Jump to content

Lifters & Cam Need Replacing

Melks
 Share

Recommended Posts

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
Posted

So this week I brought my truck into the dealership because of a ticking and squealing sound mostly when the engine was cold. After touching base with the service advisor the following day he notified me that the truck needs lifters and a cam. Parts have been ordered (5-7 days) and they will be doing the repair under warranty. 

 

The truck only has 69,000km (5.3L) and it doesn't take a beating. I get 13L/100km mileage. Thankfully the truck is still under warranty (5 year/160,000km), but I find it odd that the cam shaft needs to be replaced on the truck at this point.

 

Anyone else dealt with a similar issue at this stage in their trucks life? 

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

If the AFM lifter collapse, it can put pressure on the pushrod and damage a cam lobe. You are lucky they are changing the camshaft too, makes me wonder how many just get new lifters put in the top end then kicked out the door without ever even looking at the bottom end. 

 

Pretty sad state of affairs but what can we do? EPA regulates GM and all automakers into reinventing the wheel every 2-3 years so we get unproven and unreliable technologies to meet their ridiculous demands. Who ends up paying for all this crap on the long haul? The consumer of course. Have to keep that snowball economy growing until it cant anymore. 

Kylebr1 Enthusiast

Kylebr1

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Melks said:

So this week I brought my truck into the dealership because of a ticking and squealing sound mostly when the engine was cold. After touching base with the service advisor the following day he notified me that the truck needs lifters and a cam. Parts have been ordered (5-7 days) and they will be doing the repair under warranty. 

 

The truck only has 69,000km (5.3L) and it doesn't take a beating. I get 13L/100km mileage. Thankfully the truck is still under warranty (5 year/160,000km), but I find it odd that the cam shaft needs to be replaced on the truck at this point.

 

Anyone else dealt with a similar issue at this stage in their trucks life? 

Pretty common , I would advise having your AFM turned off via hp tuners or equivalent. 

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

If the AFM lifter collapse, it can put pressure on the pushrod and damage a cam lobe. You are lucky they are changing the camshaft too, makes me wonder how many just get new lifters put in the top end then kicked out the door without ever even looking at the bottom end. 

 

Pretty sad state of affairs but what can we do? EPA regulates GM and all automakers into reinventing the wheel every 2-3 years so we get unproven and unreliable technologies to meet their ridiculous demands. Who ends up paying for all this crap on the long haul? The consumer of course. Have to keep that snowball economy growing until it cant anymore. 

Well said. Yea I am lucky my warranty is still good for another 16 months, but I am worried this won't be the end of this matter. After dropping the truck off I didn't hear back for almost 2 days so I called in to follow up and this is what they told me, "Needs lifters and cam". Seems odd for a lightly driven truck and only 69,000km I will let them repair under warranty, and try my best to get something out of GM on this one moving forward. Any suggestions or words of wisdom?

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 minutes ago, Kylebr1 said:

Pretty common , I would advise having your AFM turned off via hp tuners or equivalent. 

Yea the more I read up on this matter the more I am hearing about this option... thanks

the33z33 Enthusiast

the33z33

Posted
Posted

Just from what I've read, getting a Range AFM Disabler or tuning it out like mentioned above helps prolong the life a bit since it's not shutting oil off to some lifters every time it goes into V4 mode. 

 

The only real piece of mind to be had is mechanically... so a DOD delete kit that sports non-AFM lifters and all the block off plates and such that come with. 

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, the33z33 said:

Just from what I've read, getting a Range AFM Disabler or tuning it out like mentioned above helps prolong the life a bit since it's not shutting oil off to some lifters every time it goes into V4 mode. 

 

The only real piece of mind to be had is mechanically... so a DOD delete kit that sports non-AFM lifters and all the block off plates and such that come with. 

I will have to do some research on a tune shop in my area that can get this job done right when the time is right. Or I will have to trade in for a new truck when warranty expire or the issue arises again. Bought this truck new for the first time and the 5 year/160,000km warranty did give me some peace of mind, but 3.5 years in and I didn't see this one coming

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Kylebr1 said:

I have 105,000 km now with AFM turned off and have had zero issues . 

Good to hear. Did you have any lifters replaced in the past?

Kylebr1 Enthusiast

Kylebr1

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, Melks said:

Good to hear. Did you have any lifters replaced in the past?

No engine work at all . 

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Seen some get cams at work.  If the lifter gets stuck right it scores the piss out of the cam, especially if the lifter spins in the retainer.  Roller ain't rolling no more if that happens.     

Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Kylebr1 said:

I have 105,000 km now with AFM turned off and have had zero issues . 

How's your fuel economy with and without AFM?

Kylebr1 Enthusiast

Kylebr1

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

How's your fuel economy with and without AFM?

15.8L per 100 Truck is lifted 4 " on 35s no gears 5.3  6 speed . 

the33z33 Enthusiast

the33z33

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, Kylebr1 said:

15.8L per 100 Truck is lifted 4 " on 35s no gears 5.3  6 speed . 

That's actually not terrible for being lifted on 35s. I hang around 18.2 lowered on 30s with the factory 3.08 gears 6 speed.

 

My range disabler comes in today. Can't wait to finally use my 6th gear and stop driving around in M5 all the time lol.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

My opinion is that the $700 AFM delete kit is not necessary.  Consider this:  Corvettes are sold with the ability for the driver to turn AFM on and off on their own, plus if you put your truck in M5, there is no AFM.  I don't think simply tuning out the AFM or using a Range device will harm anything considering GM already gives you the ability to not have to use V4 mode on the Corvette and anything less than M6 on the trucks.  Blackbear has also been turning off AFM with a tune for years and I don't read about any issues from that.  They've been doing it since AFM was first introduced in 2007.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...