugh at me and tell me the car “has” to have a lot of things reset after a battery swap...and they want $155. Which was basically corrected with 5 minutes of driving.
Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com
General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles:
2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade
NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles.
The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash.
The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them.
GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782.
If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately.
As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications.
NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
As the title states, I have a 2004 Suburban, 1500 with the 5.3L and it's a 4x4. The AC keeps blowing the 10A fuse.
A few weeks back the family and I were driving a few hours away in the car. I stopped halfway(but didn't turn off the car) to fill up with gas and grab snacks. When I came back in I noticed the AC wasn't cold, but all the blowers were going and the light was on the dash. I popped the hood and noticed the compressor wasn't going, so I checked the fuses and found that 10amp AC fuse was blown. I replaced it with a 15 amp(only one I had) and finished the drive down. For the rest of the day it kept blowing the fuse, and I eventually worked up to a 30amp fuse in order to make it home. I know that's bad but it was hot and I have a newborn so no AC for 2 hours wasn't really an option.
At home, I found this thread(that's pasted below). Seems like the exact same problem, so I went ahead and replaced the AC clutch earlier this week. Mind you everything appears to be working 100% normal. When I pop a new fuse in, the AC pump works and the AC is ice cold. After replacing the AC clutch, it's blowing the fuses again.
I'm not really sure where to look or where to start for fixing this issue. It just randomly started happening. Maybe it's a wire that's shorting out? The only semi-consistent thing I notice is that if the car is running, and I put in a new fuse, it won't blow unless I drive it AND put it back in park. Driving for hours its fine. Only once I put it in park it seems to blow then.
At my wits end. Any ideas? The only thing I can think is the wiring to the clutch compressor is shorting out somewhere intermittently. Thank you for any suggestions!!
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