Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I went from factory 20's to aftermarket 20's am i pissing into the wind if I bring my truck in for the vibration issue?

I have larger LT AT tires and they told me GM engineer would not look at it with the non stock size tires. My dealer actually swapped my tires back to stock size from another truck on the lot while they tested mine. In the end they blamed my tires. So yeah depending on your service department they may give you some crap about em.

Posted

I'd like to think that my tires are just not being balanced properly by the touch holes at the dealer. I am half tempted to take it to a good tire shop, let them have it for the day, see if they can fix it, and send the dealer I bought it from the bill for it.

 

Find an expert shop that can do a true road force balance. Call around and find out who is the best and which tech. There is a guy. The dealer won't pay for it either.

 

The first two weeks I took my truck to my brother which was an assistant manager at a tire shop. I watched him dismount and rebalance the tires. At slower speeds it was much smoother but at 70mph + vibration was still there. At that time I did not know what a road force balance was.

 

Then you can rule out wheels and tires.

Posted

Should have did a little more research before buying this truck but hopefully Chevy can fix it. Going to drop it off today.

I’ve driven the truck approximately 1000 miles on all types of roads. From 40 to 55 the truck resonates (vibrates), especially when decelerating, and going downhill. The more you drive (warn up the vehicle) the worse the vibration seems to get. I can feel it mostly through the steering wheel but can see the dash and center console vibrating in the truck when it’s really bad. I say resonate because it doesn’t seem to be the tires although I really can’t tell. Never had tires vibrate like this before. When driving highway speeds 60 to 75 the vibration is less noticeable (tolerable) but still happening. Almost seems like the driveshaft is out of balance or a bearing is going bad.

I've read through several reples and different sites has there been any specific cause for this problem or is it different for every truck?

 

2014 Chevrolet Silverado Z71, LT Extended Cab, 5.3L, 7k miles

 

Well got my truck back on Tuesday and pinion and ring gear were replaced along with the the tires being road forced balanced. The vibration at 40 to 55 is gone and now vibrates at 65 and up. Taking it back on Monday to redo the tires, hopefully this will fix it.

Posted

Well got my truck back on Tuesday and pinion and ring gear were replaced along with the the tires being road forced balanced. The vibration at 40 to 55 is gone and now vibrates at 65 and up. Taking it back on Monday to redo the tires, hopefully this will fix it.

Ugh

Posted

I called my sales guy today, I'm headed out of state for work Sunday, so I couldn't do anything until Wednesday or Thursday, but he said they'd exchange my truck for me if I wasn't happy... I've only put 300 miles on it, so they should exchange it. They also said they'd take the 22's off and try 18's to rule out the tires if I wanted to.. The dealer seems to be willing to work with me to make me happy and I guess I'm thankful for that. I like the wheels and tires I have though, so I'll give them one more shot to fix the one I have before I go for an exchange... I'll keep you guys updated after I see them this Wednesday about the issue.

  • Like 2
Posted

 

Well got my truck back on Tuesday and pinion and ring gear were replaced along with the the tires being road forced balanced. The vibration at 40 to 55 is gone and now vibrates at 65 and up. Taking it back on Monday to redo the tires, hopefully this will fix it.

Dont hold your breath
Posted (edited)

So far I've dealt with the vibration issue on my 15 Silverado for about 5000 miles. After the first visit about tre issue, its been a pain to get it looked at anymore. I kept pressing the issue and now after two tires being replaced, the vibration seems to be gone. I have a 400 mile weekly comute for work on the interstate. This week I felt nothing, no more console shaking, seat shaking, steering wheel vibration, etc. Keeping my fingers crossed that it's fixed!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I've dealt with the vibrations for 8500 miles now, they started at about 2k. Had the factory 20" wheels and tires road forced 4 times at 3 different shops, bought aftermarket wheels and tires went through 2 sets of rims first were raceline 18's, now on fuel 18's, 8 different toyo AT II tires to get the road force below 10 lbs on all 4 tires, still vibrates. New front struts and new rear shocks, sulastic shackles on the rear, retorqued leaf spring ubolts, resettled body mounts. Removed the front cv shafts, removed the front sway bar, rebalanced drive shaft, rephased the drive shaft 180 degrees to check runout on the pinion flange. Shimmed the rear pinion up 2 degrees, then shimmed the pinion down 2 degrees. Tried my buddys factory 17 inch wheels off his GMC. Disconnected the power steering to eliminate smooth road shake. 4,000 dollars later I still have the same vibration at the same speeds that the dealer acknowledges is there but is within GM's spec so there's nothing they can do. F*^!< GM. Couldn't eliminate the vibration. Now I'll try to figure out how to damp them or isolate them from the cab, really I just want to eliminate them from the steering wheel, the seat and console aren't too bad.

Edited by abominable z71
Posted

Dont hold your breath

 

I hate to say it but I agree. Don't give up but after they rebuilt my diff. the vibration went away. They did replace all 4 tires and new shocks so it is hard to say which one was the culprit for certain.

  • Like 1
Posted

I called my sales guy today, I'm headed out of state for work Sunday, so I couldn't do anything until Wednesday or Thursday, but he said they'd exchange my truck for me if I wasn't happy... I've only put 300 miles on it, so they should exchange it. They also said they'd take the 22's off and try 18's to rule out the tires if I wanted to.. The dealer seems to be willing to work with me to make me happy and I guess I'm thankful for that. I like the wheels and tires I have though, so I'll give them one more shot to fix the one I have before I go for an exchange... I'll keep you guys updated after I see them this Wednesday about the issue.

 

Go an drive some other trucks they have. Make sure you take that thing up to 85 and run it for say 50 miles at varing speeds. Wish I would have caught my issue sooner to do this.

Posted (edited)

Hi Guys just checking back in. My 2014 GMC Sierra CC SLT 4x4 Z71 with 20's (Michelins) now has a bit over 46k on it. The vibration is minor in mine and tolerable (to me) after i put the michelins on it but I was wondering about the fact that I have a split in the edge of the drivers side running board at the second support back. Obviously the running board takes a lot of twisting force to do this which could be an indication that it is holding the crew cab body to rigidly in place? How many of the shaker trucks have the flat running boards on them? I am thinking about taking mine off now just to test my theory but my shake is pretty minor and I am not sure if it is worth the effort. Have any of you guys that have major shaking and done basically everything else thought about trying this? Take a close look at the bottom outside edge of your flat running boards right at the supports you will probably see the hairline cracks just like I am seeing in mine? One is split badly and visible when you walk up to the truck. If I knew that they had fixed all these issues on the 2016's I would go trade I guess. Love the truck

Edited by MyFavTruck
Posted

I went on about a 2.5 hour road trip last night. The first half it actually rode great and was quite surprised. I had my girlfriend and one of her friends with me and they both said they didn't feel much other than road. I went through and toll plaza and got on it pretty hard coming out of it to get around a semi and it wasn't quite as smooth the rest of the trip, had a slight vibe. Wondering if my tires slipped on the rims some. Wishing I would have marked them before the trip.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

it baffles me that the wheels on these trucks could be slipping inside of the tires... wtf?

  • Like 2
Posted

I think someone wondered if older GMCs vibrated. I had a '13 GMC CC, before this vibrating '15. The '13 never vibed and rode like a dream.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...