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Shake or Vibration Issues

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smcgillis10 Enthusiast

smcgillis10

Posted
Posted

Driveshafts are bent and missing weights and axle shafts are out of round....watch the video's I posted.

 

RT

I've watched them. That's why I'm going to try the driveshaft, since it should be re and trued anyway. Then I'm going to get rid of this rear axle for a better one if the driveline doesn't fix it.

 

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csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

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kurt1305 Enthusiast

kurt1305

Posted
Posted

Well, damn. Tomorrow I drop my three week old 2016 Sierra 1500 SLE Crew Cab with 950 miles off for 3-5 days of evaluation for the shakes. I expected a service appointment with tire balancing or maybe even replacement. Sounds like they are going full-monty right off the bat.

 

And after four days of evaluation, they are, "going to replace at least one tire."

daleone3 Enthusiast

daleone3

Posted
Posted

Against my better judgement but looking at a 2014 regular cab short bed z71 with 30k mikes in it. No shake issues checked by GM service friend. Does anyone know of this was even an issue with shortbeds GM products ?

Thanks

 

 

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daleone3 Enthusiast

daleone3

Posted
Posted

Nevermind. Don't know what I was thinking. Knowing what we all know would be an idiot to think I could get one without a problem. Gonna find a Ram

 

 

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daleone3 Enthusiast

daleone3

Posted
Posted

good luck with the Ram.....nothing but straight problems.....

I had a 14 for a year , no issues at least nothing structural like the GM problem. Interested to hear your opinion on this

I think any new vehicle comes with issues-it's a matter of accepting those which can be fixed and this Silverado issue is sill an unknown so prefer to avoid it.

 

 

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mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

I hear what your screaming....I think the Auto trans is good to go in the RAMS but the rest honestly is suspect.....Ford or Ram/Fiat I guess is what you call it has a serious problem? It's called DURAMAX v2.0 and the C-Man can't hold a candle to it. I will take GM's powertrain any day over Ram/Fiat 80's to presently......

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

Trying to figure out my vibration every time I'm home. This time I took her out on the road made sure the vibration is still there. It was. So I went into the shop and put the stuck up on stands.

 

Got it up to speed on the stands and the vibration is still there. Since I know my driveline is not true. I had it spinning at idle and could see the wabble in the driveline. So with a marker I slowly went closer to the driveline and had it mark where the bend is highest. Put a 3" hose clamp 180* from that spot and the vibration almost went away. But is still there. Next time I'm home the driveline is getting trued and balanced. After that I'm going to swap the rear differential from a 2013 max tow truck with the old style 9.5" 14 bolt.

 

Since every truck that has this vibration had a few of the same parts and manufacturers like drivelines and this new 9.5" hybrid 12 bolt they put in.

I honestly think it's this new rear end. I've seen a lot of guys fix it with a gear swap. And if I'm going to do a gear swap I'm going to put an axle in that's proved itself already.

 

Truck specs

2014 5.3 l 4x4 crew cab 5'8" bed

6" pro Comp lift

Pro Comp add a leaf.

Air bags.

 

 

112d9d10a75ac1869e672b465e4b61ef.jpg34e142a760cb5af0b49daca6664c495e.jpg77fca7ebe46823d8f47c6b749f850b12.jpg12acdd77c92af423f676578aceeff31b.jpg

 

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I have suspicious of the new rear end as well and wondered what is involved in swapping an older style 14 bolt in its place. Going on 4 years with this rear end and no one is cutting gear sets for it, only option is OEM in 3.08,3.42 and 4.10 for the 9.5" 12 bolt unless you go with the older style gear sets and replace all the bearings, yoke, carrier and add a spacer for the diff cover. It seems like something isn't right with this axle. Maybe the aftermarket just doesn't want to invest money in tooling when you can use the old stuff with some modifications. Sucks the only way to get 3.73 or 4.56 gears is to adapt the rear end for old parts. New limited slip carrier and everything else adds a lot of cost for a simple ratio change.

  • Like 1
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

Nevermind. Don't know what I was thinking. Knowing what we all know would be an idiot to think I could get one without a problem. Gonna find a Ram

 

 

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The RAM is a nice truck, but it doesn't hold its value worth sh*t, I think that the driveline if pretty good, but like many, I don't trust the body, RAM/Dodge/Chrysler is know for rusting. Ultimately you need to do what will make you happy. I went FERD, but also considered Toyota. Like I said, just make yourself and your wallet happy. My wallet was crying its sorrow away after the purchase, but I was happy :)

daleone3 Enthusiast

daleone3

Posted
Posted

The RAM is a nice truck, but it doesn't hold its value worth sh*t, I think that the driveline if pretty good, but like many, I don't trust the body, RAM/Dodge/Chrysler is know for rusting. Ultimately you need to do what will make you happy. I went FERD, but also considered Toyota. Like I said, just make yourself and your wallet happy. My wallet was crying its sorrow away after the purchase, but I was happy :)

You are 100% right on the ram having potential for rust issues, that was a big reason I got rid of my 2014, the way the inner fender well on the bed is designed is just a hotbed for debris and moisture. I actually looked at a 2013 short bed and might be doing that deal, it is a one owner Z 71 package leather, tonneau cover, definitely looks like it was owned by an older gentleman. Feel more comfortable buying it when you're older truck with low miles, 26,000 versus buying a 2014 which could have potential for the shake. I have a 2006 extended cab Silverado with 140k on it but have some issues that are starting to creep which are going to be expensive, should still be able to get $9000 out of that and put it towards something else. With the ram, the risk of rust is far greater than on a GM product, my 2006 has zero rust, not sure why because I live in the Northeast but I always kept it clean during the winter times. Thanks for responding, this is a great thread and a great group of people (generally)

 

 

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  • Like 1
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

I forgot about the resale value Dodge/Ram never shinned in that category either! But who holds their trucks long anyways.....Do what makes your wallet and self happy!

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

Trying to figure out my vibration every time I'm home. This time I took her out on the road made sure the vibration is still there. It was. So I went into the shop and put the stuck up on stands.

 

Got it up to speed on the stands and the vibration is still there. Since I know my driveline is not true. I had it spinning at idle and could see the wabble in the driveline. So with a marker I slowly went closer to the driveline and had it mark where the bend is highest. Put a 3" hose clamp 180* from that spot and the vibration almost went away. But is still there. Next time I'm home the driveline is getting trued and balanced. After that I'm going to swap the rear differential from a 2013 max tow truck with the old style 9.5" 14 bolt.

 

Since every truck that has this vibration had a few of the same parts and manufacturers like drivelines and this new 9.5" hybrid 12 bolt they put in.

I honestly think it's this new rear end. I've seen a lot of guys fix it with a gear swap. And if I'm going to do a gear swap I'm going to put an axle in that's proved itself already.

 

Truck specs

2014 5.3 l 4x4 crew cab 5'8" bed

6" pro Comp lift

Pro Comp add a leaf.

Air bags.

 

 

112d9d10a75ac1869e672b465e4b61ef.jpg34e142a760cb5af0b49daca6664c495e.jpg77fca7ebe46823d8f47c6b749f850b12.jpg12acdd77c92af423f676578aceeff31b.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I have suspicious of the new rear end as well and wondered what is involved in swapping an older style 14 bolt in its place. Going on 4 years with this rear end and no one is cutting gear sets for it, only option is OEM in 3.08,3.42 and 4.10 for the 9.5" 12 bolt unless you go with the older style gear sets and replace all the bearings, yoke, carrier and add a spacer for the diff cover. It seems like something isn't right with this axle. Maybe the aftermarket just doesn't want to invest money in tooling when you can use the old stuff with some modifications. Sucks the only way to get 3.73 or 4.56 gears is to adapt the rear end for old parts. New limited slip carrier and everything else adds a lot of cost for a simple ratio change.

rilcoat Enthusiast

rilcoat

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 2015 regular cab developed a vibration in the steering wheel at 115 kph at around 7000 kms. I took to dealer and they rebalanced all tires and sent me away. The vibration then started through the whole truck. Since then there has been 4 more visits leaving the truck for a total of 9 days, multiple road force balances, pico meter tests, two new tires, and a total of 2500 kms put on the truck from me and the dealership over 3 months. The dealership also damaged one rim and I forced them to replace with a new one.

 

At the end they asked me not to come back anymore.

 

On Christmas eve I decided to swap my wheels and tires with another Silverado 1500. When I went to remove my wheels I noticed the lug nut were not torqued very tight. I checked and the Morons only torqued to 85 ft/lbs. I torqued to 140 ft/lbs as per manual and my truck has no vibration.

 

All this time, they could have done serious damage to my truck or even killed me and my family.

 

I have spoken to GM Canada with no results except "I'm sorry to hear that" and spoke to owner of the dealership, and nothing done there either.

 

This is my last product from GM. No support

 

PLEASE CHECK YOUR LUG NUT TORQUE.

Edited by rilcoat
  • Like 1
WLC Enthusiast

WLC

Posted
Posted

My 2015 regular cab developed a vibration in the steering wheel at 115 kph at around 7000 kms. I took to dealer and they rebalanced all tires and sent me away. The vibration then started through the whole truck. Since then there has been 4 more visits leaving the truck for a total of 9 days, multiple road force balances, pico meter tests, two new tires, and a total of 2500 kms put on the truck from me and the dealership over 3 months. The dealership also damaged one rim and I forced them to replace with a new one.

 

At the end they asked me not to come back anymore.

 

On Christmas eve I decided to swap my wheels and tires with another Silverado 1500. When I went to remove my wheels I noticed the lug nut were not torqued very tight. I checked and the Morons only torqued to 85 ft/lbs. I torqued to 140 ft/lbs as per manual and my truck has no vibration.

 

All this time, they could have done serious damage to my truck or even killed me and my family.

 

I have spoken to GM Canada with no results except "I'm sorry to hear that" and spoke to owner of the dealership, and nothing done there either.

 

This is my last product from GM. No support

 

PLEASE CHECK YOUR LUG NUT TORQUE.

Did you jack the truck up? Many reported vibs went away for a short time after jacking the truck up or rotating tires. Only to return later on.

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