Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a shaker, vibration frustration! First I want to say I have always been a Chevy and GMC truck guy. I used to brag to everyone how I buy a new truck and never need to see my dealer again for service. Well my luck ran out. I have purchased new trucks starting in 1990, then 1997, had a 2001 a 2007 And a 2013. Never anything like this. My problem truck is a 2015 built in Oct. of 2104. It is a crew cab Silverado LT. 5.3 engine. I now have just over 3000 miles on it. Been to the dealer 4 times for the vibration issue. So far I have had 10 new tires put on and 6 new wheels put on it. They won't budge that it is a tire and wheel issue. I'm getting really tired of hearing we road force balanced and Pico Scoped everything and it should be fine this time. I have contacted GM customer service and felt like I was talking to a wall. They try to say it is the road I drive on, I call B.S. My 2013 GMC and the loaner truck I have driven way too much doesn't shake and vibrate on that same highway. I guess I will just have to keep taking it back, what a pain! GM really needs to own up to this issue because they are going to ruin their reputation very soon with me. I also had them tell me the last service (4 new tires and 2 new wheels) should take care of 90% of my vibration! What, I didn't just pay 40 k for a truck that can only be 90% fixed!

Edited by kcgmcblk
  • Like 1
Posted

Should have did a little more research before buying this truck but hopefully Chevy can fix it. Going to drop it off today.

I’ve driven the truck approximately 1000 miles on all types of roads. From 40 to 55 the truck resonates (vibrates), especially when decelerating, and going downhill. The more you drive (warn up the vehicle) the worse the vibration seems to get. I can feel it mostly through the steering wheel but can see the dash and center console vibrating in the truck when it’s really bad. I say resonate because it doesn’t seem to be the tires although I really can’t tell. Never had tires vibrate like this before. When driving highway speeds 60 to 75 the vibration is less noticeable (tolerable) but still happening. Almost seems like the driveshaft is out of balance or a bearing is going bad.

I've read through several reples and different sites has there been any specific cause for this problem or is it different for every truck?

 

 

2014 Chevrolet Silverado Z71, LT Extended Cab, 5.3L, 7k miles

Mine did it exactly between 20 and 30 mph it was like driving on a rumble strip that you could hear and feel . Seemed To be getting worse to and didn't notice it when I bought it . Dealer said it felt like every other truck on there lot and there was nothing they could do basically . Will never own another GM product especially a truck and I've owned many over years . The Silerado was the best looking truck out there but the vibration is unacceptable for me and did nothing but aggravate me every time I drove know matter how hard I tried to ignore it or change my driving habits like breaking late at lights to stay out of the vibration zone 20 to 30 MPH . This thing felt like a tuning fork with wheels lol . Traded it in with less then 6000 miles and took my losses and never looked back . Bought a Ram 1500 and have had for 3 months and 3000 vibration free miles Love this truck and the best decision I ever made .I actually look forward to driving this truck every chance I get .

Rumor has it from what I've read the vibration is from the chassis and suspension being so rigid/stiff so that's why it appears so many different folks have different issues causing vibration .

Posted

So now they tell me I need to go back to 20" wheels. When I bought my truck I spent extra money (lots of it) to get GM Accessory 22" wheels and tires. So after 4 trips to the dealer and numerous new wheels and tires. They day I need to go back to 20" wheels. What have they discontinued all 22" GMC wheels for the Shaker trucks? Is there a bulletin on that?? I really feel If I do go to 20" wheels that will only let them know that its not the wheels and tires. The main reason I went to the 22" wheels was I didn't like any of the factory 20" wheels. I look through most (not all) of these posts on this topic and I see nothing about the diameter of the wheels being an issue. WOW! what next.

Posted

So now they tell me I need to go back to 20" wheels. When I bought my truck I spent extra money (lots of it) to get GM Accessory 22" wheels and tires. So after 4 trips to the dealer and numerous new wheels and tires. They day I need to go back to 20" wheels. What have they discontinued all 22" GMC wheels for the Shaker trucks? Is there a bulletin on that?? I really feel If I do go to 20" wheels that will only let them know that its not the wheels and tires. The main reason I went to the 22" wheels was I didn't like any of the factory 20" wheels. I look through most (not all) of these posts on this topic and I see nothing about the diameter of the wheels being an issue. WOW! what next.

That's pure BS ....putting 20 s isn't going to fix the issue
Posted

My neighbor has same setup on her XL that I do less the wheels. I think there is a difference in ride quality between the 22" and 20" wheels but not something that should ever warrant a service visit/call/complaint.

Posted

So now they tell me I need to go back to 20" wheels. When I bought my truck I spent extra money (lots of it) to get GM Accessory 22" wheels and tires. So after 4 trips to the dealer and numerous new wheels and tires. They day I need to go back to 20" wheels. What have they discontinued all 22" GMC wheels for the Shaker trucks? Is there a bulletin on that?? I really feel If I do go to 20" wheels that will only let them know that its not the wheels and tires. The main reason I went to the 22" wheels was I didn't like any of the factory 20" wheels. I look through most (not all) of these posts on this topic and I see nothing about the diameter of the wheels being an issue. WOW! what next.

 

I have stock 20" shoes on my Denali and it vibrates/buffets/booms. Trip #1 to the dealership had them road force balance the tires. Two were out of spec, corrected and did make for a smoother ride at high speeds, but the boom remains.

  • Single instances of "the boom" at low speeds over bumps [driveways, expansion joints...]; coincides when rear wheels go over the bump; sounds like somebody flicking a 12" subwoofer with their finger; doesn't always happen; slightly more difficult to hear; commonly heard on concrete borders between driveways/lots and roads
  • Repeated instances of "the boom" at speeds of ~65km/h and ~115km/h [~40mph and ~70mph]; not heard at speeds greater than 130km/h [80mph]; this is the "buffeting"; annoying as hell; sounds like driving with rear windows down; sounds like double bass from a heavy metal band using a broken amplifier; 30-70Hz range; not all the time, but most of the time; some road surfaces seem to excite it more than others; can be heard more clearly when ear is facing rear of vehicle; fades in and out; towing doesn't seem to change the behavior; happens with seats up, down or folded.
  • Predominately heard in driver's seat; less so in the passenger seat; difficult to hear boom in 2nd or 3rd row.

My Yukon is a stock 2015i short Denali with the only option being the 2nd row bench. No sunroof. 20" wheels with Continentals. 6.2L/8-speed

I'm anxious to read feedback from OmahaBen who's recent repairs align with "Vibration Analysis, Part 1: Tires" and "Vibration Analysis, Part 2: Driveline"

Posted

20's on my High Country and get the shakes and vibes. No correlation between wheel diameter and vibe issues from what I've seen

Posted

Hey guys, I just bought a 2015 Sierra Z-71 double cab, and I should have looked at this forum prior to buying it. I get pretty bad vibrations in the seats, center console, floor and pedals at 68mph or above. It's harmonical, so it's bad then it's not bad for like 1500ft, then back to horrible. I've contacted my dealer about having the tires road force balanced, but it doesn't seem like that is fixing the issue. I have the 5.3l with the 6 speed transmission, and it came with the 22" wheels and Bridgestone AT Tires. I haven't marked the tires to see if they're slipping, but something is definitely going on, and it's really discouraging. It doesn't seem like anyone has definitively had the issue fixed from the couple pages of what I've read here, and I have to say, my truck is near un-driveable on the highway at this point, it's so irritating. I noticed that the truck has a lot of rake, and it looks like most of them come like that, also the vibration almost feels like a bad u-joint, but if the u-joint was bad it would be doing it while driving around town and probably making noise as well. Just trying to brain storm, I'm at a loss for what it could be - my Tundra never had issues like this and until it gets fixed I guess I'll kind of be missing that truck.

 

Has anyone had any luck getting it fixed, besides the guy that had his whole rear-end worked a couple pages back?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I shared the two links with my service manager and said bring it by and grab your loaner. We will get you straight.

?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by 650h1
Posted

And they still have not fixed it...

 

Dealing with a 2014 with vibrations and now seeing more 2015's pop up with the same issues - GM keeps pumping them out and screwing their dealerships with trying to clean it up...

 

Dealerships probably feel like the clowns with shovels following horses in a parade

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m out of ideas on this truck. 2020 Silverado 1500. 5.3 135,000 miles. Has a p0308 and p050d codes. Smokes From exhaust when cold. Compression test passed. New plugs, wires and coil on cyl 8. Same issue. New coil on 8, no change. Replaced injectors, no change. Bore scope showed oil pooled on the piston after sitting overnight. Pulled head and had machine shop check it out. No cracks. Stem seals looked good, replaced anyways. He also ground valve seats. Put it all back together and still have the same issue. Bore scope shows oil on the piston again. Leaning towards maybe a cracked ring but unsure. Cylinder looked good when the head was off, no scoring or scratches. Any ideas on what else I should look for?  Appreciate the help 
    • Just want to make sure it is covered by Special Coverage N232395310 Evaporative Emission Purge Pump 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom 2.7L L3B ~100k miles I'm getting DTCs P146B and P146F. VIN 3GCPWBEK2MGxxxxxx   I spoke to a person that works at GM and he said it is not covered after checking my VIN.   Is there anyone here who currently works for a GM/Chevrolet dealership and has access to GM Global Warranty Management / Investigate Vehicle History who could explain how the VIN eligibility is determined?   thank you    
    • Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...